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My steering wheel vibrates pretty bad when I brake at high speeds (higher than 50). From what I know, this is caused by warped rotors. Is there anyway I can fix this? I think I remember a friend telling me I could. Or do I have to just replace my rotors. They're cross drilled and slotted so I didn't want to go that route. OR is it something else..... :)
 

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KA24DET
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Turning the rotors

Yeah, any good shop will resurface your rotors for cheap. Call the nearest shop and see what they want. Resurfacing rotors is just as simple as putting them on a lathe and turning them, so you could probably just wait in the lobby while they do this, then ride back and slap them on your pimp ride. Good luck! BTW, love the car.
 

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You can have the rotors "turned". They are put on a lathe and resurfaced until they are true again. There is a minimum thickness specification on the edge which is used to tell if they can be safely turned.

Most auto parts stores can do this.

Lew
 

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Is the turning process the same for cross-drilled/slotted as regular blanks? The last few times I've taken rotors to get turned they ended up warping again in only 10,000 to 15,000 miles. So instead of eating the cost for new pads and rotors after that few miles I just replace my rotors when they're warped (and pads of course).
 

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NickZac said:
Read this before taking any action. Then you will have an idea what you are up against. Resurfacing will likely only last for X amount of miles and then you will have the same problem again.

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm
Regardless of the cause, the only choices are to either have the rotors resurfaced or get new ones.

Breaking in new brake pads is rarely done by the average car owner. Racing brake pads come with instructions on how to break them in. It is a process of heating up the pads so hot that they outgas. When this happens, the braking force is greatly reduced. The process is repeated until the pad no longer outgases. After the break-in, the pads exhibit much less fade in hard braking.

The factory service manual lists the allowable runout and thickness variation of the brake rotors. Runout can be measured on the car using a dial indicator, and thickness variation with a micrometer.

Lew
 

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Not Anymore.
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lshadoff said:
Regardless of the cause, the only choices are to either have the rotors resurfaced or get new ones.

Breaking in new brake pads is rarely done by the average car owner. Racing brake pads come with instructions on how to break them in. It is a process of heating up the pads so hot that they outgas. When this happens, the braking force is greatly reduced. The process is repeated until the pad no longer outgases. After the break-in, the pads exhibit much less fade in hard braking.

The factory service manual lists the allowable runout and thickness variation of the brake rotors. Runout can be measured on the car using a dial indicator, and thickness variation with a micrometer.

Lew
resurfacing the rotors could very well possibly make the problem fixed for a few thousand miles; but once the rotors wear more, then the hardened parts will not wear with the rotor and the vibration could continue. if they go the routes of getting the rotor resurfaced (this is assuming that the rotor is thick enough still to be resurfaced), i would highly reccomend finding pads with the most MINIMAL of rotor wear.
 

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98Midnight said:
Your worried about cost? :thumbdwn: This is not a radio. We're talking about B-R-A-K-E-S!!!

This is not something to cheap out on!!!
Resurfaced rotors are just as safe as new ones (so long as they are within the factory specs for thickness). They just may not last as long before they warp/get deposits enough to cause uneven braking.

I have resurfaced original rotors on my 1993 Caddy DeVille (currently 207,000 miles) which have been on over 50,000 miles and are just starting to show signs of warping. Not as long as it took the originals, but still a long time.

Lew
 
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