Nissan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '93 Z32 that I'm changing the timing belt on. I am new with Z's so I've been following a walk trough from twinturbo.net, which says that when you take the belt off, the cams will move. I've got everything off and I am down to the timing belt. When I take the timing belt off, if any of the cams move, I'm afraid that I won't be able to put them back correctly.

What's the best way to make sure that none of the cams move when I take the timing belt off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I would think just make sure that you have the engine at top dead center. That way if a cam moves you can just realign it with the marks that show tdc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can they be easily moved? Are the springs not so tight as to make this very difficult? Sorry If I'm making this harder than it really is, I just want to make sure I know exactly how this is going to work before I take the belt off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
If you try to move the cam via the cam gear it will take some muscle. The cams themselves have a place to turn it with a wrench (around 23mm). If you go that way turning the cam gears are easy, but at a cost of about 2 or 3 hours to get to the cams and to put valve covers and intake manifold back on after you are done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
That's the best way that I know, but if you can keep the cams from rotating you don't have to worry about it. Maybe you could rotate the cams by connecting timing belt to the cam gear in question and the crank, using the timing belt to pull the gear. My personal feeling are that the timing belt is one thing you definatly don't want to put on wrong because the conquiences could be horrible if it isn't aligned right. Even if you had to get under the valve covers it isn't hard, just time consuming. I think that all you have to do as long as you can keep the cams from rotating is: remove the drive belts, remove the water pump pulley and crank pully, remove the 2 water pipes that are right under the intake manifold, remove the three pieces that cover the timing belt, and you are there. Maybe Spongerider The Geru could/ will give you a better way to do it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Now that I think about it you probably will be able to move either the exhaust or intake cam with a socket. I don't remember which one it is, but the one that has the round plate at the end of the cam that is secured by 4 small bolts has a beefy bolt under the plate that could probably be used to rotate the cam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool. I'll check that out, thanks. I took the plenum off a couple of months ago to change injectors, and I don't really want to do it again. I will take those plates off and see what's underneath. Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally got the timing belt replaced. I had to do some cutting on the clamps I ordered to make them fit, but the worked well.

After my buddy and I put the new belt on, we realized that it was on backward (arrow pointing toward front was pointing toward back). But from what I can tell, that doesn't look like it makes a difference. Does it matter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sweet, I'll put it back together, and hopefully I won't have anymore big problems and I can start driving it.

Thank you for your help, guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
717 Posts
If you have all the cams pointing to the timing marks then you'll be fine. Now you do have to move them a little to set the timing belt. I use some cheap clamps from Harbor Freight to to hold the belt in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I went ahead and turned it around. Do you have more information on the clamps? I already have this job finished, but it would be good for archiving purposes, in case someone is looking for something for a future job.

As far as my job, the timing belt is done, now I just have to put it back together and hope it works this time. I bought this car not running last summer, and so far I've replaced the fuel pump, injectors, some other minor things, and now a 60k service kit because It wouldn't keep coolant and overheated. Hopefully it works better with the new thermostat and water pump that came in the kit. Wish me luck.

Thank you guys.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top