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Morepower it is an exhaustive work but It did work with this one as the following were relooked prior to programming the piggyback ECU such as Custom charged pipe with Bypass Valve flanges, Mass flow Meter or MAF adaptor,
Vortech Maxflow Adjustable Bypass Valve (BV). What one needs to to do is install at Stage II kits which is available easily off the shelfs with larger intercoolers ensure to have atleast 10psi and larger injectors to this engine Dyno needs to recoiled with better amp rating.. The 10 psi intercooled kits will require slightly larger injectors. The stock fuel should able to supply enough fuel for the 10 psi. The larger injectors will be compensated by the OEM ECU. Stock injector are around 190cc/min. this will have to be upgraded to 295 cc/min. The piggy back ECU can compensate up to 50% reduction. The rule is ECU picks up faulty codes, ECU will generally output fault codes for speed sensor and exhaust sensor if they are not connected (however, the engines run fine without these sensors).The vast majority of engines have the wiring loom snipped at the firewall, and often as not where the AFM and igniter sub loom peels off towards the side/rear of the RH head as well. The main loom has around 80 wires in it; to run as a manual trans set up you need about 30 of these wires. Provided you have the right diagram it becomes a case of tracing each wire on the engine and then splicing it to the patch loom correctly to suit the ECU. You must ensure you use screened wire for the cam angle, RPM, exhaust and knock sensors. The good news is that the on-engine sensors are the same irrespective of the donor vehicle The bad news is that the plug locking catches get very brittle and tend to break off, so try not to remove plugs unless you have to, to check continuity etc.
He has used standard 30 amp accessory relays for EFI Main Relay, Injection Relay and Starter Solenoid Relay, plus a factory circuit open fuel pump control relay And has used 5 fuses, which are EFI and Injection at 20 amps each, plus 7.5 Amps for Charge, start relay trigger and Ignition trigger for the Injection Relay. By doing this the car power feeds can all come directly from the battery and all one need is some 5 amp rated 7-core trailer flex for ‘start’ and ‘run’ trigger signals from the ignition switch.
From what i have seen the pathy generally the V6 uses a sensor on the back of the trans as the primary speed signal, however, this signal is processed by the ABS system and then output to the ECU. Therefore, if you don’t have the ABS system this will not work.

I have to say this the mods carried were enormous, such as Idle speed controller, ECU , diagnostics, wirings , Alternator, Ignition Systems, Airflow meter, Trac control,sparkplugs, cam belts,exhaust manifold and systems. This collegeau of mine is a Aircraft Avionics specialist, and he keeps doing this mods on his chevy, Lastl but not the least To be honest, I would recommend ensuring any Sparky you intend using has either done the job before or has demonstrable suitable experience. Rule of thumb, tidy work is good, untidy is bad. Last thing you need is to take someone on who sounds too cheap to be true, that ends up experimenting with your vehicle to figure out how to do it, with the risk that it never quite runs right (if at all). To say nothing of what ends up being an open ended chequebook…
 

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mann777 said:
Morepower it is an exhaustive work but It did work with this one as the following were relooked prior to programming the piggyback ECU such as Custom charged pipe with Bypass Valve flanges, Mass flow Meter or MAF adaptor,
Vortech Maxflow Adjustable Bypass Valve (BV). What one needs to to do is install at Stage II kits which is available easily off the shelfs with larger intercoolers ensure to have atleast 10psi and larger injectors to this engine Dyno needs to recoiled with better amp rating.. The 10 psi intercooled kits will require slightly larger injectors. The stock fuel should able to supply enough fuel for the 10 psi. The larger injectors will be compensated by the OEM ECU. Stock injector are around 190cc/min. this will have to be upgraded to 295 cc/min. The piggy back ECU can compensate up to 50% reduction. The rule is ECU picks up faulty codes, ECU will generally output fault codes for speed sensor and exhaust sensor if they are not connected (however, the engines run fine without these sensors).The vast majority of engines have the wiring loom snipped at the firewall, and often as not where the AFM and igniter sub loom peels off towards the side/rear of the RH head as well. The main loom has around 80 wires in it; to run as a manual trans set up you need about 30 of these wires. Provided you have the right diagram it becomes a case of tracing each wire on the engine and then splicing it to the patch loom correctly to suit the ECU. You must ensure you use screened wire for the cam angle, RPM, exhaust and knock sensors. The good news is that the on-engine sensors are the same irrespective of the donor vehicle The bad news is that the plug locking catches get very brittle and tend to break off, so try not to remove plugs unless you have to, to check continuity etc.
He has used standard 30 amp accessory relays for EFI Main Relay, Injection Relay and Starter Solenoid Relay, plus a factory circuit open fuel pump control relay And has used 5 fuses, which are EFI and Injection at 20 amps each, plus 7.5 Amps for Charge, start relay trigger and Ignition trigger for the Injection Relay. By doing this the car power feeds can all come directly from the battery and all one need is some 5 amp rated 7-core trailer flex for ‘start’ and ‘run’ trigger signals from the ignition switch.
From what i have seen the pathy generally the V6 uses a sensor on the back of the trans as the primary speed signal, however, this signal is processed by the ABS system and then output to the ECU. Therefore, if you don’t have the ABS system this will not work.

