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I have a 93' Sentra w/GA16DE. I loaned to a young man for a couple of days. when he showed up in another car to explain that it died and would not start. Towed back to my garage. I got the haynes book out and I have a subscription to ALLDATa.com for the car. The young man burned the starter so that was the first step. Crank-NO STart! So I used normal trouble shooting methods. Fuel Pump Working. I can hear it. Got the volt/ohm meter out and checked the specs on the coil, and they were right on. opened distributor cap, OMG center element fried and gone plus all four points burned. So I replaced with new cap and rotor. Checked for proper TDC matching contact for piston one. Right on. Crank pulley 2nd notch at pointer and rotor right on #1. When I crank it over it seems to try to stumble but won't start. I am getting spark at all four Cylinders. I thought maybe the The Crank Angle Sensor was bad, so once again the volt/Ohm Meter, and it checks out fine. One last thing. I noticed today after cranking over and over for about 4-5 minuted the the manifold coming from #1 and #2 Cylinders was slightly Warm, while the Right for #3 and #4 was cold. I am going crazy with this thing. If anyone could help I would be eternally indebted too U.

Thanks
 

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had a similar occurance with my girlfriends car(there's a thread about in the ga16 section). anyway, i fixed the lack of spark problem but the engine still didn't work. so i took it to a mechanic.

he said that if a car is cranked a lot with no spark(but with fuel) the unburned fuel tends to wash the cylinders clean of oil. this eliminates the oil seal around the cylinders and thus elimnated compression.(no compression=no ignition).

the fix was to squirt some motor oil in through the spark plug holes. worked right away on her car, maybe yours has the same issue.
 

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yea or its a injector issue or some type of fuel dilivery problem, though i dobut all four injectors would go bad at the same time sooo u know the pump is working but is there a blockage maybe the fuel filter crapped out realy bad somehow.. just a thought
 

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ahh of course! if the right injector is bad it can foul all the plugs before they have a chance to spark(happened to me). try starting the car for about 1 minute, then pull each plug and inspect it for gasoline. if one plug is not fouled with gasoline(or at least smells strongly of gas) then its likely that the adjacent injector is not working.

check the inectors first, then try the motor oil on the cylinder heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks so far too Tavel and Slacky

Hey I appreciate the common sense ideas. When you've been rackin ur brains sometimes it is good too step away and others from afar can help. I appreciate it and will keep updates. Tonight I purchased New fuel filter, plugs and wires. I will try your ideas tomorrow and replace these items as well. Some how I missed the Ga16 section of the forum site. I went there and and read related post. I guess I should have posted there. I appreciate your assistance.

Thanks again
:cheers:
 

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no problem i changed my fuel filter today on my 89 made a world of difference. im pretty sure i took off the origional one lol. i hated the ga16i so much but after the new coil and fuel filter its ok still dont like how the timing chain flys off randomly. o and when u go to change your fuel filter idk about everyone else but i started it up then pulled the fuse for the pump to get rid of some pressure, gas still comes out alot at first but its mainly from the filter so i held both ends of the filter and ran over and dumped it into my tank lol but hey gas is expensive and every little bit helps with out gas economical cars
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Your right about that

Slacky said:
no problem i changed my fuel filter today on my 89 made a world of difference. im pretty sure i took off the origional one lol. i hated the ga16i so much but after the new coil and fuel filter its ok still dont like how the timing chain flys off randomly. o and when u go to change your fuel filter idk about everyone else but i started it up then pulled the fuse for the pump to get rid of some pressure, gas still comes out alot at first but its mainly from the filter so i held both ends of the filter and ran over and dumped it into my tank lol but hey gas is expensive and every little bit helps with out gas economical cars
Thanks again, and you are right about the fuel cost. I am going to drain it into a jar at first to look for debris. Thank god I have a heated garage in enviornment and all the tools necessary. My friend and I do Body and paint. we are not much at the mechanics. But, I try. I will update.
 

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Slacky said:
, gas still comes out alot at first
not as much as when someone turns the ignition! buahahahaha! my girlfriend wanted to take a cd out of her cd player, but didn't know that the fuel pump primes before you try to start the car. so i got a nice gasoline shower..yummy.
 

