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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my first post so Hello to all.
I just purchased a very used 1987 Stanza 4dr sedan a week ago and the seller was less than honest about the lack of any problems, go figure.
The main issue is with the 10 amp fuse marked "Meter" which powers the electric windows, tachometer and temp. guage. I'm not sure what else is on that circuit if anything.
The fuse blows repeatedly leading me to suspect a shorted hot wire or two wires touching somewhere. But without a troubleshooting procedure it would be difficult at best to identify or trace the problem. So my first request is for anyone who has had this same problem and was able to fix it. Would you please post the procedure here?
My second request is for any info, link or seller for the original Nissan service manual #2T1287. I would like to purchase one since as usual the Hayne's Repair Manual has very little to offer.
Sorry if either of these has already been covered in a previous post but I don't have time to look.
Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hello again.
It's been 2 months since I posted hoping for some assistance but nobody has responded. Was there something wrong with my post? I thought I posted in the proper thread. It was my first post here so if I didn't post properly let me know and I will correct it.
I was hoping to get some input since I've been unsuccessful in my search for a solution so far and the vehicle is just sitting.
It's been awhile since I did any troubleshooting on an automobile electrical system and this particular system is completely unfamiliar to me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Hello again.
It's been 2 months since I posted hoping for some assistance but nobody has responded. Was there something wrong with my post? I thought I posted in the proper thread. It was my first post here so if I didn't post properly let me know and I will correct it.
I was hoping to get some input since I've been unsuccessful in my search for a solution so far and the vehicle is just sitting.
It's been awhile since I did any troubleshooting on an automobile electrical system and this particular system is completely unfamiliar to me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
well, heres what id do. to start diagnosing.
so, the fuse keeps blowing and it powers the 3 to you knowledge, first off, unplug the power windows. and see if that keeps blowing. if it doesnt pop anymore, start plugging in each window untill it pops. if it doesnt stop the popping then unplug the tach. IF THAT doesnt stop. unplug the temp gauge. with all 3 it SHOULD stop. if it doesnt, then its time to start tracing wires. but i couldnt find much help with my chilton manual. although i can look up sme information at work tomarrow and post my results.

but if it does stop popping after you unplug something, then that narrows it down. i hate electrical wiring with a passion.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thank You for your reply Steve.
I was checking the wires today at each door looking for exposed and pinched wires but all looked ok. I didn't pull the door panels yet to check inside.
I would have "un-plugged" the windows like you suggest but as I said this car is completely unfamiliar so I wouldn't know where to start. I have another vehicle I'm barely keeping on the road so it would be nice if I could get this one in at least semi-dependable running condition in case something happens to the primary vehicle. The wiring issue is one of the major things I need to resolve, the others I can handle myself.
As I originally posted I would like to get ahold of the original service manual #2T1287 but searches have been unsuccessful.
My brand new $20+ Haynes offered no help much like your Chiltons which is what I was planning on getting next so thank you for saving me the money. I normally like to keep both on hand for whatever vehicle I have at the time but it's not something I need to spend money on right now if it doesn't cover this problem. I can always get one later.
Do you have any links that would have a pictorial view of the window wiring so I could try your suggestion?
Thanks again for the reply.
 

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Thank You for your reply Steve.
I was checking the wires today at each door looking for exposed and pinched wires but all looked ok. I didn't pull the door panels yet to check inside.
I would have "un-plugged" the windows like you suggest but as I said this car is completely unfamiliar so I wouldn't know where to start. I have another vehicle I'm barely keeping on the road so it would be nice if I could get this one in at least semi-dependable running condition in case something happens to the primary vehicle. The wiring issue is one of the major things I need to resolve, the others I can handle myself.
As I originally posted I would like to get ahold of the original service manual #2T1287 but searches have been unsuccessful.
My brand new $20+ Haynes offered no help much like your Chiltons which is what I was planning on getting next so thank you for saving me the money. I normally like to keep both on hand for whatever vehicle I have at the time but it's not something I need to spend money on right now if it doesn't cover this problem. I can always get one later.
Do you have any links that would have a pictorial view of the window wiring so I could try your suggestion?
Thanks again for the reply.
at work today, ill try looking up some diagrams and then email them to myself and post them here. hopefully we can figure this out. but i dont know if our program goes back as far as 87 but i will look. ill post again later tonight on my findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Steve,
Some diagrams would be great. I was also trying to find some pictorial type step by step instructions showing the actual components and where to disconnect each window etc. but I haven't had any luck so far on the internet. I found this forum while looking as a matter of fact.
If I do successfully rectify the problem I could take some picures on my phone and post them here for the next guy who runs into the same problem.
 