I have to say this the mods carried were enormous, such as Idle speed controller, ECU , diagnostics, wirings , Alternator, Ignition Systems, Airflow meter, Trac control,sparkplugs, cam belts,exhaust manifold and systems. This collegeau of mine is a Aircraft Avionics specialist, and he keeps doing this mods on his chevy, Lastl but not the least To be honest, I would recommend ensuring any Sparky you intend using has either done the job before or has demonstrable suitable experience. Rule of thumb, tidy work is good, untidy is bad. Last thing you need is to take someone on who sounds too cheap to be true, that ends up experimenting with your vehicle to figure out how to do it, with the risk that it never quite runs right (if at all). To say nothing of what ends up being an open ended chequebook…
I don't know if you are talking about a Chevy or Nissan but this won't work well with a Nissan, you need larger injectors to run 10 psi of boost, about 440cc/min. The stock ECU won't work with these as the self learning correction factor is only 25% and this is for closed loop only, not open loop. Also if you use a interceptor type piggyback, you not only fight the self learning loop but you also place the spark map in the wrong cells for the amount of air flow seen, not good for a FA engine. If you exceed 25% correction with these tweeker boxes ala Apexi AFC et al, you go into limp home mode.

If you do a sort of piggyback on a Nissan, it must completly bypass the stock spark and fuel tuning and provide its own maps based on sensor input otherwise you will have problems.

For GM products I am ignorant on what will work.
 

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MorePOwer2 - What if any real world torque/hp gains do you think one could get by adding the Massive q45(VH45dev8) Maf and possibly Throttle body to the VG30/33E engine? I know Cobra Mustang MAF swap is popular for Turbo Charged Applications and the q45 MAF is even more massive then the later.

I'm curious though if one would c a HP gain to justify the cost with a N/A trim Nissan engine with the above mentioned massive parts?

Also, while we're on the subject of SOHC VG engines? Do you know how much HP the stock Pathfinder intake plenum can flow for boosted applications before it needs to be extrude honed?

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna end up with an AEBS Stroker kit in a VQ35de(Vq43de) for my 240sx project as I want as much displacement as possibe without going to a heavier V8 engine like the VH45de. Imagine the utter lack of turbo lag with Twin Garret *Disco Potatoes* spooled by a 4.3L VQ V6! Hell, with that kind of displacement one could easily go to 30 or later trim turbos and still have those things online and fully screaming @ under 4500K rpm. Most everything but the engine and tranny are done so I need to make up my mind. The body is all JDM Sivia bades and body parts with a gorgeous custom metallic black paint job.....totally classy!

The RB Engines are awesome but I don't know why Nissan didn't make them with more displacement?
 

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HighDesertNissan said:
MorePOwer2 - What if any real world torque/hp gains do you think one could get by adding the Massive q45(VH45dev8) Maf and possibly Throttle body to the VG30/33E engine? I know Cobra Mustang MAF swap is popular for Turbo Charged Applications and the q45 MAF is even more massive then the later.

I'm curious though if one would c a HP gain to justify the cost with a N/A trim Nissan engine with the above mentioned massive parts?

Also, while we're on the subject of SOHC VG engines? Do you know how much HP the stock Pathfinder intake plenum can flow for boosted applications before it needs to be extrude honed?

