Morepower it is an exhaustive work but It did work with this one as the following were relooked prior to programming the piggyback ECU such as Custom charged pipe with Bypass Valve flanges, Mass flow Meter or MAF adaptor,
Vortech Maxflow Adjustable Bypass Valve (BV). What one needs to to do is install at Stage II kits which is available easily off the shelfs with larger intercoolers ensure to have atleast 10psi and larger injectors to this engine Dyno needs to recoiled with better amp rating.. The 10 psi intercooled kits will require slightly larger injectors. The stock fuel should able to supply enough fuel for the 10 psi. The larger injectors will be compensated by the OEM ECU. Stock injector are around 190cc/min. this will have to be upgraded to 295 cc/min. The piggy back ECU can compensate up to 50% reduction. The rule is ECU picks up faulty codes, ECU will generally output fault codes for speed sensor and exhaust sensor if they are not connected (however, the engines run fine without these sensors).The vast majority of engines have the wiring loom snipped at the firewall, and often as not where the AFM and igniter sub loom peels off towards the side/rear of the RH head as well. The main loom has around 80 wires in it; to run as a manual trans set up you need about 30 of these wires. Provided you have the right diagram it becomes a case of tracing each wire on the engine and then splicing it to the patch loom correctly to suit the ECU. You must ensure you use screened wire for the cam angle, RPM, exhaust and knock sensors. The good news is that the on-engine sensors are the same irrespective of the donor vehicle The bad news is that the plug locking catches get very brittle and tend to break off, so try not to remove plugs unless you have to, to check continuity etc.
He has used standard 30 amp accessory relays for EFI Main Relay, Injection Relay and Starter Solenoid Relay, plus a factory circuit open fuel pump control relay And has used 5 fuses, which are EFI and Injection at 20 amps each, plus 7.5 Amps for Charge, start relay trigger and Ignition trigger for the Injection Relay. By doing this the car power feeds can all come directly from the battery and all one need is some 5 amp rated 7-core trailer flex for ‘start’ and ‘run’ trigger signals from the ignition switch.
From what i have seen the pathy generally the V6 uses a sensor on the back of the trans as the primary speed signal, however, this signal is processed by the ABS system and then output to the ECU. Therefore, if you don’t have the ABS system this will not work.
I have to say this the mods carried were enormous, such as Idle speed controller, ECU , diagnostics, wirings , Alternator, Ignition Systems, Airflow meter, Trac control,sparkplugs, cam belts,exhaust manifold and systems. This collegeau of mine is a Aircraft Avionics specialist, and he keeps doing this mods on his chevy, Lastl but not the least To be honest, I would recommend ensuring any Sparky you intend using has either done the job before or has demonstrable suitable experience. Rule of thumb, tidy work is good, untidy is bad. Last thing you need is to take someone on who sounds too cheap to be true, that ends up experimenting with your vehicle to figure out how to do it, with the risk that it never quite runs right (if at all). To say nothing of what ends up being an open ended chequebook…
Vortech Maxflow Adjustable Bypass Valve (BV). What one needs to to do is install at Stage II kits which is available easily off the shelfs with larger intercoolers ensure to have atleast 10psi and larger injectors to this engine Dyno needs to recoiled with better amp rating.. The 10 psi intercooled kits will require slightly larger injectors. The stock fuel should able to supply enough fuel for the 10 psi. The larger injectors will be compensated by the OEM ECU. Stock injector are around 190cc/min. this will have to be upgraded to 295 cc/min. The piggy back ECU can compensate up to 50% reduction. The rule is ECU picks up faulty codes, ECU will generally output fault codes for speed sensor and exhaust sensor if they are not connected (however, the engines run fine without these sensors).The vast majority of engines have the wiring loom snipped at the firewall, and often as not where the AFM and igniter sub loom peels off towards the side/rear of the RH head as well. The main loom has around 80 wires in it; to run as a manual trans set up you need about 30 of these wires. Provided you have the right diagram it becomes a case of tracing each wire on the engine and then splicing it to the patch loom correctly to suit the ECU. You must ensure you use screened wire for the cam angle, RPM, exhaust and knock sensors. The good news is that the on-engine sensors are the same irrespective of the donor vehicle The bad news is that the plug locking catches get very brittle and tend to break off, so try not to remove plugs unless you have to, to check continuity etc.
He has used standard 30 amp accessory relays for EFI Main Relay, Injection Relay and Starter Solenoid Relay, plus a factory circuit open fuel pump control relay And has used 5 fuses, which are EFI and Injection at 20 amps each, plus 7.5 Amps for Charge, start relay trigger and Ignition trigger for the Injection Relay. By doing this the car power feeds can all come directly from the battery and all one need is some 5 amp rated 7-core trailer flex for ‘start’ and ‘run’ trigger signals from the ignition switch.
From what i have seen the pathy generally the V6 uses a sensor on the back of the trans as the primary speed signal, however, this signal is processed by the ABS system and then output to the ECU. Therefore, if you don’t have the ABS system this will not work.
I have to say this the mods carried were enormous, such as Idle speed controller, ECU , diagnostics, wirings , Alternator, Ignition Systems, Airflow meter, Trac control,sparkplugs, cam belts,exhaust manifold and systems. This collegeau of mine is a Aircraft Avionics specialist, and he keeps doing this mods on his chevy, Lastl but not the least To be honest, I would recommend ensuring any Sparky you intend using has either done the job before or has demonstrable suitable experience. Rule of thumb, tidy work is good, untidy is bad. Last thing you need is to take someone on who sounds too cheap to be true, that ends up experimenting with your vehicle to figure out how to do it, with the risk that it never quite runs right (if at all). To say nothing of what ends up being an open ended chequebook…