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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well, i dropped the transmission pan to change the filter and drain the fluid, and well there were these two fairly large circle magnets stuck to the pan, just wondering what they are and were they go, thanks!

I have a 1993 sentra XE
 

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normal wear and tear on your tranny sometimes shaves off a metal fileing or 2 from various places in the tranny, autos have lots of moving parts with lots of friction so if those fileings were to keep on floating around between all the parts it would just make the tranny wear out real fast, so the magnets collect all the lil peices
 

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TwiztidKidd
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Clean them off and stick em back on the pan. They're there to collect the metal shavings out of the fluid. Every auto transmission has one (or two). I don't see why do you need to change the trans filter. There's nothing really that'll clog it up so bad that'll affect performance and taking the pan off it's not a bright idea... its hard to get it all sealed up when you put it back so it won't leak.
 

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94econobox said:
Look closely and you'll see two bumps in the pan that fit these magnets. Just pop em on there. And do not attempt to replace the filter on this car. Trust me.
Exactly! ^ Also, watch the torque on the pan gasket bolts. Nissan tech told me 9 to 12 ft lbs. My torque wrench started at 10 ft. lbs., and popped a bolt. Maybe my wrench calibration was off? Just be careful. :)
 

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just lay some rtv on there for sealent , big fat bead so it smooshes everywhere, then hand tightne the bolts pretty snug and let it sit for like.. atleast 6 hours before risking driving or evey filling with fluid because rtv is supposed to sit 24 hours to be fully cured. most of them atleast
 

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It is a screen, that some remove and replace. Then, they have problems getting the valve body bolt back in place. So, the word filter and screen are being used to describe the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
first off the over torque comment came a little too late so i broke one off but luckey me theres 50 other bolts. i also changed the filter when half the forum told me not to and it seems to be running swell except for the little valve bolt that wouldnt tighten up all the way so i hand tightened to keep it from falling out, if any of you geniuses on the forum have a tip for getting the bolt back tight, please feel free to advise, lol
 

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Now we have matching transmissions! :thumbup: My bolt would just spin around when I went to remove it. I imagine AAMCO and my local mechanic could not get the nut back either. Oh, well. It is been like that for up to 95,000 miles. So, if you don't find a genius here, I would not worry about the filter bolt.
 

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The nut and washer should eventually work their way dow into the pan and stick to the magnets, you can get em next time you change the fluid. There were no openings above the valve body that will allow these to go into the trans, so it's really not a big deal.
 

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Pos93Sentra said:
first off the over torque comment came a little too late so i broke one off but luckey me theres 50 other bolts. i also changed the filter when half the forum told me not to and it seems to be running swell except for the little valve bolt that wouldnt tighten up all the way so i hand tightened to keep it from falling out, if any of you geniuses on the forum have a tip for getting the bolt back tight, please feel free to advise, lol
The bolt that won't tighten up is held by a nut and washer on the top side of the valve body. When you remove the bolt, the nut and washer are no longer held in place, so you can't get the bolt re-attached.

In order to get things back the way they belong, you must remove the valve body and attach the filter screen before re-installing the valve body. There are 15 bolts holding it on. You should keep track of which bolt goes where because they are 4 different lengths and can't be mixed up. All the bolts should be tightened to 61-78 in-lbs.

It really helps to have a Factory Service Manual when working on the transmission (or any other part of your car). All the instructions for servicing including torque specs are there.

Lew
 

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Hi,

I did the same mistake - removed all the bolts that hold the filter and can't put one back cause of that stupid nut.

Is that safe to leave the bolt out? Can't the nut get inot some moving part and destroy the whole transmission?

Also you say I can take off the valve body and find the nut? How difficult it is to take the valve body off? Any secret besides the bolt order / type / torque? I'm afraid that if will fall apart and I won't be able to put it together.

Thanks a alot,
Leon

[email protected]

lshadoff said:
The bolt that won't tighten up is held by a nut and washer on the top side of the valve body. When you remove the bolt, the nut and washer are no longer held in place, so you can't get the bolt re-attached.

In order to get things back the way they belong, you must remove the valve body and attach the filter screen before re-installing the valve body. There are 15 bolts holding it on. You should keep track of which bolt goes where because they are 4 different lengths and can't be mixed up. All the bolts should be tightened to 61-78 in-lbs.

It really helps to have a Factory Service Manual when working on the transmission (or any other part of your car). All the instructions for servicing including torque specs are there.

Lew
 

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Man! All this is fair warning!

It sounds as if you're asking for bad voodoo (meaning you may be able to get it back together to your satisfaction, but then again you may not) if you drop the pan & start pulling off the screens & stuff. Econobox's story about seating the lips of a gasket just right and this other talk about messing with the valve bodies & poppets & so on makes it seem as if she isn't broken, you really ought not try to fix it.

I have changed my transmission fluid before using the following method:

1. Put the car on ramps, pull the pan plug (not the pan itself), and collect all the fluid that drains out in a container so you can tell exactly how much I've removed.

2. Put the plug back in (it takes the same size crush washer as the oil pan plug--offhand, I think it's 14mm).

3. Pour in exactly the same amount of fresh fluid that you'd drained.

4. Watch the fluid level & check it regularly.

So far this has done a good job of keeping pretty clean, un-burned fluid in there. Granted that this method changes less than the whole capacity of the tranny (it's not a dry refill); however, if you do it a couple of times over a few weeks, you've gotten most of the old dirty stuff so diluted with fresh fluid that you're in good shape.

In my experience, aside from keeping clean fluid at the right level, automatic transmissions are mostly best left alone. They're fluid computers and if you fool with them, you'd better know what you're doing. I cannot claim that expertise.

Last I read, General Motors made all the automatic transmissions (Turbo-Hydramatics) for Rolls-Royce, and Chrysler shipped Torqueflights to makers of cars like the Austin Lagonda.

Anyhow, when Rolls got their first shipment of automatic transmissions from GM, the Rolls technicians & engineers unboxed the things, drained them, took them all apart, polished off all the burrs & imperfections & stuff that they found so they could bring the trannies up to Rolls-Royce standards, then re-assembled them & refilled them. . .and sure enough after that, none of the transmissions worked any more.


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Has anyone here had experience replacing the governor gear in a car with a GA16DE & a 4-speed overdrive (sorry--I don't have the specific number at hand)? I've read in another thread that the OEM govgear is nylon, and when it goes your car won't shift out of first. The solution (an upgrade) is apparently not a new nylon gear, but a brass gear that bolts straight in, no hassle.

Does anybody know if there are symptoms beforehand when the gear is wearing out?

Does anybody know a good source for sure on this part?

Can anybody tell me how much hassle the gear swap really is?

Thanks!



konnikov1 said:
Hi,

I did the same mistake - removed all the bolts that hold the filter and can't put one back cause of that stupid nut.

Is that safe to leave the bolt out? Can't the nut get inot some moving part and destroy the whole transmission?

Also you say I can take off the valve body and find the nut? How difficult it is to take the valve body off? Any secret besides the bolt order / type / torque? I'm afraid that if will fall apart and I won't be able to put it together.

Thanks a alot,
Leon

[email protected]
 
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