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Discussion Starter #1
mornin'!

95HB has been a little shaky, even after having the wheels balanced (new tires).

I jacked up the front end and gave the passenger side wheel a shake (top to bottom) and can hear/feel a little play. I don't think I could measure it, but it's there. if I shake it left/right, no play.

is this an indication of worn bearings or something else? I don't hear much noise or feel anything out of the ordinary when I spin the wheel.

if it is the bearings, is this job doable with my usual tool set (ie no press)?

thanks!

john
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for that link - very helpful!

so the top-to-bottom shaking test indicates worn bearings then? how do I know they just need to be repacked?
 

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honestly, if you have the time, for what they cost just replace em'. easy job. i did mine 2 nights ago with the aid of just a treble light.
 

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Ball joints

You're right it is probably the wheel bearings but I would check the ball joint as I have had one of that vintage that had worn out the lower ball joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay, so it is definitely the bearings. I haven't done this job on this truck yet. I was reading through the process in the Haynes this morning and have a few questions and I'm hoping some of you can please help me out.

- should I replace the inner and outer bearings?
- the book says that the "bearings and racse come as a matchet set and old bearings should never be used on new races." are they saying that if I replace the bearings, I also have to replace the races? wouldn't that require a special press?

- definitely replace the grease seal with a new seal?

- book says torque adjusting nut to 27 ft lbs. is it time to buy a torque wrench or is this a fancy way of saying "hand tight" or something?

thank you very much!
 

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yes, it is best to replace both the inner and outer. do NOT use the old races, this will cause the new bearings to premature failure. they are matched. they are easy to get out 2 lb. sledge and a brass drift pin to knocked the old ones out and install the new ones. brass will not damage the races if you accidentally slip. I just tighten the nut till the rotor has resistance then back off a 1/4 turn. make sure the rotor/hub are seated all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thank you for the reply!

what is a drift pin and what size do I need?

when the shop told me it was the bearings, they said they'd just repack them. is it worth my while to just repack my bearings and try that first? if so, should I clean out the old grease before packing with new?

thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm just worried that I don't be able to deal with punching out/pressing in the races properly...I was going to attempt to do this tonight after work, but if I get stuck, I'm up a creek.

Do the outer races need to be punched/pressed, too? Unfortunately, my Haynes doesn't go into too much detail about how to do this other than saying "take it to a machine shop."
 
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