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That ain't how it works. They have the tools & knowledge & provide the service & dictate the price. If one does not like the price they can either agree to the rate & pay or go away.

Your suggestion is like waiting on your food at a restaurant for 30 minutes and telling the cook your steak should only have taken 12 minutes to cook. While i understand yuour reasoning, it solves nothing and makes you look like an ass and burns a bridge for them ever working on your stuff again.

Shops in AUS must get their tools, building, electricity, insurance, advertising and labor for free????

I 'kindly" challenged them as you call it and was told it takes a $6,000 tool that requires $200 quarterly updates. So in other words they said "don't you worry about how long it took me, I have bills to pay and if you want me to fix your car that you admit not being able to do, then you will pay what I say"
 
Mate, I'm happy if you're happy, so don't sweat it. If you are happy to pay that much, by all means....I know that I would NOT, even if that shop was the only one in the country to provide that "service"! I'd cross the border to another country and it'll still be cheaper and worth it ;)

Shops in Australia don't operate for free but they won't make a living by charging you triple for a procedure that is commonly known and can be done by any other shop with a scan tool. They would have closed down a long time ago had they been ripping people off like that.

P.S. The cook at that restaurant is not charging me by the hour for me to wait for that steak to be done, so I don't mind waiting because I paid a set price for that piece of steak which am happy with ;)
 
In life, many times things come down to who you know.

Twist it how you want, but you don't tell someone how to do their job, or how long it should take, or what it should cost unless you are training or managing them.
 
High Idle Speed

Hi All, I registered just so I could put aquick message. I have to say thank you to Canadian Bear for asking the question re cleaning the throttle body and the resultant high idle speed but most of all I would like to say a huge thank you to aussietrail for the reply about Nissan dealers resetting the idle speed!!

I have a 2.5l petrol 2005 x trail and it was holding revs a little too long so my mechanic said the throttle body can get rammed with crap so he cleaned it. After that it was idling at about 15000 and the next day started to rev itself up to 20000 and then drop back to 15000 - without the throttle pedal being touched!!! PANIC!! So the mechanic said "it'll relearn itself over the next few days or so and if it doesn't it needs a new throttle body"

Well Nissan wanted ÂŁ1300 for a new throttle body and it was really hard to find a reconditioned one for a 2.5 petrol so I Googled it and thank god your forum came up. I read the whole thread here and was so excited when aussietrail mentioned the idle reset that I called my local Nissan dealer and booked it in for yesterday - folks I can't tell you how happy I was to hear my x trail purr like a kitten again!! Took the guy 10 minutes and they didn't even charge me for it!

Thank you, thank you, thank you to nissan forum!

A very happy JudyP in ENGLAND :newbie:
 
Same procedure for a 99 Quest

Appreciate the spirit!

I also cleaned the throttle body, moved the butterfly with my fingers in order to clean the carbon - My idle is very high, with the CEL on.

Are the procedures the same for idle reset, etc for this model car? Will you please list the main steps?

thanks,
 
Hello !
GREAT THANK YOU !
You do not know how much happy I Am ! :))
You men ,from Australian X-Trail Forum safe my money,safe my nerves ,safe my car from mechanics idiots in the place I live !(Dominican Republic)
I was infront of to buy a new throttle !
And last night I registered here I saw your forum conversation and then entered in Australian X-Trail Forum ...so :)
Yes ! I made 4-5 attempts but now ...I am so Happy ! :)
THANK YOU !
 
I had to do this after checking my butterfly screws in the intake.

It took me 12 attempts. the secret is to count 1-1000, 2-1000, 3-1000, ...
It can be done. It is not impossible.. The service manual has a great graphical diagram of what needs to be done when, the position of the key, the pedal, when and how many seconds. Page 79 of the Engine control section..

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throttle chamber problem

my Nissan Tiida was giving engine light on after startup and running aroung 1 km. After checking dealer informed to change throttle chamber. They have done first cleaning and re set idle but still this same problem coming sometimes.
 
Well, I did move the butterfly in order to clean the carbon from where the butterfly finally rests. I had no idea that this would cause a hassle.

Unfortunately, because I live in the "boom province" of Alberta, nothing is cheap. Therefore, I have to pay $65 for their estimation of a "half hour job". I have tried a DIY, that I have found at this forum, but no results.

Thank you for your incite.
Where did you end up going? I know this was posted a long long time ago but maybe there’s a chance that you might know. I took mine to country hills nissan in Calgary and they were just awful. The one in Red Deer never has available spots, and everywhere else is too far for me to drive my death machine. I cleaned my throttle body and the engine light was still on but it seemed to work a little bit. I then did the “manual” relearning procedure that i’ve seen on here time before, and it almost seemed to make it worse. Did you ever end up taking it to a dealership? If so, how expensive was it
 
That ain't how it works. They have the tools & knowledge & provide the service & dictate the price. If one does not like the price they can either agree to the rate & pay or go away.