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna end up with an AEBS Stroker kit in a VQ35de(Vq43de) for my 240sx project as I want as much displacement as possibe without going to a heavier V8 engine like the VH45de. Imagine the utter lack of turbo lag with Twin Garret *Disco Potatoes* spooled by a 4.3L VQ V6! Hell, with that kind of displacement one could easily go to 30 or later trim turbos and still have those things online and fully screaming @ under 4500K rpm. Most everything but the engine and tranny are done so I need to make up my mind. The body is all JDM Sivia bades and body parts with a gorgeous custom metallic black paint job.....totally classy!

The RB Engines are awesome but I don't know why Nissan didn't make them with more displacement?
In my testing and Nissan Motorsports testing the larger TB and MAF don't make for a huge gain in power, we just got a couple of hp from the big stuff. Same thing with an Extrude hone manfiold, not much gains.

You might want to wait until the VQ35HR comes out in a few more months, this engine is much stronger and is probably deisgned to take turbo boost.

Look for a secret view of this motor in NPM's september issue.
 

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morepower2 said:
I don't know if you are talking about a Chevy or Nissan but this won't work well with a Nissan, you need larger injectors to run 10 psi of boost, about 440cc/min. The stock ECU won't work with these as the self learning correction factor is only 25% and this is for closed loop only, not open loop. Also if you use a interceptor type piggyback, you not only fight the self learning loop but you also place the spark map in the wrong cells for the amount of air flow seen, not good for a FA engine. If you exceed 25% correction with these tweeker boxes ala Apexi AFC et al, you go into limp home mode.

If you do a sort of piggyback on a Nissan, it must completly bypass the stock spark and fuel tuning and provide its own maps based on sensor input otherwise you will have problems.

For GM products I am ignorant on what will work.
For the VG30i, a SC running up to 15 psi will work fine with the stock injectors and ECU. Been done by L&P Performance in Indiana, and the stock engine Lee did the work on took the boost just fine for quite some time. He went back to NA to fine-tune the SC mounting and intake positions, though. Just so you know. ;)

Also, was there someone saying the VG30E wouldn't support more than 170 HP in stock form? *cough*BULLSHIT*cough*
 

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88pathoffroad said:
For the VG30i, a SC running up to 15 psi will work fine with the stock injectors and ECU. Been done by L&P Performance in Indiana, and the stock engine Lee did the work on took the boost just fine for quite some time. He went back to NA to fine-tune the SC mounting and intake positions, though. Just so you know. ;)

Also, was there someone saying the VG30E wouldn't support more than 170 HP in stock form? *cough*BULLSHIT*cough*
I've seen you post on their board.L&P Performance is good people from what I can tell.. They're doing the Mild PortNPolishing on my VG heads. I can't stand SuperCharged applications on sports cars because of sparatic losses but they can be great for Trucks/Suvs!

As for somone saying the VG engine can only handle 170HP..lmfao. That's the most ludacris statment I've ever heard on the net and I've heard plenty. Obviously some 13 year old had a bad copy of Need for Speed!

The VG engines are still one of the best kept tuner secrets on the planet. The VG 30's can be had for under $500 if you look hard enough. THe stock VG engines have proven to RELIABLY hold 500+crank HP on the stock engine. One just needs to have a great tune and keep detonation in check(Like any boosted application). After that HP level it's usually the ring lands that go on the pistons. If one adds Forged pistons(BRC would be my top choice by far) ARP head studs, Main studs and ROd bolts to the stock engine(all the stock VG engines have strong forged rods...they aren't Carrilo H-Beams but they can handle serious power) one can run some AWESOME power levels.

MorePower - Thanks for your response. I think you misunderstood my question or I wasn't clear enough. I'm very aware that the stock Pathfinder VG Plenum can breath some serious HP and it would surely be a waste of money to Extrude HOne the Plenum for a N/A application. I was wondering if you knew how much HP the Plenum can support for boost before the Plenum becomes a bottleneck? Unlike the RB Engienes and the SR20det, their isn't allot of aftermarket support for VG engines when it comes to high performance intake manifolds.

Peace
 

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developing power in VG30e

HighDesertNissan said:
I've seen you post on their board.L&P Performance is good people from what I can tell.. They're doing the Mild PortNPolishing on my VG heads. I can't stand SuperCharged applications on sports cars because of sparatic losses but they can be great for Trucks/Suvs!

As for somone saying the VG engine can only handle 170HP..lmfao. That's the most ludacris statment I've ever heard on the net and I've heard plenty. Obviously some 13 year old had a bad copy of Need for Speed!

