[mo3]

hey

i have heard and red a few forums aprently if u want your car to be able to handle boost (6-8 pound, 7 pound all day) that all u have to do for a dodgy conversion that will work well is this..

ECU
injectors
crossover pipe
air flow meter to turbo ducting metal & plastic piping
detonation sensor & wiring
exhaust manifold
turbocharger
dump pipe & exhaust
oil & water lines for turbocharger


*oil pump will work sufficiently
*decompression plate is reccommended for any decent boost level
*camshaft is not necessary
*intake plenum is not necessary and some people beleive na is better
*N/A manual box is a lot weaker than the turbo manual
*N/A auto is only marginally weaker than turbo auto, could hold up well with a dcent cooler
*brakes will need upgrading, best to go better than VLT if you gotta change anyway
*two pinion, 25 spline diff will hold up quite well but obviously is not as strong as the turbo 4 pinion 28 spline one
*heat sheilds not necessary but were there for a reason


sooo from looking at this all u need is a decompression plate????????

 

[OchnofConcrete]

no offense... but a pulsar?

either way..
don't qoute me on this bs... lol, ha..

ecu's for timing... the timing's still the same...
sorta..
turbo's force air to go into the combustion chamber, rather than the vacuum of the piston going down doing it. ...here's a lil hint though.. when your piston is on the intake stroke, it still has to come up for the compression, then down for power, then back up for exhaust... the turbo only effects the Intake stroke... pushing air in quicker than the vacuum does... ***the vacuum way of getting air into your engine....the way every car without a turbo does....is actually Work-inhibiting....meaning the engine is losing power by vacuuming air in...literally pulling the piston in the opposite direction of the way you want to go*** basically... you're not putting more air into the system, your making it easier for the system to get air in. but then you can get into being able to fill the chamber quicker so you really are getting more air in there because when you vacuum air in... and the valves close before the piston is at BDC then there is actually the real version of a vacuum in the chamber for the slightest second...when you're pushing the air in...well... the valve still closes at the same time creating the same vacuum amount.... which can only be changed by timing.. BY THE CAMS. blah blah... really technical crap that's too early in the morning for.
the turbo just makes the engine work easier, by air pushing the piston down on the Intake instead of the piston sucking the air down... but no more power on the Power Stroke, that's what a cold air is for. Cold Air... more atoms to burn. that's when you have to worry about structural problems...

more atoms, more fuel needed to be right ratio. more air/fuel, hotter explosion. but a KA can take 400hp before you have to worry about it blowing up on you. ..but then again, you're talking about a pulsar.. so i don't know... bore out the cylinder bores and throw in some sleeves... but by then you might as well just get a car with a bigger engine.

injectors are for adding fuel when you add more air... that'd be for the cold air. or if you expand your chamber. if you just have a turbo with no cold air, you're still burning the same amount of air... in fact, minisculy less cuz it's got more friction in it.
but don't take my word on this part... my theory sounds correct on there being the same amount of air with a turbo w/o a cold air... but a turbo WITH a cold air... it's obvious.. more atoms of air needs more atoms of fuel.

turbo obviously.

ummm... yeah... don't know beyond that.
sides a better crank that won't tear in half.
;]

 

[mo3]

lol i forgot to add that list was for a vL commodore but i thought that instd of going all out i can just put a decomprssion plate and the rest like the turbo manifold bluh bluh , just enuff for the pulsar to handle boost

 

[OchnofConcrete]

tell you the truth...
i don't know what a decompression plate does..
tell me and i'll have a good idea though.

a turbo forces the piston down on the intake stroke...
still the same amount of air though...
so same amount of fuel needed.

where a turbo does the damage...
the rings, the rods, the rod bearings, the crank, the driveshafts.

but like i said, don't qoute me...
i'm just tryin to think it through.

 

[fleck]

wait, what's wrong with the pulsar? it's only 1 notch below sentra and recent model years have had 1.6 and 1.8L engines... sooo.... (oh yeah, and it's a light car too)

 

[BeyondBiscuits2]

hey

i have heard and red a few forums aprently if u want your car to be able to handle boost (6-8 pound, 7 pound all day) that all u have to do for a dodgy conversion that will work well is this..

ECU
injectors
crossover pipe
air flow meter to turbo ducting metal & plastic piping
detonation sensor & wiring
exhaust manifold
turbocharger
dump pipe & exhaust
oil & water lines for turbocharger


*oil pump will work sufficiently
*decompression plate is reccommended for any decent boost level
*camshaft is not necessary
*intake plenum is not necessary and some people beleive na is better
*N/A manual box is a lot weaker than the turbo manual
*N/A auto is only marginally weaker than turbo auto, could hold up well with a dcent cooler
*brakes will need upgrading, best to go better than VLT if you gotta change anyway
*two pinion, 25 spline diff will hold up quite well but obviously is not as strong as the turbo 4 pinion 28 spline one
*heat sheilds not necessary but were there for a reason


sooo from looking at this all u need is a decompression plate????????

First of all, the biggest question is what engine are you running? When you say Pulsar, I assume US model with either the E16, GA16i, CA16DE, or CA18DE powerplant. You could, of course, have an Australian Pulsar (or EXA) or a Euro-spec Pulsar (a.k.a. Sentra / Sunny with different body style).

1. If you have an E-series engine (E15, E16s, E16i), all I can say is have fun finding the parts. The best option is to get an E15ET from Australia, or find a junkyard here in the States that has one laying around (very rare). This is a hard feat since only the 1982-1984 Pulsar NX models came with the E15ET, and just about everything is probably impossible to find. Your best bet there is to get on the EXA forums to ask around... someone is bound to have an E15ET they are willing to part out; but be prepared to pay shipping from Australia or New Zealand... ouch!

2. If you have a GA-series, you're in luck. You can buy the TSI turbo manifold or TSI turbo kit, whichever you choose. I suggest grabbing a harness and ECU from a '91-'94 Sentra, and put an MPFI intake manifold and injectors on your GA16i. Just change harnesses, ECU, and sensors and it should work. Then you'd have a MPFI SOHC engine... or you could just get a GA16DE and be done with it. Get an A'pexi S-AFC 2 or JWT ECU, and go at it with 259cc or 370cc injectors. Your car will run under boost like a daily driver with no problems... mine does.

3. The CA-series is the easiest of all. Get a CA18DET turbo manifold, and go for it! Change out to the 370cc injectors from the CA18DET, and have a ball. You'd probably want to run a CA18DET ECU, but I am sure you could compensate with an S-AFC 2 as well.

You'll also need a NPT to BSPT fitting for the oil lines. Must have!

I also just noticed you're in Australia, so the E-series should be a breeze!

 

[mo3]

hey BeyondBiscuits2 thanks for that it helpd aloT..to be honest im new wif this turbo thinG soo yeh id like to give it a shot n see wat hapns, i mean if im gana do it i mite as well do it rite.but is it worth putting a decomperssion plate just to run 6-7 pound boost i was thinkn bout it but i duno...another question how about if i superchargd it?? wat u wrekn and yes im from australia, turbo pulsars rule here ..

 

[mo3]

lol i have one more question i was thinkn bout buying a micro teck(afta market computer) and installing it in my pulsar, i went past proteck here in melbourne performance workshop i askd them but they were n werent %100 keen on the idea but from wat they sed im thinkn of installing it i mean its only gana cost $750 all up suply n fit..wat u rekn?