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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to "tune-up" my X-Trail a little bit. I "recharged" my K&N air filter, vacuumed out the air filter housing, and cleaned my throttle body. Unfortunately, instead of getting better results, I now have rpm between 1400 and 1600. Before the tune-up, I was idling normally (750 rpm).

I have phoned the nearest Nissan dealership and I spoke to a tech. He told me that I have to bring my X-Trail in and have their scan tool diagnose the problem. He also said that I may have caused the ECM to lose it's ability to "idle air learn". When I cleaned my throttle body, I had to take it off of the intake manifold. But, there was a connection that I had to disconnect in order to make it easier to clean. I am going to assume that this is the "throttle position sensor".

Anyway, I put everything back together and there didn't seem to be a problem when I started my X-Trail. I had to put a few things back in the house, and when I came out I noticed that my idle was high. Not long after that, my CEL (check engine light) came on. I disconnected the battery for a good hour while I washed my X-Trail. When I reconnected the battery, the CEL didn't come back on, but the rpm are still high.

Has anyone else done this, and if so, what was your solution to solving the problem (s) before taking your X-Trail to the dealership?


*Note*

I have done a search, here, and nothing really pops up that pertains to the problem (s) that I am having.
 

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XTRAIL-HOLIC
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If you removed the throttle body and touched the butterfly with your finger or cleaned it, you would have lost your idle position. It happened to me once as well and I didn't know that I wasn't supposed to touch the butterfly of the throttle body, as the idle position is electronically set. The only way to have the idle corrected now is to take it to a nearest dealer for them to do the "idle re-learn" procedure and it is a 10 minutes job that cost me $10 bucks only at my dealer.

Nothing serious and it will be back to normal again.

The check engine light will probably give you the "throttle position error" code and this will go away after the re-set.

There is a DIY idle re-set process on our Aussie forum if you wanna try that, but it is a bit complicated and it didn't work for me. I reckon it'll be easier to pay them the 10 bucks or so and have them do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I did move the butterfly in order to clean the carbon from where the butterfly finally rests. I had no idea that this would cause a hassle.

Unfortunately, because I live in the "boom province" of Alberta, nothing is cheap. Therefore, I have to pay $65 for their estimation of a "half hour job". I have tried a DIY, that I have found at this forum, but no results.

Thank you for your incite.
 

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There is a DIY idle re-set process on our Aussie forum if you wanna try that, but it is a bit complicated and it didn't work for me. I reckon it'll be easier to pay them the 10 bucks or so and have them do it.
It's a bit complicated but with patience you can do it, Don't know why but my Xty got experienced frecuent warm start up problems that I solved with the Idle re-set procedure.

A needle chronometer it's very helpful.
 

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XTRAIL-HOLIC
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It's a bit complicated but with patience you can do it, Don't know why but my Xty got experienced frecuent warm start up problems that I solved with the Idle re-set procedure.

A needle chronometer it's very helpful.
I guess so Manuel, I was only using my watch and you really need to get the timing right to the second.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
All is well now. The tech took about 3 minutes to sort out the problem with the scan tool. He thought it would be longer. Thus, he didn't charge me. Not only did I not have to pay anything, but to hear my X-Trail running normally with a clean intake is priceless.

Upon having a chat with him, he has told me that it is rare for an X-Trail to come into the shop with anything major. It is usually minor and he has only seen 3 come in during his time there. As for the Rogue, the lady that does the paperwork to enter the vehicles into their system told me that they come in quite often with tranny replacements, etc. In other words, the Rogue has many more problems at launch that the X-Trail never had. I mean, a tranny replacement after 10,000 km is a major problem. I didn't like the Rogue from the start, but to get an idea of the problems that it is having, early on, makes my dislike even stronger.

I am glad that I have my X-Trail. Besides putting the tire balance out, during some off-roading, and a quick computer fix, my X-Trail has been flawless for the 26,000 km I put on her in 9 months. Nissan should be proud of what they have made, in the X-Trail.
 

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Problem with throttle housing

Hi guys,

According to what Canadian Bear said, I have now a problem with the throttle housing. It's what our local Nissan tech said to me. I've been using my x-trail for 3 years now and I never had that kind of problem. The problem is that now I have the rpm running between 1400 and 1600. When I stop the AC and my gearbox is in the "parking position" (automatic car), instead of starting running low to 750 rpm, the rpm increase to 1600. I did nothing on my car, I just took it to our nissan dealership 1 month ago cause they had to change the bearing. Can someone tell me where can I buy the throttle housing cause they are asking me 2450 $ to change this piece. Looking forward to hearing from you, I thank you in advance.
 

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XTRAIL-HOLIC
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Hi guys,

According to what Canadian Bear said, I have now a problem with the throttle housing. It's what our local Nissan tech said to me. I've been using my x-trail for 3 years now and I never had that kind of problem. The problem is that now I have the rpm running between 1400 and 1600. When I stop the AC and my gearbox is in the "parking position" (automatic car), instead of starting running low to 750 rpm, the rpm increase to 1600. I did nothing on my car, I just took it to our nissan dealership 1 month ago cause they had to change the bearing. Can someone tell me where can I buy the throttle housing cause they are asking me 2450 $ to change this piece. Looking forward to hearing from you, I thank you in advance.

Please read the previous replies and ask your dealer to perform the idle reset. There is nothing wrong with your throttle body housing. You only lost your idle setting and this can be reset by the dealer.
 

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Hi Jalal,

I did well received your answer and I thank you. I will then bring my car to our local nissan dealer and tell them to reset the idle setting. But there's still one question I'd like to ask : how did this matter happen ? Does the idle settings can be lost without no particular manipulation?
Thanks also for the manual parts for nissan X-trail t30.

Regards,

Wibig
 

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XTRAIL-HOLIC
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Hi Jalal,
how did this matter happen ? Does the idle settings can be lost without no particular manipulation?
Regards,

Wibig
It's a good question to ask your dealer who serviced the car. :) They could have removed the throttle body to clean it and touched the butterfly with their fingers and simply forgot to reset the idle OR they cleaned the throttle body with the throttle body spray cleaner and also didn't do the idle reset.

No worries about the catalogue. You're welcome.
 

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Try this I hope it helps you






1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning".

a. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
b. Turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait at least 2 seconds.
c. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' wait at least 10 seconds.
d. Turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait at least 2 seconds.
e. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' wait at least 10 seconds.

2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .

a. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
b. Turn ignition switch 'ON'.
c. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

4. Check that all items listed under the topic 'PREPARATION' (previously mentioned) are in good order.

5. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' and wait at least 10 seconds.

6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait 3 seconds.

7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.

a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.

9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.

10. Start engine and let it idle.

11. Wait 20 seconds.

12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications. M/T: 700 ± 50 rpm (in Neutral position)
A/T: 700 ± 50 rpm (in P or N position

13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, the result will be incomplete. In this case, more test needs to be done.
 

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Ok well i tried it but i think my timing was wrong...i'm not getting the MIL to blink or even turn on

I remember a guy had put it in diagnostic mode some time ago doing something like this, is this procedure putting it in diagnostic mode?

If so i might just let him do it for me
 
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