Water pump and timing belt....
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No real pointers it can be a pain at times. You might have some trouble getting the sproket off the crank. Mine was seized and I had to tap it to get a puller on it to pull it off. If it comes to that be careful the neck of the crank is weak right there and you can possibly damage or break it.
Why would I have to take the crank sproket off??? Im not going to replace any seals, the engine only has 50k on it the only reason im replacing the timing belt, because the water pump is leaking and I thought I should replace the belt at the same time....JAMESZ said:
just make sure you get the motor at top dead center. It makes it easier, so you know where the timing is when you start and that it is the same when you finish. I just got done with mine, I had to do the same thing. It was my first time and it took 6 to 8hrs total. It wasn't that bad at all.....♣300zx♣ said:
Have fun and good luck. O' get a service manual if you can it helps to.
Good advice, the only problem is, is that that engine spins quite easily. I could turn mine by hand without the crank pulley even being on it. There are 2 dots, one on the crank timing gear and one on the oil pump housing lower right side. Keep those lined up and it'll be fine.fokis02 said:
I'd read the FSM on this issue, definitely. You're supposed to pull both sets of cam followers, otherwise the cam marks will never line up with the head. I found this to be quite true. The passenger side cam in particular has some off angle force on it when the marks line up, it will spin unless you remove the followers and let it free wheel. Not necessary to do the driver side, it seems to line up ok.
Get a new tensioner when you do this. No point in not replacing it, and it's the weak point in that whole setup. It's a $35 part at most parts store, they should have it since the Nissan trucks used the same engine til 96-98 or so.
When you do the water pump, do the thermostat too. You can also get something of a performance thermostat if you use the truck one, I found a 160 degree thermostat at the parts store. $6.....
While you're in there, do yourself a favor and do the cam seals. I don't care if it has 50,000 miles on it. They aren't hard to do, they are quite cheap and it's insurance for later. Mine leaked pretty bad, the starter was covered with oil.
That's easy too. If the belt is still on, simply loosen the big bolt in the center of the cam gear. You should be able to either pull off the cam gear by hand or tap it off with a rubber hammer to the backside. If the belt is off, you may need a special tool to hold the cam gear in place, or you can use a chain wrench, but make sure to wrap the cam gear with rags quite thoroughly. I beleive there is also a rubber band type wrench along the same lines as the chain wrench.♣300zx♣ said:
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