Cheap OBD-II scanners won't generally read ABS, so if you used one you probably need a reading from a better scanner. There's almost nothing that will light the ABS lamp without throwing a code, even low brake fluid. However, with a sparky positive terminal you may very well have blown something, and if it's the CANbus driver in the ABS then the cluster will automatically light it because the ABS is absent. Trying to crank through a corroded hot terminal can result in a 200 amp (essentially 2+ kilowatts) spark, along with the concurrent high-voltage spikes that come from any air-gap discharge. Frontiers and older Pathfinders are infamous for blowing up ECM's that way, because the ECM's are so near to the battery electrically. One melted protection diode internally is all it takes. Get a scan with a CONSULT3+ or other high-end tool that can give you the whole skinny.

 

Hi - new to this forum. Sorry to ask a question if answered elsewhere. I was not able to find help in the Murano section specific to my issue. Thanks in advance to any answers.A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec, and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post (+), or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) white wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. With the negative cable (-) disconnected from the battery, measure the resistance between the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator and the battery positive (+) post; the resistance should not be greater then 0.2 Ohms. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight.

Here are how things started. A few days ago, I was a good neighbor and gave a jump to someone stranded. Shortly after the jump, I started having issues. It started when my car would not start. At first, I thought it was a dead battery. After a good neighbor helped me, I noticed that my positive terminal connector was loose. I saw sparks as I moved the connector on the terminal. The connector was tightened, but it kept sparking. (side note a few days later, after the jump, I purchased a lead sleeve at auto store and this solved my loose connection. I also cleaned the corrosion buildup)

On the display of my car, the VDC, SLIP and ABS light is on. These are the diagnostic steps I have performed.

1) Checked for code. NO CODE
2) Checked brake light fuses and ABS fuses. OK
3) Disconnected the battery. Heard if you allow the electrical system to discharge this might help clear false alerts. (I believe this is a myth and I tried it) Reconnected the battery positive first, then negative. All 3 are still lit up.

That's as far as I can proceed. My gut is telling me there was a surge that occurred because of the battery terminal post was loose.

I would be grateful if someone would provide me any additional diagnostic steps I can take. I understand that there may be wheel hub sensors and the main ABS unit that needs further testing - which will require me to jack up my car and pull the wheels. I did visually inspect the ABS sensor cables and did not notice anything of concern. But noticed a crack in my CV Joint. It never ends.

Thanks.

Just to eliminate possibilities, check the charging system. A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec, and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post (+), or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this should be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) white wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. With the negative cable (-) disconnected from the battery, measure the resistance between the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator and the battery positive (+) post; the resistance should not be greater then 0.2 Ohms. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!
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If you see a crack in the boot of a CV joint, get it replaced ASAP. If left unattended to, water get in there and in some short period of time the CV joint will fail.

 

When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory.

Rogo is right, but it's generally overcharge that causes issues. 16V will trash a Nissan CANbus unbelievably, and it's entirely possible you blew the alternator's internal regulator with the flash-bang on the plus terminal. Normal voltage on a Murano is rarely more than 14.2V but up to 15V is okay. If it's running wild at 16V+ then that's probably your culprit.

 

I should rephrase that, overvoltage is usually what causes really weird issues. Undervoltage is always problematic, but the DTC's are usually run of the mill "U" codes from components that can't hear one another.

 

Come to think of it, flash-bangs often pop fuses too. Your ABS has a pair of fusible links in the box next to the power module (IPDM), a 20A and a 30A. If one of them is popped the ABS will still communicate but won't function. Links are easy to inspect, they have clear plastic tops and can be checked with a flashlight. Make sure they're all good.

 

Another possibility: sometimes when you disconnect the battery, you can lose the memory for the steering angle sensor. Most of the time, you can drive in a straight line for a little bit and it will turn off the warning lights, but not always. There was a Nissan TSB on the issue. As mentioned, you need to get the C-codes read by a capable scan tool. If there is a code in there for the steering angle sensor, you will need to do a relearn procedure.

 

2009 Murano SL: VDC, ABS, and Slip, and sometimes BRAKE lights would randomly come on (or flash) and the car would go to limp mode. After restarting the car, sometimes it would work fine for a while. ABS scan: - U1000: CAN communication line – signal malfunction - C1130: ENGINE SIGNAL 1 - C1143: Steering Angle Sensor Circuit - C1109: Battery Voltage Abnormal Alternator test: - Sometimes, tested fine at about 14.5 v - Once the BRAKE light was on and the voltage was 13.2 v - Another time, with ABS, etc. lights on, it was variable and occasionally was 17.5 v Replacing the alternator which is very tightly located fixed the problem. I got a quote for $1400, which included removing the AC Compressor, and recharging the system. I ended up doing it myself using this video

The upper bolt is hidden behind a coolant line, a refrigerant line, and a wiring harness, in a tight space, and if I want to do it again, I will accept some coolant loss and will remove the fan. Be careful, when putting that bolt back, to not insert it at an angle, because it can damage the threads on the alternator. Apparently remanufactured alternators at auto parts stores are not reliable, I bought a new aftermarket one from Amazon for $140.

 

Thanks for the video. How long did the job take you? What mfr alternator did you buy? I would probably buy oem for this critical part. Let us know if it fails in the few years. When I first started reading your post I was thinking battery but alternator makes sense as well.

 

Sure, to be clear the video was not mine. The video said 5 hours, and for me it took more like 8 hours (on jack stands), because that one alternator upper bolt caused a lot of problems. This car had a replaced engine, so, that bolt was overtightened and already had a damaged hex head, so it took a while to come out, and when putting it back in, it damaged the threads on the new alternator. I got the OCPTY Alternators 11341 on Amazon, because it had next day delivery! I will report back if it fails.