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2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
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4,298 Posts
Download the Nissan Service manual from phatg20.net
Its free !!!
then see instructions (LC-20 on the 1996 FSM)
Good luck....
 

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Help on replacing water pump (GA16DE)

I just downloaded the Service Manual from phatg20.net as suggested on the previous post...

The following steps are listed:
1.Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block
2.Remove cylinder head front mounting bracket.
3.Loosen water pump pulley bolts.
4.Remove drive belts for power steering pump.
5.Remove water pump pulley
6.Remove coolant hoses from water inlet and thermostat housing.
7.Remove water pump bolts.
8.Remove water pump with thermostat housing.

The steps listed are the same on the Haynes Manual.

With these steps, I am still unable to get to the water pump. There is very little room to move around in.

Although the Haynes Manual does not instruct to do so, there is a photo of the water pump being unbolted. In this photo, it shows that the coolant reservoir tank, power steering tank (or container), and the fuse box removed. The photo also does not show the A/C lines.

I moved the coolant reservoir tank, fuse box, and the power steering fluid container out of the way so I can get to the water pump. I did not touch the a/c lines because it might release some pressure. After all this, I am still unable to get to the water pump.

Has anyone successfully removed and replace the water pump? Please let me know what additional steps I need to take. Please help..
 

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The water pump is in a very precarious place. What I did was place a block of wood between a jack and the crank pulley, unbolted the passenger side engine mount, and lightly jacked up the engine until the water pump cleared the frame rail. It makes removal and replacement much easier... but make sure to use the wood otherwise you could damage the crank pulley or crankshaft itself. Also use some light wood, so the wood has some give in it.
 

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The water pump is in a very precarious place. What I did was place a block of wood between a jack and the crank pulley, unbolted the passenger side engine mount, and lightly jacked up the engine until the water pump cleared the frame rail. It makes removal and replacement much easier... but make sure to use the wood otherwise you could damage the crank pulley or crankshaft itself. Also use some light wood, so the wood has some give in it.
i've done it like that and i have also lowered the engine and replaced the water pump from the passenger wheel well.
 

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95_200SX,

I had to replace mine this weekend and did same as you but I removed the thermostat housing and disconnected the AC lines. Without raising or lowering the engine I was able to get the WP out. I figured the freon was cheaper than my time and effort. Bad news is that I got all back together to discover that I had cracked the water outlet when tightening the lower bolt :mad:#%&@!:mad: At least I can get to it without too much trouble.
 

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Thanks for the input.

Since I bought the car w/the A/C inoperable I might just take a look at that disconnecting method.

Funny thing was I'd noticed the small radiator fluid leakage for months but it showed up dripping from bottom of A/C pump and could not trace where it originated from, just assuming it was water pump. Took 3 trips to mechanics to verify. Other 2 mechanics after extensive searching just gave up and said "don't know" and "keep an eye on it."
 

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Water Pump Replacement Done

Thanks to everyone's suggestions, I was finally able to replace the water pump...

As suggested in this post, I unbolted the engine mount and raised the engine. This gave enough clearance to access the water pump. I also had to remove the power steering container and move the fuse box to the side. This gave enough clearance to remove the water pump. It was still a challenge trying to remove the thermostat housing and the thermostat because the A/C lines got in the way, but I managed to work around it.

Since I was doing the work from above the engine, removing the clamps from the thermostat hoses was slightly difficult. This is because the screws on the clamps were facing from the bottom. But since I was replacing the hoses also, I just ended up cutting the hoses and removing them with some pliers.

I realized later that the hoses can be reached from the bottom. I could have unscrewed the thermostat hose clamps from the bottom of the car. They are located in an area just above the oil filter.

201,000 miles and counting....
Thanks again for everyone's help....
 

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Also, water pump replaced, not without some...

Also was able to loosen engine mounts and raise the engine on my '93 Sentra XE. Water pump was replaced but took this amateur about seven hours at a leisurely pace.

At one point the 75 yr old woman neighbor came out and began to tell me I was going about it all wrong and didn't have to go to such extreme measures as loosening engine mounts. She was probably getting bothered at my cursing and yelling at tight bolts and cut fingers. Hour later she came out again and actually told me she'd called HER mechanic and HE said I didn't have to loosen engine bolts, etc., etc. At that point wanted to loosen her bolts.
 

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is anyone a profesional mechanic and knows the correct way to do this? maybe there is a better way of pulling it out other than jacking up the engine. and if you take out only the passenger engine mount and jack the engine up wouldn't that put stress on the other parts of the engine?
 

· freakish poster
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^It really isn't a big deal to raise the engine. I rasied it by the oil pan (with a block of wood for "padding"). When we say raise the engine, it's only a couple of inches or so, so nothing gets really stressed.
 
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