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Thanks Steve,
Some diagrams would be great. I was also trying to find some pictorial type step by step instructions showing the actual components and where to disconnect each window etc. but I haven't had any luck so far on the internet. I found this forum while looking as a matter of fact.
If I do successfully rectify the problem I could take some picures on my phone and post them here for the next guy who runs into the same problem.
stay tuned, ill upload some of the diagrams i found.

i dont know what your book has, but our sh!tty mitchel-on-demand program we use, didnt have much useful info.

but here you go!



 

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Thanks Steve,
Some diagrams would be great. I was also trying to find some pictorial type step by step instructions showing the actual components and where to disconnect each window etc. but I haven't had any luck so far on the internet. I found this forum while looking as a matter of fact.
If I do successfully rectify the problem I could take some picures on my phone and post them here for the next guy who runs into the same problem.
to disconnect each window you would need to remove the door panel and just unplug them from the harnes. its somewhere inside the door.

i wish i had a stanza here to help me diagnose the problem. it would be alot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks for the schematics Steve.
As far as the windows, I was referring to the other end so I could also do an Ohm test on the wires. I'm not sure what each window harness connects to or where so those schematics should shed some light. I'm more used to tracing motorcycle wiring on my own bikes, back when I rode. I normally built my own harnesses and kept it to a minimum making troubleshooting easier. Autos are always more complicated :).
I had already planned on disconnecting the windows at the motors but I was hoping to be able to test both ends of each wire to check for breaks inside the insulator since this is fairly common and often difficult to diagnose.
I also plan to remove the fuse block and check the back for overheating and burned out or bad connections since I had this issue with another vehicle. ( Hot wires melting a portion of the fuse box causing shorts.)
I do appreciate your help, it's not something you have to do so thank you for taking time out to assist.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was just looking at the diagrams and according to schematic #2( Fuse Block) the Electric Antenna Timer is also on that fuse. That's interesting because the antenna is broken off but I never really looked at it. I'm going to check today and see if that unit may be the problem. The outer housing is open as if the antenna was removed so maybe water is getting in to the housing and causing the short. But it happens in all weather so it's just a thought. Until now I was unaware that unit was on the fuse in question. The plot thickens.........
 

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I was just looking at the diagrams and according to schematic #2( Fuse Block) the Electric Antenna Timer is also on that fuse. That's interesting because the antenna is broken off but I never really looked at it. I'm going to check today and see if that unit may be the problem. The outer housing is open as if the antenna was removed so maybe water is getting in to the housing and causing the short. But it happens in all weather so it's just a thought. Until now I was unaware that unit was on the fuse in question. The plot thickens.........
np, i dont have much to do since parts for my truck have hit the roof (thanks failed economy) and i dont have the $$ for them untill friday! haha! but i dont mind helping a person with a problem. i try atleast!

but yeah, check it all out and see what you find and please post back here! :givebeer:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I didn't get a chance to look at it today but when I do I will post if I find anything.
I need to look at the antenna anyway because it looks to be broken off but the radio works great which is unusual with the antenna missing.
It would almost have to be corroded inside the housing which night be the problem.
 

