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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got back from a road trip, construction site both directions, 90 degrees outside, 45 minutes to go 6 miles. Has anyone installed a trans cooler? Nissan part# 21606-ZX59A? Thank-you, Nick 2016 2.5 Altima.
 

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Just got back from a road trip, construction site both directions, 90 degrees outside, 45 minutes to go 6 miles. Has anyone installed a trans cooler? Nissan part# 21606-ZX59A? Thank-you, Nick 2016 2.5 Altima.
You probably need more than a cooler. Nissan had some issues with the 2016 Altima CVT transmission slipping and released a TSB concerning the TCM (reprogramming, if I remember correctly) and replacing the subset, if damaged (the steel belt and pulleys). This requires removing the transmission and teardown along with having the CONSULT III tool to reprogram it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It wasn't the response I was hoping but, Thank-you for the response. Found it, TSB NTB15-084b. Looks like nothing preventative will be done until a code. I have been looking at other Altima's and quite a few are well over 100K, so I would like to install a cooler on it. With the exception of going over the mountains, (2.5) this is the best road trip car I have ever owned. The cooler I mentioned is for 09-18. Nick
 

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It wasn't the response I was hoping but, Thank-you for the response. Found it, TSB NTB15-084b. Looks like nothing preventative will be done until a code. I have been looking at other Altima's and quite a few are well over 100K, so I would like to install a cooler on it. With the exception of going over the mountains, (2.5) this is the best road trip car I have ever owned. The cooler I mentioned is for 09-18. Nick
You might want to check into this cooler installation:
 

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Cooler won't hurt, but don't forget to service the CVT fluid regularly. That seems to be a key on making these CVTs last. I would service the fluid at least once every 30,000-50,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is what I am getting ready to do. I am at 28K. So far all I have done is install a dipstick so I can have a reference. It has a filter and a screen but all I have found is change fluid at 30K, 5 qts. I believe.
 

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Cooler won't hurt, but don't forget to service the CVT fluid regularly. That seems to be a key on making these CVTs last. I would service the fluid at least once every 30,000-50,000 miles.
That is what I am getting ready to do. I am at 28K. So far all I have done is install a dipstick so I can have a reference. It has a filter and a screen but all I have found is change fluid at 30K, 5 qts. I believe.
The fluid has two great enemies, and temperature is only one of them. The other is shearing force generated by normal operation of the belt, which increases on hills or with a load. This gradually breaks down and shortens the long-chain molecules that cushion the belt. So unless you drive like grandma and live in Flatsville Flats, 50K is too long. Keep it to 30K and the tranny will treat you well. Don't mess with the filter under the beehive, Nissan doesn't recommend ever changing it even if the beehive is replaced. The reason is, CVT's have almost no clutch material and never make "ATF soup" like a conventional A/T. So the filter's primary purpose is only to catch fine metal particles that get through the front pump instead of settling out in the pan. Changing it incautiously or back-flushing the system (never do that!) can both put those particulates back in circulation. You'll be better served to simply drop the pan every couple-three changes and clean it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank-you, I am going to change it at 30K. Now I am trying to figure out flow and mounting orientation. Some say trans-cooler-rad, others say trans-rad-cooler. Mounting is the other, some say mount with fittings vertical some horizontal. Nick
 

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Now I am trying to figure out flow and mounting orientation. Some say trans-cooler-rad, others say trans-rad-cooler. Mounting is the other, some say mount with fittings vertical some horizontal.
You're most welcome. There's no big advantage to the order either way, but the top (return) hose to the radiator on an Altie is a complete PITA to access. Putting the cooler (or H-valve and cooler) between the beehive and radiator makes the installation much easier because the upper hose can be left alone. Note that on all side-tank Nissans, the beehive inlet and outlet are easy to identify. The bottom hose at the radiator is always the outlet, the top is always the return. Nissan does it that way deliberately, so the buoyancy of any bubbles coming out of the front pump helps chase them up and out of the heat exchanger and back to the beehive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So today, I removed the radiator upper cover & air inlet. My trans doesn't go to the radiator. I have 4 lines from the beehive. Cooler install is on hold for now. Always something!
 

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On an Altie the two smaller lines from the beehive will go to the driver's side radiator tank. The upper (return) hose can't be seen without removing more than the cover, because. the battery shelf is right above it. However, if you install the cooler between the beehive and radiator then there's no need to mess with the upper hose. The lower (pressure) hose is easily visible from underneath with the engine splash cover removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am going to jack it up this afternoon and pull the splash cover. Engine compartments have downsized over the years. Nick
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I looked. The (2) small lines are connected together. I'm sure the larger ones are coolant. As small as this beehive is, I can't a whole lot of heat transfer happening. There are no connections on the rad. I haven't been able to find any diagrams of either coolant flow or trans fluid flow. Nick
 

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If they're looped together, someone probably installed an aftermarket radiator with no heat exchanger lines. That's very unhealthy, it basically makes your beehive into a 2-port. If you don't want to replace the radiator, use the next size bigger cooler (8-pass) and install it where the looped lines are. That may over-cool a bit, but you're better off with too much cooling than too little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I bought the car new. The coolant lines go to the coolant outlet flange. Once I figure out which small line is out and which one is return, I am going to install a cooler. Thank-you for all the help!! Nick
 

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Yah, the coolant lines are in the same loop with the cabin heater. But looped-back trans lines is weird, I'll have to look in ASIST and see what's up with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It may be standard equipment and a cooler is optional unless the car is sent to hotter southern regions. I found several coolers on line but no in/out label. Nick
 

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Only coolers with a built-in bypass valve will care about in and out. So if you're not planning on a bypass and you mount the cooler vertically, you can send either line to either side. If you're mounting the cooler sideways then it matters, you should feed the beehive outlet to the bottom of the cooler just like Nissan routes their heat exchangers. That helps avoid trapped bubbles in the cooler.
 

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Well, someone has definitely screwed up your car. Here's the parts drawing for a '16 2.5. It should definitely have a tank cooler. Parts 21631 and 21631+A are what should be there.

7603
 
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