The VG engines are still one of the best kept tuner secrets on the planet. The VG 30's can be had for under $500 if you look hard enough. THe stock VG engines have proven to RELIABLY hold 500+crank HP on the stock engine. One just needs to have a great tune and keep detonation in check(Like any boosted application). After that HP level it's usually the ring lands that go on the pistons. If one adds Forged pistons(BRC would be my top choice by far) ARP head studs, Main studs and ROd bolts to the stock engine(all the stock VG engines have strong forged rods...they aren't Carrilo H-Beams but they can handle serious power) one can run some AWESOME power levels.

MorePower - Thanks for your response. I think you misunderstood my question or I wasn't clear enough. I'm very aware that the stock Pathfinder VG Plenum can breath some serious HP and it would surely be a waste of money to Extrude HOne the Plenum for a N/A application. I was wondering if you knew how much HP the Plenum can support for boost before the Plenum becomes a bottleneck? Unlike the RB Engienes and the SR20det, their isn't allot of aftermarket support for VG engines when it comes to high performance intake manifolds.

Peace
I'm proud owner of 1993 Nissan Maxima with VG30e engine. I have Warspeed Y-pipe and cold air intake. I do not have Jim Wolf ECU upgrade chip yet at this time. I can not afford turbo path to more power, or the budget for it. My engine is 146k miles. I do not want to put underdrive pulley because I don't want to underdrive my accessories
 

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alexnds said:
I'm proud owner of 1993 Nissan Maxima with VG30e engine. I have Warspeed Y-pipe and cold air intake. I do not have Jim Wolf ECU upgrade chip yet at this time. I can not afford turbo path to more power, or the budget for it. My engine is 146k miles. I do not want to put underdrive pulley because I don't want to underdrive my accessories

SO are you asking what mods I or MoreSpeed would reco for a naturally aspirated VG30E builder looking for more power on a low budget? I'm very experienced but the original poster might be better suited for helping you out. Please elaborate on your goals?


MorePOwer _ now that I'm thinking about it. Have you thought about the *Morgans Cam gears* that are regarded as the best, no slip gears amongst vg lovers for squizing more power out of her? Maybe a N/A timing tweak would rock?

Also, now that I'm thinking about it? Ironic as it may be with the above poster, have you thought about lightweightpulleys? NO offense please but your surely getting more free(or substantially discounted) goodies then the majority of posters here and finding out how you can squeeze every N/A hP outta the good ole VG is surely good for everyone!!!

Not to continue to deviate off subject but after much discource amongst Nissan lovers and enginees I've gone back(ironic again) to my OG plans of a VG engine for my twin turbo powered 240sx/S14 sick ass hp project. Here's the bottom line....

Yeah, the Rb engine is great ....yadda yadda , bragging rights and I'd give my left leg for a Skyline R34 GT-R, their's a PLETHORA of after market support but the bottom line is that the Rb26dett doesn't have enough displacement for my tastes. YOu and I both know that more displacemebt ='s faster spooled larger turbos.

The IDea(even with serious cashoutlay) of an AEBS stroker kit in an overpriced VQ35de engine(that I already have) giving one a 4.3 bored, sleeved and forged engine is great but why spend the money? YOu and I both know that with proper tuning, gearing and driving that my 3.6 with excelllent chosen turbos will have the same peak as the later.

A Nissan V8 is outta the question as even the lighweight VH45de isn't cutting the mustard for my strength tastes and it's still heavier then a stroked and bored VG.

So.......

I'm going to build one of the worlds first or one of very, very few VG36ETT......I was thinking about swapping out the VG30DETT heads giving myself a vg36dett but I"m not going for insane HP anymore but sick HP with little if no lag. Hell, a these amateur tuners have these bent idealogies of SOHC being vastly inferior to DOHC when the reality is that it's all about tuned flow and properly applying your uuuhhh variables THe 3.6L of displacement will be curtosy of a JUN(oh yeah) stroker camshaft from one of their awesome but even more awesomely overpriced stroker kits(.2L added) where I did just a shaft trade, the bore willl be a vg33e engine with custom forged BRC pistons giving me 3.4L. I'll have to machine the snout for the harmonic balancer and yadda yadda but I'll have an amazing crank that can surely support insane HP. Add in a Toga HV oil pump and all ARP bolts/studs and we be rocking. I'm going to sell the rods on e-bay as I'm putting in Carrilo H-beam rods with Carr bolts! Some might say overkill but I want the best.


