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How in the hell do you exactly adjust the timing in my car??? I have read the thread from Kojima's garage, and it doesn't mean shit to me. I know very little about engine's, but he says you can do this safely with only a few degrees. Does anyone have pics of this throttle body piece he said to disconnect or whatever? I need help!!!
 

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mirrortints said:
How in the hell do you exactly adjust the timing in my car??? I have read the thread from Kojima's garage, and it doesn't mean shit to me. I know very little about engine's, but he says you can do this safely with only a few degrees. Does anyone have pics of this throttle body piece he said to disconnect or whatever? I need help!!!
UH, Sir? PLEASE TAKE YOUR HANDS OFF OF THE ENGINE AND STEP AWAY FROM THE CAR. THANK YOU.

Seriuosly...

...If you don't understand Kojima's write-up, I would suggest you have someone else do it. Those write-ups are very detailed. Or atleast have someone who knows how to do it, assist you.

Another option would be to buy a FSM and/or Haynes manual. That would help.
 

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Okay, I got a stock 2001 SE, no performance mods, what should I get the timing set to?? and what is it set at already?
 

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UH, Sir? PLEASE TAKE YOUR HANDS OFF OF THE ENGINE AND STEP AWAY FROM THE CAR. THANK YOU.
Agreed, knocking is an EXTREMELY bad thing if you screw up. Either find someone who knows what they are doing or pay a mechanic. Neither myself or my friends own a timing light so I just took it to a shop. It was actually cheaper this way, $30 and 30 minutes later my car was done.

I'm not quite sure on the SE, but the SE-R's timing is 10 +/-2 degrees stock. You can safely go up to 17 degrees w/ premium gas. I have heard of some people going higher but they have higher octane gas available. Myself, I live at altitude so I'm rather limited. Premium here is only 91 octane.
 

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Aight, well I live in the D.C. area and premium is 92 octane, but I think I'll stick with the 17 degrees, just in case. Thanx.
 

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??

What is timing, exactly?

Oh and, Hey, I'm new to the club. Nice to meet you all.


thanks
 

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Whoops....I made a mistake, the stock timing for a sr20de engine is 13 degrees...may be different for the GA16.

What is timing
Timing 101
The timing of the engine is related to how long fuel is allowed to burn in the cylinder before the remaining chemical reaction is discarded into the exhaust. Don't ask me to describe the specifics but basically your timing belt times your valves and pistons to work together and not smash into each other while fuel is being sprayed into the cylinder and ignited. By adjusting the degrees of the spark plug (I don't know why it's in degrees, I would love to have someone explain it to me), the mixture of fuel is allowed to burn longer in the cylinder and thus releasing more energy (which equates to more power). The limiting factor in this equation is knock. Simply put, your engine 'knocks' when there isn't anything in the cylinder to burn. Regular unleaded gas burns quickly and if your timing is advanced, there won't be anything to burn, thus creating knock. This is why you need higher octane fuel because it burns longer. Premium gas is a must if you advance your timing or you will soon destroy your engine. Additionally, if you have an aftermarket ECU, the degrees will be different.
 

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Thanks

Thanks a lot. I think I understand now
 

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zeno said:
Whoops....I made a mistake, the stock timing for a sr20de engine is 13 degrees...may be different for the GA16.
Well kinda, but not! Stock timing for ALL US spec'd SR20DE's is 15 degrees +/-2. So you are within mfg's spec's if you set your timing between 13 degrees and 17 degrees. But anything higher than 15 degrees requires a higher octane than just 86-89. Minimum of 91 octane is required.
 

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Well kinda, but not! Stock timing for ALL US spec'd SR20DE's is 15 degrees +/-2
Why would a stock timing be at 17 degrees? If that were true then you would have a whole lot of unsuspecting people getting knock. The 13 degrees comes straight from se-r.net.
 

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zeno said:
Why would a stock timing be at 17 degrees? If that were true then you would have a whole lot of unsuspecting people getting knock. The 13 degrees comes straight from se-r.net.
As stated, by me, the FSM's for all '91 and newer, Chilton's, Hayne's, Mitchell-on-Demand, and www.se-r.net:

Stock timing on the SR20DE is 15 degrees +/- 2.

Here is the link to se-r.net:

http://www.se-r.net/engine/about_timing.html

In a not so detailed nutshell:

The reason most SR20's were set at 12-13 degrees was because it allows them to pass the Fed/Cali emmissions tests with flying colors. So Nissan/Infinity would go conservative on the timing and set it at the lowest possible degree within the spec's of the engine.