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I didn't get a chance to look at it today but when I do I will post if I find anything.
I need to look at the antenna anyway because it looks to be broken off but the radio works great which is unusual with the antenna missing.
It would almost have to be corroded inside the housing which night be the problem.
thats kinda funny, i have a antenna on my stanza but the radio doesnt work worth [email protected]! i have a bad pass. cv axle that needs to be replaced and it causes a almost like hump in one of the tires. but the tires are all good and balanced, so i dont know whats up. might pull it out and look at it, see if the connection is bent or barely making contact. haha!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Well I looked at the antenna today and the telescoping antenna is definitely MIA. The housing is open to weather, bugs and bird crap and still connected to the electrical system but not to the radio.............the sneaky old fart I bought the car off of stuck a cheap antenna in the trunk, hooked it to the main radio coaxial and hid it under the carpet he put in to hide the rust. I'm liking him less and less as time goes on. I trusted his word and that was a major mis-judgement on my part. :balls:
But this explains why the radio works. Unfortunately there wasn't enough room to fit my hands between the quarter panel and the body support the electric antenna assembly is mounted to so I could unplug and remove it. So it's still in place and still electrically hot which could be the source of the short although I haven't yet confirmed it.
But since you mentioned your radio getting bad signal Steve you might want to pull out the trunk panel on the passenger side and check to see if your radio co-axial is in fact connected. The female end is connected to the antenna and the male end runs from the radio, or in my case the stow away stand in antenna.:rolleyes: If that came apart from the vibration due to your tire cupping( which is possible) your antenna would continue to extend and retract normally while providing no usable signal. It's worth a look since the radio is great for making nerve racking noises like horrendously loud blower bearings disappear. :cool: My Heater/AC blower sounds like an A-10 wart hog ready for take off so a working radio is a must have.
At any rate have a great Memorial Day weekend and don't forget to take a few minutes to remember our Veterans and those still fighting and serving. We probably wouldn't be having this conversation without them.
 

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Well I looked at the antenna today and the telescoping antenna is definitely MIA. The housing is open to weather, bugs and bird crap and still connected to the electrical system but not to the radio.............the sneaky old fart I bought the car off of stuck a cheap antenna in the trunk, hooked it to the main radio coaxial and hid it under the carpet he put in to hide the rust. I'm liking him less and less as time goes on. I trusted his word and that was a major mis-judgement on my part. :balls:
But this explains why the radio works. Unfortunately there wasn't enough room to fit my hands between the quarter panel and the body support the electric antenna assembly is mounted to so I could unplug and remove it. So it's still in place and still electrically hot which could be the source of the short although I haven't yet confirmed it.
But since you mentioned your radio getting bad signal Steve you might want to pull out the trunk panel on the passenger side and check to see if your radio co-axial is in fact connected. The female end is connected to the antenna and the male end runs from the radio, or in my case the stow away stand in antenna.:rolleyes: If that came apart from the vibration due to your tire cupping( which is possible) your antenna would continue to extend and retract normally while providing no usable signal. It's worth a look since the radio is great for making nerve racking noises like horrendously loud blower bearings disappear. :cool: My Heater/AC blower sounds like an A-10 wart hog ready for take off so a working radio is a must have.
At any rate have a great Memorial Day weekend and don't forget to take a few minutes to remember our Veterans and those still fighting and serving. We probably wouldn't be having this conversation without them.
ah alright, thanks. sorry i didnt reply sooner, i bought a 1988 Isuzu Trooper II for 70 bucks friday morning! it doesnt have any keys but its pretty clean. anyways, i had to haul that home and then i had to haul a 1988 cadillac brougham to a friends house and then i hauled a 57 GMC to another friends house. and it was in pieces. literatly in pieces hahah!! say the least, its been a hetic last 2 days. and i havent had a chance to look at my stanzas radio, i just was able to enjoy it earlier tonight.

but yes, we are having a memorial day dinner sunday night for my aunt and uncle who are both national guards that were over in iraq for 3 months each. not a real long time, but enough to make a impact over there for some of the fellow soldiers.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's not the amount of time but what's accomplished and under what conditions in that time that count.
Thanks to them for their service.
 
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