I'll update soon
 

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HighDesertNissan said:
SO are you asking what mods I or MoreSpeed would reco for a naturally aspirated VG30E builder looking for more power on a low budget? I'm very experienced but the original poster might be better suited for helping you out. Please elaborate on your goals?


MorePOwer _ now that I'm thinking about it. Have you thought about the *Morgans Cam gears* that are regarded as the best, no slip gears amongst vg lovers for squizing more power out of her? Maybe a N/A timing tweak would rock?

Also, now that I'm thinking about it? Ironic as it may be with the above poster, have you thought about lightweightpulleys? NO offense please but your surely getting more free(or substantially discounted) goodies then the majority of posters here and finding out how you can squeeze every N/A hP outta the good ole VG is surely good for everyone!!!

Not to continue to deviate off subject but after much discource amongst Nissan lovers and enginees I've gone back(ironic again) to my OG plans of a VG engine for my twin turbo powered 240sx/S14 sick ass hp project. Here's the bottom line....

Yeah, the Rb engine is great ....yadda yadda , bragging rights and I'd give my left leg for a Skyline R34 GT-R, their's a PLETHORA of after market support but the bottom line is that the Rb26dett doesn't have enough displacement for my tastes. YOu and I both know that more displacemebt ='s faster spooled larger turbos.

The IDea(even with serious cashoutlay) of an AEBS stroker kit in an overpriced VQ35de engine(that I already have) giving one a 4.3 bored, sleeved and forged engine is great but why spend the money? YOu and I both know that with proper tuning, gearing and driving that my 3.6 with excelllent chosen turbos will have the same peak as the later.

A Nissan V8 is outta the question as even the lighweight VH45de isn't cutting the mustard for my strength tastes and it's still heavier then a stroked and bored VG.

So.......

I'm going to build one of the worlds first or one of very, very few VG36ETT......I was thinking about swapping out the VG30DETT heads giving myself a vg36dett but I"m not going for insane HP anymore but sick HP with little if no lag. Hell, a these amateur tuners have these bent idealogies of SOHC being vastly inferior to DOHC when the reality is that it's all about tuned flow and properly applying your uuuhhh variables THe 3.6L of displacement will be curtosy of a JUN(oh yeah) stroker camshaft from one of their awesome but even more awesomely overpriced stroker kits(.2L added) where I did just a shaft trade, the bore willl be a vg33e engine with custom forged BRC pistons giving me 3.4L. I'll have to machine the snout for the harmonic balancer and yadda yadda but I'll have an amazing crank that can surely support insane HP. Add in a Toga HV oil pump and all ARP bolts/studs and we be rocking. I'm going to sell the rods on e-bay as I'm putting in Carrilo H-beam rods with Carr bolts! Some might say overkill but I want the best.


I'll update soon
The DETT heads won't fit, they are 4 bolt instead of 5 bolt. Castillo can modfy your crank for a fraction of a JUN crank. Its probably better to start with a DETT crank like we did. Casitllo cranks are really strong.

Steve Mitchells VG34ET made 579 whp and 599 lb/ft of torque. It has almost no turbo lag with a big GT40 turbo.
 

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Thanks guys for all the great info. I want to stick to naturally aspirated application. I know the VG30e engine is capable of alot of power, and have been made to be very powerful cars. I'm thinking of following: MSD ignition box to increase hotness of the spark. Timing change to improve things a bit further, with premium gas of course, and perhaps a fuel pressure regulator added in? I want to go from about 165HP to about 230 HP, naturally aspirated. What do you think is the right combo for this sort of thing? Can you please send me URL links for the parts required? Much thanks in advance. You guys are advanced engine builders compared to me. I want streetable power level, not insane racing power in the 500+HP range.
 

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alexnds said:
Thanks guys for all the great info. I want to stick to naturally aspirated application. I know the VG30e engine is capable of alot of power, and have been made to be very powerful cars. I'm thinking of following: MSD ignition box to increase hotness of the spark. Timing change to improve things a bit further, with premium gas of course, and perhaps a fuel pressure regulator added in? I want to go from about 165HP to about 230 HP, naturally aspirated. What do you think is the right combo for this sort of thing? Can you please send me URL links for the parts required? Much thanks in advance. You guys are advanced engine builders compared to me. I want streetable power level, not insane racing power in the 500+HP range.
We are getting just that level of crank power from project pathfinder but with 87 octane. Please refer to the project pathfinder articles at NPM.
 

