If you removed the throttle body and touched the butterfly with your finger or cleaned it, you would have lost your idle position. It happened to me once as well and I didn't know that I wasn't supposed to touch the butterfly of the throttle body, as the idle position is electronically set. The only way to have the idle corrected now is to take it to a nearest dealer for them to do the "idle re-learn" procedure and it is a 10 minutes job that cost me $10 bucks only at my dealer.

Nothing serious and it will be back to normal again.

The check engine light will probably give you the "throttle position error" code and this will go away after the re-set.

There is a DIY idle re-set process on our Aussie forum if you wanna try that, but it is a bit complicated and it didn't work for me. I reckon it'll be easier to pay them the 10 bucks or so and have them do it.

 

There is a DIY idle re-set process on our Aussie forum if you wanna try that, but it is a bit complicated and it didn't work for me. I reckon it'll be easier to pay them the 10 bucks or so and have them do it.

It's a bit complicated but with patience you can do it, Don't know why but my Xty got experienced frecuent warm start up problems that I solved with the Idle re-set procedure.

A needle chronometer it's very helpful.

 

Well, I did move the butterfly in order to clean the carbon from where the butterfly finally rests. I had no idea that this would cause a hassle.

Unfortunately, because I live in the "boom province" of Alberta, nothing is cheap. Therefore, I have to pay $65 for their estimation of a "half hour job". I have tried a DIY, that I have found at this forum, but no results.

Thank you for your incite.

 

Well, I did move the butterfly in order to clean the carbon from where the butterfly finally rests. I had no idea that this would cause a hassle.

Unfortunately, because I live in the "boom province" of Alberta, nothing is cheap. Therefore, I have to pay $65 for their estimation of a "half hour job". I have tried a DIY, that I have found at this forum, but no results.

Thank you for your incite.

Where did you end up going? I know this was posted a long long time ago but maybe there’s a chance that you might know. I took mine to country hills nissan in Calgary and they were just awful. The one in Red Deer never has available spots, and everywhere else is too far for me to drive my death machine. I cleaned my throttle body and the engine light was still on but it seemed to work a little bit. I then did the “manual” relearning procedure that i’ve seen on here time before, and it almost seemed to make it worse. Did you ever end up taking it to a dealership? If so, how expensive was it

 

Maybe that is where I went wrong. I didn't have the timing right.

 

If you're ultraprecise it's more or less easy, need to do the push pedal with some rythm, whey you see the check engine light flashing, you're inside the setting procedure, if not, start over.

I got a copy of the procedure at the trunk all the time, just in case.

 

All is well now. The tech took about 3 minutes to sort out the problem with the scan tool. He thought it would be longer. Thus, he didn't charge me. Not only did I not have to pay anything, but to hear my X-Trail running normally with a clean intake is priceless.

Upon having a chat with him, he has told me that it is rare for an X-Trail to come into the shop with anything major. It is usually minor and he has only seen 3 come in during his time there. As for the Rogue, the lady that does the paperwork to enter the vehicles into their system told me that they come in quite often with tranny replacements, etc. In other words, the Rogue has many more problems at launch that the X-Trail never had. I mean, a tranny replacement after 10,000 km is a major problem. I didn't like the Rogue from the start, but to get an idea of the problems that it is having, early on, makes my dislike even stronger.

I am glad that I have my X-Trail. Besides putting the tire balance out, during some off-roading, and a quick computer fix, my X-Trail has been flawless for the 26,000 km I put on her in 9 months. Nissan should be proud of what they have made, in the X-Trail.

 

Problem with throttle housing

Hi guys,

According to what Canadian Bear said, I have now a problem with the throttle housing. It's what our local Nissan tech said to me. I've been using my x-trail for 3 years now and I never had that kind of problem. The problem is that now I have the rpm running between 1400 and 1600. When I stop the AC and my gearbox is in the "parking position" (automatic car), instead of starting running low to 750 rpm, the rpm increase to 1600. I did nothing on my car, I just took it to our nissan dealership 1 month ago cause they had to change the bearing. Can someone tell me where can I buy the throttle housing cause they are asking me 2450 $ to change this piece. Looking forward to hearing from you, I thank you in advance.

