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Ive got a pickle 4 an arm
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I'd really really like to work on my car but i'm hesistant do to the fear that, living in Maine, most of the parts on my car look "salted" this includes a great number of bolts on the car. My header looks like its being held on by little spots of rust (bolts). they are almost not even there as far as being able to grip them.

just a simple task of relieving the slack on the throttle cables provided more work then i thought. the nuts wouldn't move, lots of corrosion or salt. after brushing vigorisly with a wire brush, i finally moved them. Also the nuts are as far as they can go but there is still some slack on the cable. Before i could push down almost an inch. the Cruse cable is still more slacked then the pedal cable, but fighting with those bolts left me rounding the threads in the bracket. they won't move any more.

i think i'm complaining more then anything, but if anyone knows any tricks do tell.

P.S. what the hell is that sensor thingy in the middle of the header? i'm thinking about replacing the O2 sensor due to gas mileage problems, it that it?
 

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That's the O2 sensor, yes.
 

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Sucks living up north, don't it? Although our winter wasn't as bad this past year, still suck with the TONS of salt they use.
 

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ScarCrow28 said:
I'd really really like to work on my car but i'm hesistant do to the fear that, living in Maine, most of the parts on my car look "salted" this includes a great number of bolts on the car. My header looks like its being held on by little spots of rust (bolts). they are almost not even there as far as being able to grip them.

just a simple task of relieving the slack on the throttle cables provided more work then i thought. the nuts wouldn't move, lots of corrosion or salt. after brushing vigorisly with a wire brush, i finally moved them. Also the nuts are as far as they can go but there is still some slack on the cable. Before i could push down almost an inch. the Cruse cable is still more slacked then the pedal cable, but fighting with those bolts left me rounding the threads in the bracket. they won't move any more.

i think i'm complaining more then anything, but if anyone knows any tricks do tell.

P.S. what the hell is that sensor thingy in the middle of the header? i'm thinking about replacing the O2 sensor due to gas mileage problems, it that it?
I live in NH so I feel your pain...I am about to get some really nice stuff for my car and was wondering aobut what to do for winter.. I guess for me its all about how much work I want to do. I am a tech so it looks like Ill be swapping all of the "nice" things every fall and spring. Of course some things may prove to be too much of a hassle, like say a tubo kit... I have no problem swapping suspension, wheels,exh, and brakes. But man I think I would be too lazy to swap a turbo kit.. Oh well the sacrifices we make.
 

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Move down here to Texas. It's nice and cold down here like up North but no snow during the winter, but hot as hell in the summer but not too hot as to cause detonation and pinging for advanced timing or turbo users.

There are two kinds of Texans: The kind that are born here, and the kind that get here as fast as they can. ;)
 

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I know all about your weather problem. I live in Newfoundland, the wettest, snowiest, windiest, foggiest province in Canada. We've been known to have all 4 seasons in one day. Since Newfoundland is an Island province I'm surrounded by the Atlantic ocean so moist air and salt create rappid corrosion. Also, the winter time is ridiculous with all the salt they use on the roads.
My beautiful heat shield and engine compartment spake for themselves.

I want to have one of thoses factory/ show car looks to my engine bay but it's never going to happen. Too much rust and corrosion. The lower part of the engine is flaking off rust 3mm at a time. The rest of the car is in excellent shape, only a small amount of body rust, for a 1995 B13 Sentra which were known for poor body integrity as stated in "The Lemon Aid Guide to Cars 2003."

For your rounded off bolts, try drilling a small hole in the head of the bolt and use the Crasftsman screw remover for stripped and rounded heads. Also, use lots of rust check or anti-cease spray and leave it for a while.

Greg
 

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Ive got a pickle 4 an arm
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Discussion Starter #7
you know my heat shield looks a lot like that. and the engine is slightly better. the ahhh. oh geeze, brain fart. the Nissan 16 valve spark plugs go into thingy isn't as corrosive looking.
 

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ScarCrow28 said:
you know my heat shield looks a lot like that. and the engine is slightly better. the ahhh. oh geeze, brain fart. the Nissan 16 valve spark plugs go into thingy isn't as corrosive looking.
Just to let ya know that "thingy" is the Valve Cover, you may see it shortened to VC here on the boards :)
 

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No, no, you must not ask Scott about his car. He has the "Super Secret Edition" hehe LOL
 

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Wow, I see your pain. I didn't realize this until I read your thread, and not just your reply to mine.

But if your ride is that bad -- perhaps you can use some of the stuff from Kragen that is used for removing battery corrosion... That stuff is really strong, and can put that solid rust around those bolts into a aqeous solution that you can just rinse off.

This bottle is really cheap, just give it a try in a small area on your heat shield and see if it works.

G'luck!

PS. As for preventing this...since your from up north -- that's pretty hard to do in the winter time.... But after you've cleaned it -- rinse under your car periodically to maintain it, in the long run, it'll help a lot.
 

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Well, the Valve Cover wasn't so bad looking till I decided to clean it. I was full of oil (cover was left off once) since my 3 brothers and sister who all drove this car before me didn't give care too much for it. I used a brass wire brush and Simple Green and did rinse with water. I've also tried Autosol on it and it still corrodes. It may be because I'm not driving the car. The timing chain plastic guides are worn/broke which will cost $800 CDN to fix. If I keep driving the car with the timing chain loose the camshaft and crankshaft will be out of sync causing possible damage to the cylinders. Eventually the chain will wear a hole in the side of the sproket cover which will result in $1400 CDN damage (the same price of a new but used GA16DE)

Oh What fun.... :(

My parents said they will fix it for me since they are giving me the car w/ 197,000 Kms (116,800 miles) on it.

I may paint the VC but I would rather restore it to the original condition (like it looks under the air intake hose, all nice and shiny). I would like to get it powder coated but no one in NF can do it. I wish I lived in TX or somewhere dry...I wouldn't have all this extra trouble.

Well, if anyone has an idea how to get the VC new looking let me know. I've also heard about stronger cleaners or acids that may work as well. I've heard boiling it will work but am affraid it will warp the VC.

Thx Sr20Power for your suggestions!

Greg
 

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That is one NASTY lookin engine. He should get some type of an award for that. Like the annual dirty engine of the year or somethin'. :D
 
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