Your suggestion is like waiting on your food at a restaurant for 30 minutes and telling the cook your steak should only have taken 12 minutes to cook. While i understand yuour reasoning, it solves nothing and makes you look like an ass and burns a bridge for them ever working on your stuff again.

Shops in AUS must get their tools, building, electricity, insurance, advertising and labor for free????

I 'kindly" challenged them as you call it and was told it takes a $6,000 tool that requires $200 quarterly updates. So in other words they said "don't you worry about how long it took me, I have bills to pay and if you want me to fix your car that you admit not being able to do, then you will pay what I say"
What nonsense. You can go to Amazon (or other places probably) and buy the iCarsoft diagnostic tool that covers all Japanese cars. I bought the iCarsoft JP V2.0 (which does Japanese cars but not also Korean, a V 3.0 does that) and at Amazon Canada (where I live) it is on sale now for about $225 CAD. It can do the throttle body recalibration and actually does really "understand" the codes and setups on the cars it covers, so unlike more general purpose and also less expensive diagnostic tools. The iCarsoft I believe does provide updates but the T30 hardly needs updates considering it hasn't been manufactured since 2006.
I also just don't get this obsession with cleaning the throttle butterfly or the rest of the inside surfaces of that ETC (Electric Throttle Control) unit. The air going through it is the filtered intake air and the only other upstream connection is the intake air line for the crankcase. If the engine is working correctly and serviced properly you shouldn't have crankcase fumes backing up into that line. The ETC connects to a plenum so it is a fair distance from the true intake manifold and the intake valves. The PCV is further along in the plenum and that is the only obvious potential source of contaminants anywhere near the ETC . If you are properly replacing the PCV valve when it fails there shouldn't be problems created by it. I did remove the ETC on my T30 and disassembled the box on the unit that contains the working bits. It's pretty simple, with a small motor (not easily gotten to) and a pair of potentiometers (one in reverse taper to the other) that gives the ECU the positional feedback for the butterfly. This unit is totally dumb, and it has no sensors of any kind connected to the actual internal, throat, of the Electric Throttle Control unit, in other words there are no fine channels to get gummed up like you find in the venturis of carburetors. In my opinion you are really being very foolish if you actually force reposition the butterfly while cleaning it because there is at least one plastic gear inside the control box and you will see if you push on the butterfly that there is a fair amount of resistance to repositioning it so you could mess things up in that critical part of the unit if you're not careful.
 
I decided to "tune-up" my X-Trail a little bit. I "recharged" my K&N air filter, vacuumed out the air filter housing, and cleaned my throttle body. Unfortunately, instead of getting better results, I now have rpm between 1400 and 1600. Before the tune-up, I was idling normally (750 rpm).

I have phoned the nearest Nissan dealership and I spoke to a tech. He told me that I have to bring my X-Trail in and have their scan tool diagnose the problem. He also said that I may have caused the ECM to lose it's ability to "idle air learn". When I cleaned my throttle body, I had to take it off of the intake manifold. But, there was a connection that I had to disconnect in order to make it easier to clean. I am going to assume that this is the "throttle position sensor".

Anyway, I put everything back together and there didn't seem to be a problem when I started my X-Trail. I had to put a few things back in the house, and when I came out I noticed that my idle was high. Not long after that, my CEL (check engine light) came on. I disconnected the battery for a good hour while I washed my X-Trail. When I reconnected the battery, the CEL didn't come back on, but the rpm are still high.

Has anyone else done this, and if so, what was your solution to solving the problem (s) before taking your X-Trail to the dealership?


Note

I have done a search, here, and nothing really pops up that pertains to the problem (s) that I am having.
According to the FSM, the No load* (in P or N position) idle speed is around 650 +/- 50 rpm. The idle speed is controlled by the ECU on most late model vehicles; there is no manual adjustment like they had on the old vehicles. If you need to bring the idle speed back to spec, there is a procedure called the "Idle Air Volume Learning" (IAVL) which is a function of ECU to learn the idle air volume that keeps the engine idle speed within the specific range. It must be performed after any of the following conditions:

• Each time the electric throttle control actuator or ECU is replaced.
• Each time the throttle body harness connectors are unplugged/replugged.
• Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
• Check Engine Light (CEL) with P0507 trouble code and high/pulsating idle.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds to reset the ECU. Do not perform the relearn procedure if the check engine light (CEL) is still on and codes related to the mass airflow sensor, manifold absolute pressure, or incorrect idle speed are found. If everything is in order, we can begin.