 

Hi guys,

According to what Canadian Bear said, I have now a problem with the throttle housing. It's what our local Nissan tech said to me. I've been using my x-trail for 3 years now and I never had that kind of problem. The problem is that now I have the rpm running between 1400 and 1600. When I stop the AC and my gearbox is in the "parking position" (automatic car), instead of starting running low to 750 rpm, the rpm increase to 1600. I did nothing on my car, I just took it to our nissan dealership 1 month ago cause they had to change the bearing. Can someone tell me where can I buy the throttle housing cause they are asking me 2450 $ to change this piece. Looking forward to hearing from you, I thank you in advance.

Please read the previous replies and ask your dealer to perform the idle reset. There is nothing wrong with your throttle body housing. You only lost your idle setting and this can be reset by the dealer.

 

Hi Jalal,

I did well received your answer and I thank you. I will then bring my car to our local nissan dealer and tell them to reset the idle setting. But there's still one question I'd like to ask : how did this matter happen ? Does the idle settings can be lost without no particular manipulation?
Thanks also for the manual parts for nissan X-trail t30.

Regards,

Wibig

 

Hi Jalal,
how did this matter happen ? Does the idle settings can be lost without no particular manipulation?
Regards,

Wibig

It's a good question to ask your dealer who serviced the car. They could have removed the throttle body to clean it and touched the butterfly with their fingers and simply forgot to reset the idle OR they cleaned the throttle body with the throttle body spray cleaner and also didn't do the idle reset.

No worries about the catalogue. You're welcome.

 

Is there anyways besides going to the dealer to reset the idle speed?

 

NISSAN XTRAIL T30
TROTTLE BODY IDLE RE-LEARN​

REQUIREMENTS:
1 – NO ENTRIES THE ERROR MEMORY
2 – BATTERY VOLTAGE MORE THAN 12,9 V
3 – COOLANT TEMPERATURE HIGHER THAN 16°F
4 – AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION: “PARK” POSITION
5 – MANUAL GEARBOX: “NEUTRAL” POSITION
6 – DISCONNECT BATTERY FOR 30 SECONDS
7 – SWITCH OFF ALL LOADS: RADIO, AC, LIGHTS
8 – PUT THE STEERING WHEEL IN THE STRAIGHT POSITION
9 – THE IGNITION KEY TURN ON 2 SECONDS, TURN OFF 10 SECONDS
*AGAIN ON 2 SECONDS OFF 10 SECONDS
*ON AND WAIT 3 SECONDS THEN PUSH PEDAL 5 TIMES QUICKLY,
*WAIT FOR 7 SECONDS AFTER THAT PUSH AND HOLD
*WAIT FOR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BLINK OFF,
* THEN UNTILL BLINK STOP, RELEASE PEDAL,
*WAIT FOR 3 SECONDS THEN START ENGINE
10 – IF NOT SUCCESSFUL REPEAT AGAIN UNTILL SUCCESSFUL
11 – CARRY OUT RE-LEARN PROCESS

 

Anyone?

 

Check the Australian X-Trail Forum DIY section and you will find the DIY procedure to do the idle re-learn there.

 

Thank you very much sir!

http://www.australianxtrail.com.au/files/idle_relearn.pdf

 

You're welcome. I hope you can get it sorted.

 

Yupp i'll keep you guys updated, will try it out tomorrow

Hope i don't screw up anything

 

Try this I hope it helps you






1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning".

a. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
b. Turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait at least 2 seconds.
c. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' wait at least 10 seconds.
d. Turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait at least 2 seconds.
e. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' wait at least 10 seconds.

2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .

a. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
b. Turn ignition switch 'ON'.
c. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

4. Check that all items listed under the topic 'PREPARATION' (previously mentioned) are in good order.

5. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' and wait at least 10 seconds.

