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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I put this thread together because so many people ask about a header for the GA16DE. This is going to review all the common types of headers they have for sale for the 1.6

Here is another great thread for information about the search for a header on the GA16 -

www.GA16forum.com • View topic - A tale of four headers

FAQ-

-Just about each header has its own EGR setup so some modification might be needed
-You HAVE to use a 1.6L (GA16) header. 2.0L (SR20) header will NOT fit.
-Not all of these headers have the o2 bungs in the same places
-Using a SE-R catalytic converter is also a good upgrade

Modified mag said:
The GA16 is cursed with one of the worst exhaust manifolds. Cylinders 1 and 2 and cylinders 3 and 4 are paired together. Each set of adjacent exhaust ports dump into a crude funnel which flows into an oversized stubby pipe and then feeds into a close-coupled catalytic converter. This is about the worst arrangement possible for the production of power, although it probably does cut down cold start emissions.

Why buy an aftermarket header for your 1.6 -


Modified mag said:
The header pairs cylinders 1 and 3 with 2 and 4 to create an interference branch in addition to the normal, tuned length of the unpaired primaries. This is what helps tri-Y designs usually have a broader powerband. Tri-Y's are also less sensitive to changes to the engine's tuning than a race-style 4-into-1 header design. These attributes usually make the tri-Y better suited for street use and for when the header designer does not have control over the final specifications of the engine. (thanks to modified mag)
Here are the different types of headers you can get for the 1.6L (GA16DE)

Pace setter -



Collector Diameter 2.000 in.
Flange Style Standard Flange Thickness (in) 3/8 in.
Header Material Steel Header Style 4-2-1
Primary Tube Diameter (in) 1 1/2 in.

Pace setting has always made questionable products when it comes to quality

anonymous said:
My headers from pacesetter started rusting after 3months, they are the coated ones too. Now after having them for 2 years, they just look like crap. They also didnt fit as good as hooker headers and other brands I have installed on other peoples cars. I will never buy from pacesetter again also, I was very upset with them.
OBX -



This will fit the 1.6L engine models only. System is made from 304 stainless steel for durabilty. It is backed by a lifetime warranty from OBX against manufacturing defects. Includes new upper header gasket. Two sensor ports at the upper runners are in place for the stock sensors.

1 piece designs are often a PITA to install and doesn’t come with the full length exhaust to reach the catalytic converter like the 2 piece designs.

OBX has had some very nice quality things -

anonymous said:
OBX has been making some very highquality parts. All of their exhaust components are stainless steel, fit very well, and have excellent weld quality. Their other products are also very good. I would recommend them to anyone, as I have their 4-2-1 race header and I have been more then pleased with it.
anonymous said:
I bought a longtube OBX header on ebay and I LOVED IT. Some of the best money I spent on my car! I think they are quality. My 2cents.
Hotshot - (No longer in business)



The Hotshot header features ceramic-coated, thick-walled, steel construction and is obviously a quality piece. At the dyno, the header produced an impressive gain of 6 hp with a maximum gain of nearly 9 hp in the 5500-rpm range for a total of 106 hp and 100 lb-ft of torque. (modified mag)

Weapon R -



Made from 304 stainless steel and is a 2 piece design.

The quality of Weapon R seems to be questionable when it comes to a few things-

anonymous said:
Many people on here have installed it but Weapon-R's quality seems questionable. The welds on many of these have broken, requiring them to be re-welded. Also note that whatever header you go with, your car will be very loud and your exhaust will sound raspy.
Still in progress i will continue adding information. Please leave feedback :)
 

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This header is an OBX copy a bud got for me stateside, i'm currently in the Philippines and here's a DIY on the install

Tools Needed

1. Sockets
10mm, 12mm, 17mm
2. extensions and ratchets
3. flathead and philips screwdriver
4. Blade or gasket scraper
5. 2 or 3 Ton Floorjack
6. 2 Jackstands

Here's our New Header in Full Stainless steel, Mandrel Bent Beauty, complete with Gaskets

You will need to find Plugs for the O2 Sensor and EGR hole as we do not have these on our B13 and early B14 GA powered Sentra's










1. place the jack under the bolts connecting the crossmember to the front end - make sure that the jack up point cup does not slip when you are lifting, i wedged the jacking point against the bolts holding the crossmember to the front chassis

2. place jackstands under the jack up points in the chassis or, in my case i placed them under the holding cups securing the Front arm rear (Big) bushing

3. now get underneath and loosen the 17mm bolts holding the exhaust piping to your stock header




4. get back up and loosen all 10mm bolts holding the heatshield to your stock cast iron Header


5. Make sure to remove the side header heatshield as well (this will help in making space specially when you are removing the header from the car by pulling it from underneath


6. Now Remove the Auxiliary Fans by removing the 10mm bolts that secure and attach them to the Radiator, disconnect the socket connectors as well located on the sides of the fans - once you remove the bolts, the fans can easily be pulled upward since these just have small peg legs that attach them to the front end of the car


