[psshhgoesmysr20]

160? Shit I can do it myself a lot cheaper than that. probably 1/3 the price. But it is a good Idea.

as the subject says...we now make adaptors for those who want to run 3" dp's and v-bands. all the info can be found at
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=320312
let me know what u guys think

 

[psshhgoesmysr20]

if u can TIG up the same part of equal quality for less go ahead, but they arent the easiest piece to make.

It's nice to have your own machine and the experience to back it.

I don't like to knock someone elses work, but that is hardley what I would call quality. From the look of that picture, it is definitely not welded with heliarc (TIG). That is a MIG job, you can tell by the fat bead. From the looks of it, he ran a little on the hot side and a little fast. These thing's are not hard to make by any means, definitely not worth 160 IMHO. Again I say that was not done for quality in mind, more like mass production.

The flange on the downpipe side seems to be welded with TIG, but it's really hard to tell in that picture, It looks more like he ran a bead on the inside of the flange instead of the outside.

 

[psshhgoesmysr20]

As for your having "your own machine and the experience to back it. " id love to see some of your work. Im sick of self proclaimed internet fabricators who have CNC mills in their kitchens and a lathe or two in their living rooms. Half of them still live with their mom anyway. We, too, have our own machines, and the experience to back it. The fastest hondas in the country are running our setups.

Im not interested in the fastest hondas using your equipment, I am however interested in how much rework you have to do when your products break.

Now to the welding. We use a miller syncrowave TIG, yes tig not mig and its not heliarc anymore, no one uses helium, get into this century and say it with me A-R-G-O-N.

Nobody uses helium anymore? Oh how wrong you are. . I come from a generation of fabricators from my father to his fater and so on, so I usually refer to TIG as heliarc., but if you want to get technical TIG is an acranym for Tungston Inert Gas, the correct technical term is GTAW.

As for Helium, helium allows for better wetting action, than argon does, Argon is very dry. Straight argon, in conjuction with voltage has the tendicy to creat dry socketing effect between the weld puddle and the parent metal. So by adding helium it helps reduce the dry socketing affect due to its heat input, and better wetting action. Running pure helium, running straight DC polarity works well with copper, and you can use pure helium running straight dc on aluminum in order to produce high quality xray welds. Hence running pure helium (heliarc welding),

You can run helium with MIG trimix which is mostly helium. Not to mention helium is a great purge. The only draw back to using helium is the cost factor, and if they don't purge the bottles properly it is easily contaminated, so you must have pure helium.

If you don't use it maybe you should. We also purge the pipes when we weld our manifolds so the inner bead looks close to the outside. You don't have that crusty rock drop through effect.

We dont own a mig welder. We dont mig weld anything here and if you consider a 1/8" wide nicely colored and perfectly scalloped weld to be a hot, fat mig weld, you need to take some welding classes.

First off it is running too hot, and no I don't need to go back to school. You call that nicely colored? dude get your glasses cause that looks like amature hour. There is no need for a beed that wide with that set up, you say that is 1/8th in. Looks more like 3/16 1/2 inch. You are adding too much filler rod to the mix my friend, if that was TIG as you so claim. Speaking of filler rod, what type of filler rod did you use concidering the fact you combined disimular metals.

We will get into your choice of welding equipment at a later time.

now to the price. Go out, get prices on the 2 v bands (stainless), the v band clamp, the flange, and put the cutting grinding and welding time into it, *before* opening your mouth

I mean this, go find the parts, docutment what you pay for them, and go make the part. Record exactly how long it takes to make the part and then come back to us. Thanks

Here are the pictures you requested.

http://community.webshots.com/album/40584205YTeolq

http://community.webshots.com/album/38587181MHQtfU

http://community.webshots.com/album/28725850qKGPjKyEaC

 

[psshhgoesmysr20]

BLANK

 

[psshhgoesmysr20]

I know you asked for pictures of my car, I'm assuming it's to see the work. So I showed you our work. As far as the 8.99 collector, Just FYI that is the same style collector recommended by Mr Corky Bell himself. It seems to me by my post that you are getting a little offensive. It seems you want to play my daddy is better than yours. Okay after going to that site you sent me, that is not even the same collector on our manifold. That collector is mild steel. Our collectors are stainless 4 into one design. I'd like to see the collector you use FF.

oh one more thing, why would you use a 8.99$ collector?

http://community.webshots.com/r1/2/59/78/28725978TJjmRQFGdN_ph.jpg

http://www.turbo-performance.com/Products/Headers/all_headers.htm, its really 8.99.

 

[psshhgoesmysr20]

That looks pretty good Javier.

here is a closeup of a charge pipe weld on my car. all of my TIG welds are of this quality.

heres a link to an extreme closeup of the same bead, large high res pic
http://www.public.asu.edu/~ramirez0/B14/TIG_weld_closeup.jpg

 

[psshhgoesmysr20]

Here you go FF photos of my engine bay

Be advised this car is still underconstruction until I get back from Europe.

 

[psshhgoesmysr20]

Not to say that you are not a good fabricator, but I can vouch that the quality of Mike's stuff is pretty damn good. He is not a self-proclaimed Internet expert.

Thanks Mike.

fair enough, i think i may have jumped on your back. The collector you use is what is known as a clover leaf, it is simply a stamped piece of steel and does not flow like a true merge collector.

You are correct in that statement, it is a cloverleaf design. We thought about using the burns collectors, but those are too expensive, and are not recomended for our application. We designed ours to flow like a tornado effect, to aid turbo spool up.

The inside definitely isn't as smooth as your collector (which is very nice btw I may have to get in contact with you on those) but it seems to work very well. The whole Idea of this design was going off of the recomendations of Corky Bell.

 

[psshhgoesmysr20]

we can make any collector, in any length, angle or orientation you want. And its not the thin stuff like burns.

Do you have any photos of a header welded up, where you can look up inside the collector of the manifold (like the one I showed you earlier) If so I would love to see it.

 

[psshhgoesmysr20]

He probably got the Idea from Lisa Kubo. Do you make those collectors yourself or do you have a supplier? What do they go for a piece? Correct me if I'm wrong, but you are using stainless weld Ls correct? If so that is a good Idea, since they are incredibly thick and have very good heat properties.

heres a pic. Believe me, it wasnt my idea to run a split housing on this manifold!! The customer insisted over and over again he wanted this, so i ablidged him... it made 680 at the wheels tho so what do i know.

 

[psshhgoesmysr20]

Re: got proof?

Where are you located Geoff?

 

[psshhgoesmysr20]

Geoff, Just curious, what Size cup are you using on your torch as well as type of tungston you used when you made that manifold? Also what was your flow rate, and travel speed? Do you utilize a turn table? How far was your tungston sticking out beyond the cup?