Tried to start it today after work and it just would not. Tried with cam sensor unplugged. Plugged in. Battery dropped to 12.4 volts and I charged it up. Plugged cam sensor in and cranked it. Died first crank but I kept on it and feather the gas peddle. It finally started and looked/smelled like it was extremely rich (smoking out of the exhaust). I have new injectors coming next week just to see if maybe there’s an issue with my current ones. I’d like to get this resolved in case anyone else has issues like this.

 

Pulled apart today, replaced spark plugs. Checked the coils with multi meter. They checked out. I did notice that cylinder one injector (that was the only one, 2-3-4 were dry) was leaking from the rail and it was actually wet inside where the prongs are on the injector itself. I have new O rings coming this week and hoping this resolves the starting issue.

 

Replaced the injectors (#1 cylinder was leaking internally all in the connector pins). Pulled the fuel rail and 3/4 injector tips broke off and fell into the intake valve area. One almost dropped into the piston area because the valves were slightly open...that was a blast 🤪I also did 4 ignition coils for the fun of it.

Im still on the road to finding a solution for this starting issue. I have a new OEM cam sensor coming soon. If that doesn't resolve the issue I will be looking at the mechanical timing to verify its correctly timed.

 

I've been getting P0011 recently a lot. I've checked the wiring and it's good. Did an oil change. Replaced the VVT solenoid but it still is occurring. I definitely have a feeling of loss of power. It's not like it used to be. I'm going to check the VVT intake phaser to see if there's an issue and while I'm there do the timing chain components. I think this is the only way to get to the bottom of the starting issues.

 

A common problem with random engine shutdowns, difficult startups, rough running is a marginal camshaft position sensor (CMP) or a marginal crankshaft position sensor (CKP). Most of the time when this happens, the "check engine light" never comes on; subsequently when performing an ECU code readout, there was no fault code set. The best and cheapest fix for this situation is to replace both sensors at the same time; the reason for doing this is there is no way to determine which sensor is at fault with this type of condition.

When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $120. Inspect the harness connectors on all the sensors for any oxidation or loose connections. Insure that any water resistant connector is in good condition; if the seals have been compromised, then any water intrusion can cause intermittent problems.

Try disconnecting the CMP (cam sensor) when the engine is cold and see if it starts after a long crank. If so, it's running using the CKP (crank sensor) alone because the cam sensor has gone south. The CKP is harder to reach, but the same technique will work, disconnect it and see if the engine starts using the CMP. Both of those sensors can work intermittently at cranking speed but start working properly once the engine fires and the reluctor wheel picks up speed, so it's possible for either one to cause a no-start or hard start without the ECM declaring them "flatlined".

The P0011 shouldn't prevent a cold startup; it'll just cause running in fail-safe. Since you replaced the VVT, here are some other causes that could set the DTC:
Crankshaft position sensor (POS).
Camshaft position sensor (PHASE).
Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up portion of the camshaft.
Timing chain installation.
Foreign matter caught in the oil groove for intake valve timing control.

 

Thanks for the input. Both are new oem Nissan sensors. I've replaced the VVT solenoid as well, it has about 100 miles on it now. I did an oil change also. It definitely has lost power on the freeway and upon start up I can hear either the chain rattling or the VVT sprocket but only for a couple of seconds and it goes away. I'm going to do the timing since it has 200k on it now. I'm debating on replacing the VVT sprocket though for the intake? Do they fail often? I'm at 200k so might as well do it while I'm in there.

how would I clean the debris on the reluctor wheel attached to the camshaft? Do I have to remove that one completely out of the motor?

it does start up cold with the CMP unplugged. That's how I get it to start currently and then plug the CMP back in. Once it's warmed up and I shut it off it will start with the CMP plugged in but the p0011 code is bugging me very much. I've read that p0011 can be set if the camshaft timing is off as well? It definitely isn't smooth when idling but nothing too crazy.