7. Soon as all the Fans are removed, disconnect all the radiator hoses connected to the head and block using a philips screwdriver, now is the time to remove the 10mm bolts holding the Radiator, there should only be 2, once out, tilt the radiator a little bit towards the engine and pull the rubber bushings that hold the radiator in place, soon as you get em out, you can now just pull the radiator upward and set aside in a safe location (be careful that the lower bushings that the radiator sits on are not lost)


8. now loosen then remove all the 12mm nuts holding your stock header connected to the head


9. Remove the plastic splash underguard located just underneath your stock header, by removing the 10mm bolts


10. You are now ready to remove your header by doing a 45 degree clockwise position when looking from the top (at an angle) while removing/pulling from below the car


be careful it doesn't land on your feet (the primaries are Cast Iron and Very Heavy with sharp edges not deburred)


here is the oem stock header, Very Restrictive and Front heavy since the primaries are made of cast iron


11. now scrape off and remove all the old gasket material with a scraper or blade - be careful not to scratch the head mating surface (its made out of Aluminum), be gentle and take your time cleaning and scraping Amigo!!!







12. once mating surface is clean, place your new gasket (supplied with the header) and bend the Oil Dipstick Facing you (front of car) in order to slide the header from the Top part of your engine bay


Once you have the header installed.

13. Torque Down all the Header Nuts starting from the inner nuts working your way outside :

Torque Spec: 12 ro 17 ft/lbs of torque




14. torque down the header to exhaust piping connection (i replaced my bolts with springs with High Heat high temp bolts ince the threads on the 17mm bolts with springs was sheared off)

15. now reinstall your Radiator and might as well clean it since its out of the car, drain the radiator and flush with water until you no longer see any brown water or corrosion coming out of the bottom drain.

- you might as well drain the Engine block plug and remove it using a 14mm socket with extension and ratchet and let all old water and coolant drain out

- open up the breather burping plug close to the CTS - its a 10mm bolts next to the coolant temp sensor (CTS) pretty close by the thermostat housing.

- plug up your radiator drain

14, Fill your entire cooling system with distilled water and coolant until water squirts out of the engine block plug, then screw in the plug, then check the Burping hole close to the CTS, make sure to run water until you get all the air pockets coming out from the burping plug, then screw in the 10mm bolt the slightly tighten to spec (be careful not to break it)

15, reinstall your fans and double check all your work, making sure everythings is installed and secure.

16. once car has been driven, recheck the torque on the header nuts the next day
 

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Thanks for the informative post. :)

So, what are your impressions after installing this header? Specifically, did you loose any low-end power? I ask this second question because I have a 2006 GA16DNE with an auto tranny in Thailand I want to try this modification to.
 

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The original header Gen 1 Hotshot did not have the secondary pipe to the CAT. so if you bolted the header up to the stock tiny 1 3/4" pipe, the header would not even do anything. A shop would have to Bend up a new pipe to connect the header to the CAT. I had done this and oh my goodness did that make the difference off the bat. I had a 2 1/4 pipe made with a ball and socket type fitting for flex movement.

The Hotshot Gen 2 is the best unit and I have currently. has the entire pipe to the CAT, flex joints, etc.

I just wonder if there are any companies making the 4-1 versions like Legere did in CT for Tim Mathers GA16 Rally car.


What we need is someone to Fab up a stainless T-304 Turbo header. now hotshot made a unit for their Kit, any floating around to copy?

Chris 92 classic
 

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B13 Owner since 90
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Thanks for the informative post. :)

So, what are your impressions after installing this header? Specifically, did you loose any low-end power? I ask this second question because I have a 2006 GA16DNE with an auto tranny in Thailand I want to try this modification to.
here in the Philippines, all our B13 Sentra's dont come with Catalytic Converters, so it was a perfect fit, No O2 Sensor and No EGR

certainly freed up the restriction in revs all the way to 7,500 RPM, i did not notice any loss in low end torque as i'm using Solid Engine Mounts in all 4 corners.

the engine now sounds like a mini V8 with a slight rumble
 

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those headers are cool, but i try to look for jdm accesories for my 91 sentra but i dont know where i can go to get them can you give me a website adress?
 

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here in the Philippines, all our B13 Sentra's dont come with Catalytic Converters, so it was a perfect fit, No O2 Sensor and No EGR

certainly freed up the restriction in revs all the way to 7,500 RPM, i did not notice any loss in low end torque as i'm using Solid Engine Mounts in all 4 corners.

the engine now sounds like a mini V8 with a slight rumble

Wow, no EGR or O2 sensor and 7500rpms to boot? Not having the EGR is cool, but how does your engine run in closed loop after it warms up? My guess it stays in open loop with the preset fuel and ignition maps in the ECU.