It also allows the consumer to be able to run lower octane fuel in the car. Selling tool to get consumers to like the fact they can buy the cheaper grade fuel and still get good fuel economy.

Not very many consumers would want to by a low priced sport compact, econobox compact, etc. if they were required to use 91 grade or higher octane fuel at all times. So the timing is usually set lower than it can be.
 

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Here it is directly from se-r.net which was quoted driectly from the FSM as well:

(NOTE: the bolded section)

Here's the instructions from the factory manual on adjusting ignition timing. My (Wayne's) comments are in [square brackets], the rest is pretty much verbatim from the book.

Warm up engine to regular operating temp, and ensure idle speed stays below 1000 rpm.
Run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes under no-load [in neutral, no accessories on]. Race engine 2 or 3 times under no-load, then run engine at idle speed. [this heats up the oxygen sensor so it is working]
Turn off engine and disconnect throttle position sensor (TPS) harness connector. [It's on the side of the throttle body facing the firewall - driver side of the engine, down low and past the brake master-cylinder]
Start engine. Race engine (2 - 3000 rpm) under no-load, the run at idle speed. [You may have trouble keeping it running with the throttle sensor disconnected. Depending on where your timing is set, it may stall. If so have someone sit in the car and press the gas *very slightly* to keep it running. Don't rev it up or you will not get an accurate timing reading/adjustment. Keep it at idle speed, about 800 rpm]
Check ignition timing with a timing light. It should be 15 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees Before Top Dead Center. [The timing mark at the extreme left (counter-clockwise) is zero degrees. There are lines at 5, 10 and 20 degrees to the right of it. There is a wide paint mark from 13 to 15 degrees, which the factory probably set yours to. Eyeball 17 degrees between the marks and that's what you want.]
 

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Spark is measured in degrees because it's such a small amount of time...the units of time are Minutes and seconds, but smaller than seconds are degrees in lengths of time. Because the flash from the plug is so brief, it's measured in the smallest quantity of time possible. Unless I'm completely wrong about that and the flam lasts for a period of time that corresponds with 17 degrees of crank rotation...
 
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gottabfast said:
Spark is measured in degrees because it's such a small amount of time...the units of time are Minutes and seconds, but smaller than seconds are degrees in lengths of time. Because the flash from the plug is so brief, it's measured in the smallest quantity of time possible. Unless I'm completely wrong about that and the flam lasts for a period of time that corresponds with 17 degrees of crank rotation...
You're completely wrong.

I cannot be measured in time because for one thing time varies with RPM.

It's measured in degrees because everything is referenced to the crank's angular position with zero being where the piston is at TDC. Crank rotates 360 degrees, camshafts duration are measured in degrees, timing is measured in degrees.
 

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Well I'm no jackass, (despite what I and others might say about me) but here's the deal. My car idles very nice, right at 800, when it's up to temp. Now, I stop the car, pull the TPS off and restart. Now the engine wants to idle at 1500-1700 RPM's, which is why I think my timing appeared to be at like 25 degrees when I checked it last night. So like a retard, I retarded the timing. Needless to say, I felt the results today. So I thought, maybe the engine wasn't up to temp last night. Neeless to say, after a long drive home and the engine being up to temp it made no difference. Idles right on 800 like it should, but with the TPS off, it want's to fluctuate between 1500-1700. And no matter how many times I race the engine at 2-3K it doesn't "lock" into this magical land of "timing mode" I hear so much about. So tonight I put it back to an estimated 25 degrees, where it was before I messed with it. So I'm guessing my base idle is off. So I'm going to read in my FSM how to adjust that. Hopefully this fixes things, not the reading mind you, but the adjustment of the base idle after I've read on how to do it. ;) I would appreciate any input if I'm on the wrong track with this. Thanks.
 

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Well, putting the timing back to 25 was a good thing. Car drove very nice this morning. I found out where the idle adjustment screw is, it's on the IAC solenoid just below the #1 intake runner. So tonight when I get home from work I'll adjust the base idle down to 800 and see how the timing reads then. Next order of business is replace my taillight, new timing chain tensioner and gasket, new belts and crank seal, and hopefully figure out where my oil leak is coming from. Pretty soon the car might be worth what I paid for it! Imagine that! :rolleyes: ;)
 
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