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Discussion Starter #4
You've got an internal seal that's starting to wear a bit or your transfer case is overfull with oil.
Ive never changed the fluid on that as far as I can recall. The fluid is a bit brown.

Should I worry about this, it doesn't drip as of yet. Dont even know how long its been like that, I just happened to notice when checking underneath the vehicle today.

Also, should I do a fluid change on that? I know the service manual doesn't have a recommendation.
 

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Ive never changed the fluid on that as far as I can recall. The fluid is a bit brown.

Should I worry about this, it doesn't drip as of yet. Dont even know how long its been like that, I just happened to notice when checking underneath the vehicle today.

Also, should I do a fluid change on that? I know the service manual doesn't have a recommendation.
If your car is a 2012 or older, then Dexron II is used and the color is red for new fluid. If the fluid is a bit brown, that's OK; if it's dark brown or black and has a burnt smell, then there may be internal damage. 2013 and newer cars use a Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5 Viscosity SAE 80W-90.
It would be good to replace the fluid. The FSM states that if towing a trailer, or using a car-top carrier, or driving on rough or muddy roads, change (not just inspect) oil at every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 24 months.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If your car is a 2012 or older, then Dexron II is used and the color is red for new fluid. If the fluid is a bit brown, that's OK; if it's dark brown or black and has a burnt smell, then there may be internal damage. 2013 and newer cars use a Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5 Viscosity SAE 80W-90.
It would be good to replace the fluid. The FSM states that if towing a trailer, or using a car-top carrier, or driving on rough or muddy roads, change (not just inspect) oil at every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 24 months.
Thanks Rogoman.

Would it be okay to use Castrol Transmax High Mileage ATF in my transfer case because of the seal conditioners in this fluid. And some Lucas Transmission Fix to help with seals?

I’ve read of people changing the fluid and not being able to get back in the same amount? I know it takes 2 quarts and change.

Is this something I can do in my driveway without issues?
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
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Thanks Rogoman.

Would it be okay to use Castrol Transmax High Mileage ATF in my transfer case because of the seal conditioners in this fluid. And some Lucas Transmission Fix to help with seals?

I’ve read of people changing the fluid and not being able to get back in the same amount? I know it takes 2 quarts and change.

Is this something I can do in my driveway without issues?
Castrol Transmax High Mileage ATF would be OK to use. However I would hold-off using the Lucas Transmission Fix if the Castrol ATF stops the leak. The fluid capacity is 2.2L (2-3/8 qt). There's a fill plug on the side; keep pouring the ATF in until it starts coming out on it's own; now you know it's full. The car needs to be level when you're filling the case, so don't jack the car up in the front; if you do, the fluid level will be incorrect.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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That's where the transmission and transfer case bolt together. It's more likely the rear seal of the transmission as opposed to the front seal of the transfer case, but you really don't know unless you dye test the transmission and let it go for a little while before checking with a UV light, or, by removing the transfer case.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's where the transmission and transfer case bolt together. It's more likely the rear seal of the transmission as opposed to the front seal of the transfer case, but you really don't know unless you dye test the transmission and let it go for a little while before checking with a UV light, or, by removing the transfer case.
No, not coming from there. It’s the transfer case that it’s coming from directly.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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Well, in that case, the best you can do without removing the transfer case and separating the case to reseal it is put a wrench on the bolts and make sure they are tight, clean the residual oil off with some brake cleaner and let it dry and then smear some gray RTV sealant along the seam where it's leaking...then cross your fingers!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, in that case, the best you can do without removing the transfer case and separating the case to reseal it is put a wrench on the bolts and make sure they are tight, clean the residual oil off with some brake cleaner and let it dry and then smear some gray RTV sealant along the seam where it's leaking...then cross your fingers!
Thanks smj999smj.
One more thing, in regards to the transmission fluid, when I changed it a few months ago I drained and refilled then cycled through the gears several times and tapped up.
I was checking my fluids just now and when it’s cold without even starting the fluid is up to the hot line.
Is that just because I didn’t cycle through gears? I know the best way is to to be warm when checking fluids but I was curious about this case.
Did it overfill?
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
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Thanks smj999smj.
One more thing, in regards to the transmission fluid, when I changed it a few months ago I drained and refilled then cycled through the gears several times and tapped up.
I was checking my fluids just now and when it’s cold without even starting the fluid is up to the hot line.
Is that just because I didn’t cycle through gears? I know the best way is to to be warm when checking fluids but I was curious about this case.
Did it overfill?
When the tranny is cold and not running, a lot of the fluid has drained down into the pan, so it'll show a higher level on the dip stick. The proper way to measure the fluid level is to fully warm up the tranny and while the engine is idling, check the level.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That's where the transmission and transfer case bolt together. It's more likely the rear seal of the transmission as opposed to the front seal of the transfer case, but you really don't know unless you dye test the transmission and let it go for a little while before checking with a UV light, or, by removing the transfer case.
I think you were right on the leak between the transmission and transfer case. I have changed the fluid in transfer case and applied the RTV sealant to the seam where it appeared to sweat. I’m still finding fluid around the area and a little ahead of it towards the transmission and transfer case contact point where there’s two weep holes. I’m not sure why it was located more towards those two bolts in picture. Maybe it was running back?

What I do know is that it’s not the transmission end of it that might be leaking but the transfer case. Because before I changed the transfer case fluid it was old brown fluid I was getting in the area. Transmission fluid has been changed a few months ago so it couldn’t be that color. After changing the transfer case fluid, the new fluid is slightly leaking.

Its not a major leak by any means, but ever since I noticed it back in November I probably have 4 or 5 drip marks on the ground in total.

What am I looking at to repair this leak?

Should I even repair it or monitor fluid level? That would require opening the full hole every so often.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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As you drive, fluids tend to push rearward in a non-pressurized environment. If a seal was to leak on a transmission or transfer case or even an engine oil pan, it'll more likely leak at the rear seal than the front. Think of how many oil pan rear lip seals leak on a VG engine compare to the front lip seal...or, how many times an extension seal leaks on a transmission or transfer case compared to the front. That's not do say your transfer case front seal is leaking and not the transmission rear seal, but that's what's common and you have to remember that fluid is going to get dirty running down the case and exposed to the elements. Personally, if I'm going to remove the transfer case to fix a leak....which is what you have to do to replace the seal...then I would replace both the front and real seal on the transfer case (and maybe even the seal at the yoke for the front driveshaft, as well) along with the rear seal of the transmission. Seals aren't that expensive and I don't have time, personally, to be pulling parts out a second time. I'd rather take care of something and do a little preventative maintenance to save me time in the future. That said, if the leak is only a few drops a day, you could just keep an eye on the fluid level and drive it for awhile until it gets worse or you have time to replace it; that's a decision you have to make.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Without a doubt you are correct smj999smj. And yes when I have the transfer case out I will be replacing all the seals as I already have access to them.

The only reason I know for sure it’s the transfer case front seal, is because prior to changing the case fluid the color of the fluid was brown like the old fluid inside the case. After changing, the color of fluid leaking was reddish, as it now had fresh fluid. Again not denying the fact as you said it could be transmission seal and running down transfer case causes it to get dirty. But the color of leak changed right after fluid change so that was my clue.

I got a quote of 300 bucks to pull the case for the repair and they said they need about a day for repair. It’s a shop I used to replace the planetary gear in the transmission about 5 years ago and they’re very familiar with Nissans.

I can’t say it’s dripping everyday. In my driveway there’s about 5 drip marks there since October when I discovered it. So I assume it’s not bad yet. I don’t know if it leaks more or less when driving. I’ll pull the fill plug tomorrow and check the level.
 
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