160? Shit I can do it myself a lot cheaper than that. probably 1/3 the price. But it is a good Idea.
It's nice to have your own machine and the experience to back it.javierb14 said:if u can TIG up the same part of equal quality for less go ahead, but they arent the easiest piece to make.
Im not interested in the fastest hondas using your equipment, I am however interested in how much rework you have to do when your products break.As for your having "your own machine and the experience to back it. " id love to see some of your work. Im sick of self proclaimed internet fabricators who have CNC mills in their kitchens and a lathe or two in their living rooms. Half of them still live with their mom anyway. We, too, have our own machines, and the experience to back it. The fastest hondas in the country are running our setups.
Nobody uses helium anymore? Oh how wrong you are. . I come from a generation of fabricators from my father to his fater and so on, so I usually refer to TIG as heliarc., but if you want to get technical TIG is an acranym for Tungston Inert Gas, the correct technical term is GTAW.Now to the welding. We use a miller syncrowave TIG, yes tig not mig and its not heliarc anymore, no one uses helium, get into this century and say it with me A-R-G-O-N.
First off it is running too hot, and no I don't need to go back to school. You call that nicely colored? dude get your glasses cause that looks like amature hour. There is no need for a beed that wide with that set up, you say that is 1/8th in. Looks more like 3/16 1/2 inch. You are adding too much filler rod to the mix my friend, if that was TIG as you so claim. Speaking of filler rod, what type of filler rod did you use concidering the fact you combined disimular metals.We dont own a mig welder. We dont mig weld anything here and if you consider a 1/8" wide nicely colored and perfectly scalloped weld to be a hot, fat mig weld, you need to take some welding classes.
Here are the pictures you requested.now to the price. Go out, get prices on the 2 v bands (stainless), the v band clamp, the flange, and put the cutting grinding and welding time into it, *before* opening your mouth
I mean this, go find the parts, docutment what you pay for them, and go make the part. Record exactly how long it takes to make the part and then come back to us. Thanks
FFgeoff said:oh one more thing, why would you use a 8.99$ collector?
http://www.turbo-performance.com/Products/Headers/all_headers.htm, its really 8.99.
javierb14 said:here is a closeup of a charge pipe weld on my car. all of my TIG welds are of this quality.
heres a link to an extreme closeup of the same bead, large high res pic
Thanks Mike.Not to say that you are not a good fabricator, but I can vouch that the quality of Mike's stuff is pretty damn good. He is not a self-proclaimed Internet expert.
You are correct in that statement, it is a cloverleaf design. We thought about using the burns collectors, but those are too expensive, and are not recomended for our application. We designed ours to flow like a tornado effect, to aid turbo spool up.fair enough, i think i may have jumped on your back. The collector you use is what is known as a clover leaf, it is simply a stamped piece of steel and does not flow like a true merge collector.
Do you have any photos of a header welded up, where you can look up inside the collector of the manifold (like the one I showed you earlier) If so I would love to see it.FFgeoff said:we can make any collector, in any length, angle or orientation you want. And its not the thin stuff like burns.
FFgeoff said:heres a pic. Believe me, it wasnt my idea to run a split housing on this manifold!! The customer insisted over and over again he wanted this, so i ablidged him... it made 680 at the wheels tho so what do i know.