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TOOLS NEEDED: stopwatch or timer showing seconds.

ACCELERATOR PEDAL RELEASED POSITION LEARNING

Do not start engine in this procedure.

1. Make sure the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.

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THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING

Do not start engine in this procedure.

1. Make sure the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Make sure throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

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IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING

1. First, bring the engine/transmission to normal operating temperature, 70-100°C or 158-212°F; do this by driving on the road for not less than 30 minutes; warming up the car in the garage doesn’t cut it! Next turn off all accessories such as the air conditioning, rear window defogger, radio, and heater blower to prevent a load on the engine which would cause erroneous positioning of the throttle plate. Finally, make sure the front wheels of the vehicle are in the neutral position pointing straight ahead. We are now ready to perform the required relearn procedure.
2. Selector lever: P or N (CVT), neutral (M/T), Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle), engine coolant temperature: 70-100°C or (158-212°F), turn off all electrical powered stuff, wheels turned straight.
3. Shut off engine and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. With the foot off the brake pedal, turn ignition switch to the ON position(not START) or push ignition switch button to the ON position(two taps) and start the stopwatch at the same time.
5. When the stopwatch is at 3 seconds, press & release the accelerator pedal 5 times fully and quickly within 5 seconds.
6. Wait 7 seconds or more then fully press the accelerator pedal and hold for approximately 20 seconds or more until the CEL stops blinking and stays ON constantly.
(note: If the CEL never starts blinking, then something is not working and you'd better start over again).
7. Within 3 seconds after the CEL stays on constantly, release the accelerator pedal.
8. Immediately start the engine and let it idle. It may still likely be a high-rev/pulsating idle.
9. Let it run for no less then 20 seconds, then rev the engine a few times.
10. With the foot on the brake pedal, shift into Drive. Idle should now go down under 1000 rpm. Shift to Park or neutral again, and the car should find its regular idle speed. Operation will be normal except the CEL might still be on. It may disappear soon on its own, or you can do the following:

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EASY RESET OF CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (CEL)

1. Turn the key OFF and wait at least 10 secondsis by far the best tool around for checking out CVT's, and
2. Turn the key ON (no ignition), wait 3 seconds, then press & release the accelerator pedal 5 times fully and quickly within 5 seconds.
3. Wait 10 seconds, then fully press the accelerator.
4. After about 12 seconds, CEL should go off then start blinking. As soon as it starts blinking, release the accelerator.
5. Wait 10 seconds, then fully press the accelerator.
6. Wait 10 seconds, then fully release the accelerator.
7. Turn the key to OFF, then immediately start the engine. The CEL should now be off.

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(special note: If the IAVL fails to complete because of high idle due to other conditions, unplug one or more fuel injector harness connectors to bring down the idle speed.)

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Also If you have an Android phone, the CVTz50 app can also perform an IAVL. All you need to make it work is an ELM327 adaptor for under $20. The VeePeak VP11 is the best-cheapest one that gives you full function with CVTz50.
 
Is there anyways besides going to the dealer to reset the idle speed?
NISSAN XTRAIL T30
TROTTLE BODY IDLE RE-LEARN

REQUIREMENTS:
1 – NO ENTRIES THE ERROR MEMORY
2 – BATTERY VOLTAGE MORE THAN 12,9 V
3 – COOLANT TEMPERATURE HIGHER THAN 16°F
4 – AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION: “PARK” POSITION
5 – MANUAL GEARBOX: “NEUTRAL” POSITION
6 – DISCONNECT BATTERY FOR 30 SECONDS
7 – SWITCH OFF ALL LOADS: RADIO, AC, LIGHTS
8 – PUT THE STEERING WHEEL IN THE STRAIGHT POSITION
9 – THE IGNITION KEY TURN ON 2 SECONDS, TURN OFF 10 SECONDS
*AGAIN ON 2 SECONDS OFF 10 SECONDS
*ON AND WAIT 3 SECONDS THEN PUSH PEDAL 5 TIMES QUICKLY,
*WAIT FOR 7 SECONDS AFTER THAT PUSH AND HOLD
*WAIT FOR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BLINK OFF,
* THEN UNTILL BLINK STOP, RELEASE PEDAL,
*WAIT FOR 3 SECONDS THEN START ENGINE
10 – IF NOT SUCCESSFUL REPEAT AGAIN UNTILL SUCCESSFUL
11 – CARRY OUT RE-LEARN PROCESS
 
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