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If there were problems originating inside the distributor, the arcing may have damaged the HAL effect sensor or angle sensor inside the distributor. I have a working GA16DE distributor, or alternatively, pull apart just the plate at the junkyard and place it in your pocket. Saved me $300 on a caravan dist plate!
 

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Turns over But won't Start "FOllowUP" Arrrrrrrrrggghhhh

oK GUYS, REALLY CONFUSED NOW. First I replaced the fuel filter. not much help. checked the resistance on Injectors. Normal. So i replaced the PLugs and wires, BOSCH Platinums 2's and Bosch wires. At this point you could tell that the pistons seemed to be firing some and sounded better , but still no go. So Tavel, I took the plugs out and and put some oil in there. closed it all back up and to my great surprise. The closest yet. you could definitely tell compression and combustion. Some smoke and such coming out of the tail pipe and all. This is the best I have gotten in over two weeks. But still it will not take off and run. as I kept trying with MAF unconnected and I tried some starter fluid into the throttle still no difference. In fact the more i cranked, the less combustion I got. I finally gave up this evening. mind and body too tired to go on. ANyhow I AM LOST!!!!! I can get an engine from the junkyard for $300.00, and I am considering it. But I cannot stand to give up on things like this. It's a mission to beat this thing.....

P.S. Also I put a new distributor on as well.

Thanks again for your help.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ECU Code 13

I have also been getting a 13 code from the ECU, which would be the engine coolant sensor. I would not think that that would keep the engine from starting would it..???????
 

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Unless I missed this somewhere in the thread, did you try pressing the gas peddle to the floor, holding it firmly down while attempting to start? This will add more air to burn any excess gas if infact the engine is flooded.

Flooding is a common problem with this engine if only turned on for less than a minute, generally when it is fairly cold out. It has happened to my car several times, like right now! My dad moved the car for a few seconds on Saturday to shovel the driveway and it wouldn't start for when I needed to go to work today. The fuel cutoff proceedure didn't work, as described above but I'll try again in the morning. Even before I owned it, it had to be taken to a mechanic at least twice to dry out the cylinders. Same issue with the other B13 we have also.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks, I did try that quite a few times this morning and day, Still No start. I have neem hours on this.... I appreciate the input
 

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I've heard that the coolant temp sensor can cause starting trouble when it goes bad, but I am not totally sure so you should search that. Don't buy another engine. Why would you do that? You're engine is probably good, it just won't start. Now is the time to start looking into sensor issues; faulty MAF, coolant temp sensor as mentioned above?? Don't give up! I've been in your position before. Just don't let it beat you!!
 

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It doesn't backfire does it?
 

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nolan64 said:
Thanks, I did try that quite a few times this morning and day, Still No start. I have neem hours on this.... I appreciate the input
Have you tried a good ECU yet? This may be all of your problems. What you should have done first was to put the ECU in self Diagnostic mode and look at the flashes. The diag mode will tell you codes. Don't throw the motor out!! There is nothing wrong with it. The ECU will diagnose the issue. Borrow a Nissan Consult and use that to diagnose your issue. If you checked for spark, take a plug on the end of the plug wire #1 and ground it to the motor. Look for a blue bright spark. If fouled badly with gasoline smell, then you have a spark issue also.

If you need an Automatic ECU for a 92 1.6, I have one.

Chris 92 classic
 

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to run u need, spark, fuel and compression, do a compression test than if its all good, change the coolant sensor, might think its at wrong temp so it might not be giving it any gas or soemthing...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks, How?

95 SentraB13 said:
Unless I missed this somewhere in the thread, did you try pressing the gas peddle to the floor, holding it firmly down while attempting to start? This will add more air to burn any excess gas if infact the engine is flooded.

Flooding is a common problem with this engine if only turned on for less than a minute, generally when it is fairly cold out. It has happened to my car several times, like right now! My dad moved the car for a few seconds on Saturday to shovel the driveway and it wouldn't start for when I needed to go to work today. The fuel cutoff proceedure didn't work, as described above but I'll try again in the morning. Even before I owned it, it had to be taken to a mechanic at least twice to dry out the cylinders. Same issue with the other B13 we have also.

What method did the mechanic use to dry out the cylinders? If you know. My shop is very well equipped. Although normally for Body and paint. I was thinking of blowing each cylinder out with compressed air / while cranking. Fuel Pump off of course. Just a logical progression.

Thanks for your input,
 
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