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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guy's bought a high mile Sentra with a good body and I may be dealing with an oil pressure issue? My thoughts are considering pulling it out and rebuilding it. Just how big of a job are we talking and what will need to be done besides the normal rebuilding stuff?? First time with a Foreign car....
 

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B13 GA16DET
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Ok guy's bought a high mile Sentra with a good body and I may be dealing with an oil pressure issue? My thoughts are considering pulling it out and rebuilding it. Just how big of a job are we talking and what will need to be done besides the normal rebuilding stuff?? First time with a Foreign car....
just remember when you rebuild. adjust your valve shims!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well wolf I think that is my problem as of right now? It is making a very load ticking noise fromt the top end at around shift point. It's an auto box. I have not put a timming light on it but everything looks clean and tight but it seems very weak on Hp. Is there a way to determine if you have a bad hydrolic lifter /lash adjuster??
 

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The adjustment on the GA is by shims, there is no hydraulic lifter.
Just remove the valve cover and measure the gap between the back of the lobe and the shim.
follow the FSM procedure. Gaps are specified hot or cold (sometimes both)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ian do you think that my problem could just be everything is out of adjustment? I mean the car does have high miles? I had the Rocker box off and the cams look new and very clean and there's no build up whatsoever... Have you ever heard of the valves being out of adjustment enough to cause ticking from the top end? I have gone out and found a 42 thousand mile engine and trany from a wrecked car for 900.00 bucks and I am have tempted to just change it out! But the Mechanic in me wants to drive on and figure out what has gone wrong? I just do not know what the longevity is on these engines? Are they even capable of running good for that many miles before somthing goes internally???
 

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I know there are many cars here 200K + miles.
Yes the valves can go out of adjustment.
The older Jaguar DOHC set up specifies adjusting every 60,000 miles but newer Import cars do not recommend an adjustment interval.
So just check them, shouldn't take long, its adjusting them thats a pain.
Oh BTW I think you are right, that buying a low millage engine is the way to go, the parts are too expensive to rebuild these import engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The thing that worries me Ian is that is does seem preaty weak and milage is not the best? The way the ticking comes on is I drive the car and right before the auto box shifts it comes in like a tick tick tick. Hard to explain but honestly she runs good and the trany shifts well I hate to give up on it so quickly. Do you happen to know what the size of the sender switch is? I want to check the oil pressure before I do anything. Is this the only place to check it from? It's a real PIA to reach it! I can emagine loosing power if the valves are all out of wack,the only thing though is it looks as if the way to adjust them is to change to a differant sized shim? Am I correct on this or have I read it wrong?
 

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B13 GA16DET
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when you adjust the shims do it when your engine is at normal operating temperature, my valves ticked all the time even at idle, and as the rpms went up the ticking got faster. power loss? well the engine is weak especially at higher rpms. and if your valves are out of wack then your engine isnt giving the correct compression to the chambers thus power loss. all my parts are stock and cost me around like 300 (just for parts) i.e. low compression pistons with all the rings and stuff, 16 valves, the head i sent to a machine shop to rebuild
the shims were around 12 dollars or so EACH from a nissan dealership, or you can have them made from a machine shop for like 40 dollars a pop, (but those are prices around here maybe your local machine shop will be cheaper.)
the choice is yours rebuild or just swap for the lower mileage one...
what will you do
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hmm I'm wondering if a refresh would be the way to go? Did you look at the bottom end at all? How were the rod and main barings? I would not mind pulling the head and having it freshed but in my book if your doing that then you might as well be rebuilding the whole engine. How were your bottom end barings? If they hold up good on high mile engines then this would be the way to go. Were the pistons beat? how were the rings?
 
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