6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait 3 seconds.

7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.

a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.

9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.

10. Start engine and let it idle.

11. Wait 20 seconds.

12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications. M/T: 700 ± 50 rpm (in Neutral position)
A/T: 700 ± 50 rpm (in P or N position

13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, the result will be incomplete. In this case, more test needs to be done.

 

Ok well i tried it but i think my timing was wrong...i'm not getting the MIL to blink or even turn on

I remember a guy had put it in diagnostic mode some time ago doing something like this, is this procedure putting it in diagnostic mode?

If so i might just let him do it for me

 

Yeah, it's not easy at all and you must use a stop watch to get the timing right to the seond, otherwise it won't work.

The diagnostic ECU reader device will not re-set your idle, only Consult II used by Nissan dealers can do it.

 

Cool thanks, well i managed to get the MIL to blink, but at #9 i think i mixed up the step

What i did was release the pedal as soon as the light remained ON

I will try again in the morning and let you all know, it's almost midnight here

 

Hey well i tried the manual way and it was not working. So i went to the dealer and they hooked up their computer to it but they said it was not "accepting the relearn procedure".

I took it to another place that does computer diagnostics and they spent about 3 hours with it and they managed to relearn the idle speed.

The guy said they had to scan the entire system then remap everything from scratch. I'm not sure what he meant but i'm glad it's back to normal again.

Note to self - NEVER touch the throttle body again

 

That's a good note to make for yourself indeed

I had the same problem when I fitted the piggy back ECU and the guys touched the electronic butterfly of the throttle body and moved it with their hands. It took me 3 times of visiting them again and again for them to get the idle right and even Nissan couldn't do it. It was accepting the re-learn fine but was not holding it for long. Am glad your mechanic had the patience to do it as the last time I did mine, it took the guy close to 45 minutes of fiddling around with the settings to get it right. You might want to add your mechanic to the list of trusted ones as he sure does know what he's doing.

 

Thanks man i sure will add him to that list

I was afraid i would have had to buy a new throttle body but he assured me he would get it fixed

 

Got an '01 3.5L Pathfinder. I cleaned the throttle body and now have fast idle and CEL code P0505 "idle control system malfunction". I repeatedly tried the manual 'idle reset procedure' avail online with no luck and quess I will have to take it to the dealership service department for the Consult II reset.

Any Nissan service tech that could verify I am on the right track? Any in Bham, AL that could shadetree this for me?

 

UPDATE

well, I could never get the self-prograamming function of the idle air relearn procedure to work. I must have done it 455X, timing it, etc. What a PIA. The dealer said it's $100 to pull in in the door so I took it to a smaller shop that has done work for me, stating they had the ability to do this. I hr later at $73/hr and I was on my way. When I mentioned to them that I understood this to be a 10 minute procedure, they told me the machine to do this was $6000 with $200 quarterly updates required.

Note to self: leave the TB alone in the future.

 

What a load of bullocks from the dealers and the mechanic. The idle re-set is done while you wait and takes no longer than 10 minutes using Consult II and a cost of no more than $10 bucks!!

 

Yupp i learnt that the hard way also, the machine and software is pretty expensive, i paid around the same price to get mine done.

 

i did same thing, and pushed valve by a screw driver to clean. it lost idling point. then i went to Nissan and they recalibrate idling with consult device.

two weeks ago, car started to stall at start. i checked and found that TB was dirty again, i asked my friend to help me to turn on the iginiton and turn off. while it was adjusting TB itself, i sprayed brake pad cleaner and it worked. so it is possible to clean it without touching it. now it starts normally.

 

i sprayed brake pad cleaner and it worked.

Suggest you buy Throttle Body Cleaner and clean it properly again because the brake pad cleaner is not meant to be used to clean the TB.

 

Maybe so in Ozland... but here in Cunuckville it's by the hour.... even if it's only 10 minutes

 

It's by the hour in Australia as well, but the idle re-set and job similar to that have a fixed price because they know exactly how long it'll take them to do, so you are being ripped off.