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alexnds said:
Thanks guys for all the great info. I want to stick to naturally aspirated application. I know the VG30e engine is capable of alot of power, and have been made to be very powerful cars. I'm thinking of following: MSD ignition box to increase hotness of the spark. Timing change to improve things a bit further, with premium gas of course, and perhaps a fuel pressure regulator added in? I want to go from about 165HP to about 230 HP, naturally aspirated. What do you think is the right combo for this sort of thing? Can you please send me URL links for the parts required? Much thanks in advance. You guys are advanced engine builders compared to me. I want streetable power level, not insane racing power in the 500+HP range.
Doesn't ask for much, does he? ;)
 

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asking for too much

88pathoffroad said:
Doesn't ask for much, does he? ;)
You don't think that going from 165 HP to 200 or maybe 230 HP is too much?
Hey, people come for advice, not sarcastic feedback. I have posted repeatedly and have posted links to motorvane.com dyno results where an additional 35 HP at the crank, over any rpm rpm range was achieved, with basic improvements in breathing,i.e: Warspeed Y-pipe and ignition timing and cold air intake. So to go from 165 to about 195 HP was not unreasonable. Some people are advanced engine builders that post, others are amateur hobby mechanics but as a whole, we have an avid interest in sharing information and helping each other. I've found the site as a whole to be full of nice guys sharing info without any sarcasm directed by anyone to anyone else.
 

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alexnds said:
I have posted repeatedly and have posted links to motorvane.com dyno results where an additional 35 HP at the crank, over any rpm rpm range was achieved, with basic improvements in breathing,i.e: Warspeed Y-pipe and ignition timing and cold air intake. So to go from 165 to about 195 HP was not unreasonable.
It sounds like a lot of power with just that. Typicaly a CAI gains about 4-6 hp on a VG, advancing the timing is good for another 4-5 hp and an exhaust is good for about 6-10. Thats 21 or so hp.
 

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i just did a mod to my pathfinder today that worked better than expected
i put manula loking hubs on the fron so it doesnt spin the drive shaft all the time
the difference is awesome
Its so much better to drive

the next thing on the list is a set of early z31 cams
i am hoping to be able to run these with out a computer change

more pwer
do you have any idea what the std z31 cams would add to my engine
i will go for a set of headers afterwards but as its a r50 no one seems to make headers for them
 

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jetski_waxhead said:
i just did a mod to my pathfinder today that worked better than expected
i put manula loking hubs on the fron so it doesnt spin the drive shaft all the time
the difference is awesome
Its so much better to drive

the next thing on the list is a set of early z31 cams
i am hoping to be able to run these with out a computer change

more pwer
do you have any idea what the std z31 cams would add to my engine
i will go for a set of headers afterwards but as its a r50 no one seems to make headers for them
Old Z31 cams do nothing unless you have a newer VG33 which has really small cams, even then the difference is too small to make much of a difference.
 

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ok thanks
i have the newer vg33 in my pathfinder

i am looking for a way to upgrade the cams and retain the std computer
i dont wish to get a lumpy idle as i drive this car every day
 

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alexnds said:
Thanks guys for all the great info. I want to stick to naturally aspirated application. I know the VG30e engine is capable of alot of power, and have been made to be very powerful cars. I'm thinking of following: MSD ignition box to increase hotness of the spark. Timing change to improve things a bit further, with premium gas of course, and perhaps a fuel pressure regulator added in? I want to go from about 165HP to about 230 HP, naturally aspirated. What do you think is the right combo for this sort of thing? Can you please send me URL links for the parts required? Much thanks in advance. You guys are advanced engine builders compared to me. I want streetable power level, not insane racing power in the 500+HP range.

