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Discussion Starter #1
I was going to flush the brake fluid in the clutch system this afternoon because the clutch feels like its not quite fully disengaged when the pedal is completely down.

I attached a line to the damper, cracked the bleeder, and the pedal shot to the floor and will not push any fluid to anything, i get zero fluid at the slave cylinder, the damper, anywhere.

THe pedal does not come up one bit.

ANy tips on how to fix this, I have about an hour and a half till I have to leave, with or without the truck, thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Okay, after some diagnosis I still have no solution, I bench bled the clutch master, reconnected the line, cracked the bleeder on the damper and i get nothing but a little dribble from the line. Even less at the slave cylinder.

Anyone ever had one of those damn dampers do this before???

Im going to get a custom SS braided line tomorrow and remove that damn thing, totally unnecessary!!! No cars up till the 90's had em.
 

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Did the petal come back up? If not, the return spring is out of place or broken. If it didn't come back up, the plunger in the cylinder is allready pushed forward in the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No return spring to speak of. I thought that odd as well., I was manually pulling the pedal back.

I figured it used the clutch PP as the return spring.
 

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I've never seen a wet system without a return spring for the petal. The weight of the petal alone, would cause some pressure to be applied to the cylinder, causing the clutch to wear prematurely. Plus the petal would be bouncing up and down somewhat while driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, once the pedal hits about 35% down, it actually springs forward into the floor... like theres a vacuum in the brake line system...

Ive bled clutches and brakes hundreds of times it seems, and Ive never had an issue like this...
 

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Hardbody Freak
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the system is not bled like the brakes..

you have to put a brake fluid bottle down by the slave with a hose on the bleeder screw and submergred in the brake fluid bottle (a full bottle).

then you push the pedal you crack open the bleeder valve and let it suck up what fluid it needs..
you only crack it an 1/8th and close it as soon as the pedal is all the way up..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ive never heard of that method before, worth trying, i've used the push the pedal, hold it down, crack the bleeder, close the bleeder, release the pedal method many times with success.
 

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It would seem that the brake method should work for the clutch as well.. I did it years ago on a Datsun 240 Z after I replaced the slave.. Don't remember it being any different a procedure.

Maybe a valve is stuck in the master? or something got stuck?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
And it does work, I finally got the clutch to bleed out, only after removing and bypassing the damper.

Even then it took a good while to convince the fluid to move. Seems the master is a bit small for this slave. How odd.

Used an 11" long double-female ended brake hose, looped from one hardline to the clutch side hardline, works like a charm, pedal feels much nicer now. Pedal still needs adjusting though. Like before, its engaging only 1-1.5" off the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I dunno, it drives like the PO burned it a little, too much slip and it starts shaking...
 
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