 

The VVT assembly rarely fails by itself. The common causes are debris in the oil passages due to dirty oil, sludge buildup. New units run around $300. To clean debris off the reluctor wheel, you would have to remove the valve cover to get access to the wheel. A small magnet should do the trick to remove the small steel grit; a cloth soaked in acetone to pick up aluminum grit. You might want to check oil pressure due to the fact that you're hearing some chain rattling; low oil pressure has an impact on VVT operation.

 

The car was severely neglected before I got my hands on it. Very rarely oil changes and just about no maintenance. That's why I thought possibly some sludge/debris has gunked up the VVT sprocket.

I can't seem to find anything in the manuals regarding checking oil pressure operation. Am I looking in the wrong area? Possible to just remove and thread tool into oil pressure sensor location temporarily for testing purposes?

 

I can't seem to find anything in the manuals regarding checking oil pressure operation. Am I looking in the wrong area? Possible to just remove and thread tool into oil pressure sensor location temporarily for testing purposes?

You can check the pressure very easily by installing a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge. You would remove the oil sensor which is located next to the oil filter and install the mechanical oil pressure gauge in it's place; you may need to get an 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT adapter to hook up the gauge.
With the engine fully warmed up, the pressure should be as follows:
idle - at least 9 psi
2000 RPM - 29 psi

 

Great, thanks for that.

The other issue is the way my CMP is positioned. It's not in the original orientation. It has to be angled for the car to start once warmed up. Can off timing cause this issue? It just will not start with it in the normal position whether cold/hot engine. I guess I will find out once I complete the timing job if it will start normally.

 

If your CMP is not in the original OEM position then that will probably cause your starting problem.

 

Alright. I will complete the timing soon. I also burn oil so a compression test would help to see if the piston rings are good but I think it's my valve stem seals are giving out. It doesn't smoke out when driving it just burns it off. I do a lot of driving per week about 600 miles.

thanks for your guidance by the way.

 

Does anyone have the timing cover bolt specs for the mr20de? Multitude of 10mm,13mm and some 16mm.

 

Sequence is in the first diagram, torques are in the second. The second number in parenthesis is the lbs/ft value:

 

Great, thank you.

 

 

Why do I not get a p0011 code with the cam sensor unplugged? I only have p0340 with it not connected but when I connect it I get the p0011 multiple times. What should the cam sensor resistance be when checking it?

 

When the ECM throws a P0340 it stops looking at the cam angle. P0011 isn't a sensor code, it's a cam angle mismatch indicating either a hydraulic problem in the IVT phaser or a jumped chain. Stream the cam angle, it should be near 0 degrees at idle. If not, it's a jumped chain. Did you pull the fuel pump fuse and dry-crank it to build oil pressure before letting it start? If not, it's possible the chain jumped at startup.

 

I have not changed the timing chain yet. Waiting on a couple seals/gaskets. I will definitely pull the fuse and prime it when it's done. I'm having to daily drive it unfortunately it's my only vehicle at the moment but I'm trying to be very easy on it. I do think it’s probably jumped a half tooth or a tooth. It does not have much power when on the freeway or just basically acceleration.

I've replaced the VVT solenoid very recently, checked the wiring and it's good. So either jumped chain Or could the intake VVT sprocket be stuck advanced? Maybe not locking back into normal position? I have a new one to replace it when I do the timing as well.

 

Yah, it could be a phaser issue, or more likely a clogged oil passage in the timing cover or a blown o-ring between the cover and the block. That's the kind of thing you won't discover till you're in there.

 

Thanks! I will definitely check for that when I'm doing it.

 

 

It's been a while but I finally did the timing today. The timing had jumped. It was a tooth or so off the marks. Installed a new chain and tensioner as well as the oil pump chain/tensioner. I also replaced the intake VVT sprocket. I set the camshaft sensor into its normal orientation and it started right up first time. Test drove around the block. No p0340 code or p0011 anymore!

 

Sweet!