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Hey I'm new here, so go easy on me. You, on the other hand, seem like an old hand, so i will not be so easy on you.

Just fyi, i have worked on jaime farrer's car since the beginning, jason hunt's 9.8 second *Street* CRX and gary gardella's methanol civic. I have been building turbo 4 cyl cars for a while now and am by no means new to this.

As for your having "your own machine and the experience to back it. " id love to see some of your work. Im sick of self proclaimed internet fabricators who have CNC mills in their kitchens and a lathe or two in their living rooms. Half of them still live with their mom anyway. We, too, have our own machines, and the experience to back it. The fastest hondas in the country are running our setups.

Now to the welding. We use a miller syncrowave TIG, yes tig not mig and its not heliarc anymore, no one uses helium, get into this century and say it with me A-R-G-O-N. We dont own a mig welder. We dont mig weld anything here and if you consider a 1/8" wide nicely colored and perfectly scalloped weld to be a hot, fat mig weld, you need to take some welding classes.

now to the price. Go out, get prices on the 2 v bands (stainless), the v band clamp, the flange, and put the cutting grinding and welding time into it, *before* opening your mouth

I mean this, go find the parts, docutment what you pay for them, and go make the part. Record exactly how long it takes to make the part and then come back to us. Thanks
 

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psshhgoesmysr20, can i see some pics of your engine bay? Here is a pic of mine.
 

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havent had a part break yet =). not one single failure.

i just measured that weld with a pair of calipers, its 142 thousandths wide, and its still nicely colored. The parts are welded inside and out, the digital camera may not have portrayed the part correctly in low resolution, but thats the truth.

im well aware of the uses of pure helium, but we are welding steel here, not copper, not aluminum. 309 rod is used.

We could have welded it on an OTC, but the syncrowave works just fine.

Now i asked for pics of your car, not your friends?

if that gold sr20 is yours, nice downpipe:



http://community.webshots.com/r1/2/44/42/28724442yZQIWMTOFW_ph.jpg
 

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fair enough, i think i may have jumped on your back. The collector you use is what is known as a clover leaf, it is simply a stamped piece of steel and does not flow like a true merge collector.

Here are our collectors. I dont feel like having this turn into another internet pissing match, i just felt the need to stand up for our products.

Our collectors are true merge collectors with well defined points. here is a pic.







 

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we can make any collector, in any length, angle or orientation you want. And its not the thin stuff like burns.
 

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heres a pic. Believe me, it wasnt my idea to run a split housing on this manifold!! The customer insisted over and over again he wanted this, so i ablidged him... it made 680 at the wheels tho so what do i know.

 

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We make the collectors oursleves, in house. literally. Everything is done here, the only thing we farm out is the head flanges. The collectors cost 289 each, and are cut anyway you specify.

The material is all schedule 40 long radius 304 weldels.

Lisa Kubos manifold was not a 4 into 1 merge like ours. It was split with cyls 1 and 4 and cyls 2 and 3, going into the split housing.
 

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got proof?

i would like to see your proof on that statement. There is a reason no one really is using them anymore, and everyone runs a 4 into 1 collector these days. The last couple of years most people were trying all sorts of different collector styles but if you see the majority of race car manifolds theyre all open 4-1s. I do agree that for the most part the split housings will work better, but that is usually on engines with 6 or more cylinders...

its just the same old 4-2-1 vs 4-1 argument.
 

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We are located in Tempe, AZ. Thats where the shop is. I started things in NJ, as thats where i live in the summer time.

Now i go back to NJ in the summer to prototype new stuff and work on a few drag cars out there.
 

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Thanks for the tip. I have spent the better part of 3 hours looking for that book and cant find any trace of it anywhere. Got any clues?? thanks tho i love finding good books

As for the theory, i understand the idea of pulse converter manifolds, but maybe the manifolds we have dealt with were somehow not properly functioning or who knows but we have yet to really see any power gains using one on the ecko drag car. It made 943 whp with the open housing and a 4-1 merge collector, but with a similar equal length manifold and the split housing it made 917 and similar torque. This was on methanol, but it should seemingly work better witht he pulse converter... ive seen simliar results on a number of other cars, look at venom they are running a shorty style manifold 8.63 and 1040 hp, jotech same thing and 890 hp, no one is running a divided housing and most everyone has tried them out.

Any ideas?

Oh and as far as camshaft choice goes, heres a weird one. Jotech goes 172mph and 8.59 on stock GSR camshafts.
on the ecko car, they are running the BIGGEST cam they can (its not vtec) and the valves are dropping so far down in the hole that they are as big as possible so that when the motor is clayed its off the clay by about 10 thousandths. After you reply to this post ill be deleting this because its not really my place to let all this info out, but this is a slow board.
 
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