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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I post something about belt noise. It turns out the water pump makes the noise. Although the pulley rotates without any resistance, it does make a noise like rubber scraping glass.

I read FSM, it said use "genuine liquid gasket". where can I get this?

I also found that the replacement water pump comes in with two gaskets, does this mean I don't need to apply liquid gasket?

Does the thermostat on GA16DE last long? Or it is time to replace it no matter what as it has been 10years, 68kmile.

Where to buy OEM parts? any good web site?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
get it done! but with a little problem...

Hi, guys,

I got it done in the past weekend, would like to share some experience

I bought the OEM parts from the web IanH suggested, $70+$10S/H. It is a little bit expensive, but I have saved by DIY, so won't go cheap on parts.

As a lot of ppl on this forum suggested, I raise the engine to do it. just jack up from the A/C mount [with soft wood as a cushion], remove front engine mount. the 5 bolts on pump were easy, but the 3 bolts on thermostat housing are difficult to access. you need all kinds of extensions. cleaning the surface takes the most of the time. I have to clean out the old gasket in the grooves on thermostat housing.

I noticed there is some oil sludge behind the crankshaft pulley. So I decided to change the front oil seal too. I have a electronic impact wrench from HF, taking off the 27mm bolt takes 10 seconds. the old seal is very tight, I have to scrap it.

the problem comes when I put crankshaft pulley back. I cannot tighten the bolt to 100 ft-pound torque, even with both belts tighten up. I have my friend to counter the move by inserting a bar between bolts on water pump pulley. but now the belt start to slip. finally, I use the impact wrench to tighten it with a very short blast.

Now every thing runs fine, but I have this problem left. will the pulley fall off? what is the best way to do this? I now think I could put some blue thread lock on that bolt so it won't loose.
 

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For anything like this I usually put the car into top gear and either have someone put the brakes on or have the car on ramps or the ground.
100 ft pounds isn't much when the car puts out over this and much more when you drop the clutch in a low gear !!!
 

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BTW if this comes lose it may ruin the crankshaft end !!
I scraped my Legacy because of this !!! ( No it wasn't my fault my son had the car and paid someone his MIL knew to do the clutch !!)
 

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BTW my Legacy Water Pump was $85 from Subaru about 1997 !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
For anything like this I usually put the car into top gear and either have someone put the brakes on or have the car on ramps or the ground.
100 ft pounds isn't much when the car puts out over this and much more when you drop the clutch in a low gear !!!
Mine is auto transmission. I put in "P" when doing this. I guess "P" is not enough.

I will try it this weekend because it looks like a big issue now.

My plan is to put it on "1" and have someone hold the brake pedal.

thank you, IanH!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
BTW, the car runs much much quiet now. the engine sound is much more clean as it used to be buried in noise.

I am quite happy as I did the water pump, front oil seal and idler pulley. I can use this as a prove to my wife that all the money I spent in HF did pay back.
 

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pleased you had a good result.
I dont think you can lock the engine easily with an Auto?
There must be a way, I know some cars had a locker that goes on the flywheel teeth to hold it. I will look in the FSM.
 
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