That's what it is supposed to do. It idles high until the engine warms up, then when the choke turns off the idle goes down. FI cars are setup like that too. Whn my car is cold it idles around 1400RPM, once it's warm it goes down to about 500-600RPMs. Yes I know 500 is too low and I will be adjusting it soon, should be around 700RPMs.

 

Yeah, thats what its SUPPOSED to do... Mine does it all the time, warmed up or not, everywhere, for hours on end. Its like it thinks its cold outside, but its not. Is there a Solenoid I can adjust or something? Thanks.

 

Holdup!!! I just thought of something. The Hitatchi carb is such a bitch because it DOESN'T have a choke. You are might have a faulty temperature sensor which is messing up the idle speed. Thinks it's cold when it's not. Get your hands on a Haynes manual, it will tell you how to check to make sure the sensors and computer are working properly. Yes it is a computer controlled carb.

 

I figured as much, Thanks for the info. Ive heard of people calling them "Chokeless" but I thought thats because they never worked right Guess I will hunt down a Haynes manual and start shooting wires. And who in their right mind built a car with only one V belt on the AC compressor? Has spot for another off the crank, but none on Compressor. Blows cold, but belts dont last too long....Thanks.

 

My car eats powersteering belts, and yes it's the "hopeless chokeless" Hitachi carb

BTW the Haynes manuals are not hard to find because they cover the newer B13s and the older B12s.

 

Hopeless chokeless carbs can baffle even the best techs sometimes. Here is something you can try, that WILL slow down that annoying fast idle. On the driver's side of the carb, down low on the linkage, there is a fast idle adjustment screw. It is upside down. To get at it, you must use one hand to hold the throttle all the way open, while you [first remove the rubber cap] turn the [regular headed] screw IN a few turns. This is the screw that the vacuum modulator pushes on. The further you turn it in, the lower the fast idle will be. It really saves the rod bearings in the long run, because you really don't need the cold engine to be revving at 3 grand in the morning!

 

Thank you VERY much Blown. that has slowed the Idle down quite a bit, any more and the A/C would kill it at Idle They just started a new class here for 4 Cyl cars and I was thinking seriously about making this car a full caged mini stocker, hence my name, and would LOVE to see some pics of yours! I allready have an 85 parts car now too. Thanks.

 

Keep the B11's alive!

Hello 86ministock, I'm glad my suggestions helped your idle situation. What track [and how long is it] will you be racing on? I don't know what the rules are for your class, but I'll bet they'd allow you to remove the whole A/C system. I'd get rid of any unnecessary weight. Also, if you'd like a bunch of low buck performance enhancing tips for a B11, go to: http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23964&highlight=B11+performance+tips. When you get there, you'll see that I've shared practically everything I know about making a B11 go faster. Send me a private message, and I'll email you some pics of my B11 race car. Cheers!

 

Its in Beebe Arkansas, and yes you can remove a LOT of stuff, they arent real strict on that. I would be stripping the car down to bare minimums if I decide to race it. They are strict on the cage and that your engine cant be wildly modified. I think its a 1/4 mile long, its an oval dirt track. They have a website, its: http://www.beebespeedway.com I dont use any IM stuff, so if you could send me an email (tried yours and didnt work) That would be great. Thanks.

 

BlownB310... ayayaye !!

Ive been reading the thread you wrote...
Well man... youve just impress that little guy i am... f*** i fell cheap now hahahahahhahah... i taugh id be the freakiest guy around... but you are !! CHAPEAU as we couold translate as (my hat`s off)... to you !!....

Well i just cant wait to see that from my own eyes !!