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Discussion Starter #1
For anyone wondering about oil selection, here's some oils that seem to do well in the VQ35DE engine:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002121#000000

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002081#000001

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002348#000002

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001922#000000

Note how the conventional Chevron Supreme and synthetic blend Schaeffer compare very well with the full synthetic oils costing double and more as much. :thumbup:
 

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And here's another:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002358

The surprising thing about this last UOA was that it shows a common oil like Pennzoil, often ridiculously maligned for leaving a waxy residue behind, :rolleyes: showing what looks like better results than the well-respected Mobil 1. :eek:

I'm not anti-Mobil 1 ... nor anti-synthetic in general but I like to point out to people that there's nothing 'magical' about the word synthetic. For modest drain intervals of 5,000 or fewer miles, a mineral oil is capable of doing just as well ... or even better than ... a synthetic.

Wear prevention in a regularly maintained vehicle is often more about the additive package than the base oil.

Note that Pennzoil has more moly than Mobil 1, but M1 has more boron than the Pennzoil. Both are very good anti-wear additives, but in this application, the oil with the more moly seems to work better.

In a different application, we might see the performances of the oils 100% switched, with the Mobil 1 coming out on top. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No problem switching types of oils. As long as the lubricant is API approved SJ, SL, SM, etc ... it will be compatible with another oil approved for gasoline-powered engines.

I have done this several times with my past three cars ... no ill effects.
 
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