Hey bro,

Here's the reality. No dis whatsoever but I'm assuming that your not rich with tons of money to burn if your driving an older Maxima. More often then not it's VERY expensive to extract serious HP from any Naturally Aspirated(n/a) engine. This rule of thumb definitely follows with the VG as one can easily c with this great thread. Just those Nissan Motor Sports#2 Cams alone are gonna run one $600.00. Nissan offers some excellent cams sold under the Nismo name that will offer a significant power increase WITHOUT any idle lope but they're still gonna run you $400-$600! Nissan never made the 3.3L V6 for transverse mounting(front wheel drive like your Maxima) so Dropping in a VG33E would be more money then it's worth as this would require significant tranny and drivetrain mods. Unless your best friend is a machinist& pro mechanic willing to work for cheap, Boring out and Building engines get's VERY expensive very fast. A JWT tuned ECU is gonna run $500+ dollars just for the basic shelf tune. You will need some sort of engine/fuel manegment over the stock ecu for any turbo application though. The Romulator is awesome with proper tuning.

The bottom line is that with your relatively low power goals you could easily build a fast *JUnkyard Turbocharged* Maxima for less then what it would cost to reach lower power levels with a built N/A engine like Project Pathfinder. THe maxima is a completely different animal then a Pahtfinder and even with 400+ crank HP you'd have little if any turbo lag.

ALso, If you invest allot of money into a Maxima VG engine your not going to have NEAR the resale value that you would with a Pathfinder (front to back- rear wheel drive) engine. If you only invested in basic bolt on's you could part out if/when your ready to sell but your not going to c much if any of your money back if you invest in machining. The VG engines for rear wheel driving mounting like those in the Pathfinders, Hardbodys and Xterras will still be popular engine swaps in 6+ years.

Check out some of the Maxima specific forums as their's weeks of great reading on turbocharging a Maxima for minimal cost.

Turbo or not, I'd HIGHLY reco that you check E-bay and abroad for some Excellent Condition *Morgans Cams gears*. The gains on a Turbo charged engine are significant in torque with lil loss of HP and even N/a gains should be worth the install and tuning.

If you buy any expensive cams have them Parkerized. THis is an ole secret of the pros. IMHO ALL performance cams should come from the factory parkerized. Cams don't break like Piston Ring lands or even rods but they do wear. Parkerizing will significantly reduce wear on your cams giving them lots of life whether you keep them or sell them.

ALmost forgot. As far as Ignition and fuel pressure regulators go. Your stock Stuff is MORE then capable of handling what you want to throw @ it whether boosted or N/a. Their's a plehtora of misinformation when it comes to aftermarket ignition systems. For most people upgrading the ignition is a bloody waste of money better spent on a nice stash of Full Synthetic oil. You wouldn't need either of the later updgrades with even 500hp and I wouldn't be suprised if you saw less then 3HP @ the wheels with an aftermarket ignition with unless your going to 700ish HP! I don't know when the Stock VG Fuel Pressure Regulators become a bottleneck but their's plenty of guys running 500+ whp on the stock units. Nissan Builds great Sh*T!

Peace and Good LUck

Morepower2 - Gratsi for the bolt info. I could have sworn that I read @ least ten examples of tuners swapping the VG30dett heads easily onto the VG30e/VG33e. I already have the Jun crankshaft.......it's gorgeous...just needs the same machine work the forged VG30dett crank needs.

Peace
 

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This is really good.

I've just bought a 1991 Terrano/Pathfinder, it's got the TD27T not a petrol engine, huals very well, works great in the sand :).

Anyway, I'll look over the project and the posts here some really good stuff here.

I've been thinking about doing up the suspension I think it's all good on my pathfinder, the socks don't sqeek etc though, I think it's dropped a little bit as the front maybe rear as well as there's not much clearance for some of the stuff under it.

What made you pick the rancho suspension? also what sort of coils did you put in the back.

No idea if you have the suspension setting changer I guess you do, but when you swapped the shocks what did you have to do about this part.
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
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2,366 Posts
zagan said:
This is really good.

I've just bought a 1991 Terrano/Pathfinder, it's got the TD27T not a petrol engine, huals very well, works great in the sand :).

Anyway, I'll look over the project and the posts here some really good stuff here.

I've been thinking about doing up the suspension I think it's all good on my pathfinder, the socks don't sqeek etc though, I think it's dropped a little bit as the front maybe rear as well as there's not much clearance for some of the stuff under it.

What made you pick the rancho suspension? also what sort of coils did you put in the back.

No idea if you have the suspension setting changer I guess you do, but when you swapped the shocks what did you have to do about this part.
If you read the article, we used Nissan Motorsports coils.
 
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