In Thailand, our GA16DNEs come with EGR and two catalytic converters (one is the closed coupled type next to the exhaust manifold). Looks very similar to the US set-up before OBDII. I went ahead and made an OBX header copy in Thailand and had it installed with fiberglass exhaust wrap. I already had a 2" straight through muffler installed and thankfully it did not get that much louder. I wished it sounded like a V8 though! The power increase was worth it and I deleted the EGR in the process to add up to 17-18 degrees timing advance (we have 95 octane gas). Even with the auto tranny, the car is rather peppy now with much more midrange power. A lot has to do with the car only weighing about 2250lbs.

The one thing that bugs me is the rev limiter in my car. My car cuts a cylinder at 6200 and then another at 6400 to have them all stop by 6600rpm. What rpm does your rev limiter come in at (7500?) and is it a hard rev limiter or a soft touch one like I have? Thanks!
 

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After fixing my oil leak and my re-doing my clutch, im hoping to get the OBX headers off ebay, glad to see that they work and that people like them :)
 

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@sunny
where did you get these items? Iam also from Philippines, down south...
I was wondering which is better for my B13 GA16DE 4-1 or 4-2-1?, I am considering of getting one, fabrication is the answer, I doubt there are plenty of these header for sentra
 

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znoj = got the header from the states, me and a bunch of CNS Baguio (ClubNissanSentra.com) peeps did a bulk order through a friend, we payed roughly around 9,000 pesos each including shipping. you these are probably made in taiwan or china for Stateside consumption.

Log on to ClubNissanSentra.com if you have the chance.


cbhinkel = the GA16DE that i have is the very early gen from the 1st Batches of B13 SuperSaloons that came in the philippines fully assembled in Japan minus alloy mags, steel rims where just used for transport and Rota got the contract to supply oem 13 inch alloys. the B13's are called SKD (semi knock down) hence the lack of emissions and higher rev limit compared to the stateside version.

i know i hit rev limit at or around 7500 as my shifter vibrates and no more power beyond that. i dont get shut down, its not like hitting a wall, you just feel no more power after, i guess you could call it a soft limit ;)
 

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@sunny
Im planning to change stock headers, I am not sure yet if I will go for 4-2-1 or 4-1 and get a straight pipe 2".. which is better 4-2-1 or 4-1?will this effect on gas consumption?
 

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4-1 will be more suited to higher revs and peak power, 421 better more mid range power.

both should see improved mpg if you drive it normally as teh engine is more efficient and doesnt have to struggle against a bottl neck restriction
 

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I had the old Hotshot Gen 1 with only the header being hooked to the front stock front pipe at 1 1/3 diameter!!! I had a shop build me a new front pipe and that made the header work. 91-94 sentra 1.6 engines had these wimpy front pipes, no flex joint.

My Gen 2 hotshot had the front pipe from the header to the CAT with flex joint. I still have now. The OBX unit, does not look it has the flex pipe or pipe that runs to the CAT. not good.

Chris
 

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PaceSetter

I purchased the PaceSetter Header for the B13 GA16DE and installed it on my B12 GA16i, as they have the same block.

I had a custom 2" exaust made with an over sized Walker CAT an a Magnaflo muffler.

The 2 mods needed was to bash the tab of the engine cross member out of the way about 1/2"...
and to add another connector for the emmissions stuffs, but you don't HAVE to, depening on the emmissions laws in your city.

Some say the PaceSetter Headers ane not the best, but it was the only one I could find.
 

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hello everyone! I was just reading this topic a couple of days ago and guess what? My freakin headers went decapitated itself. It's the flange before the flex(intermediate) pipe. I was looking for a replacement and I also found that most of the manufacturers do not make headers for the GA16DE engine anymore. Only pacesetter does.
What I did find are ebay options. I need help to find out if these are the right kind or how reliable are these products. Avoiding scams at this point.

New Exhaust Header Nissan Sentra 200SX E GSX GST GXE GLE SE 1 6L 4 2 1 for 91 99 | eBay

This one mentions 2.0 but fits 1.6?
Megan Racing Stainless Steel Header for 1991 1999 Nissan Sentra 2 0L | eBay

OBX Racing Sports SS Exhaust Manifold Header 91 99 Nissan Sentra 200SX 1 6L 4CYL | eBay

Doing a temp repair while finding more info. Or just go pacesetter?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The 2.0 (SR20DE) header will not fit the 1.6 (GA16) regardless what their website says. The bolt pattern on the head is completely different.

A lot of people use the obx but it's a 1 piece header instead of a 2 piece like the factory. Any way to go is a better option than a oem manifold.
 

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i got the KYO racing headers delivered and I installed it yesterday. It fits perfectly. O2 and egr bungs included. The collector tip that leads to the intermediate/flex pipe had threads that were the same ones with the spring bolts I bought. 7 hours it took me to complete but all is in order. One mod though, I had to remove the name plate of KYO racing between the #2 and #3 pipes.
I had some issues with my car but if you will be going to do your headers, heads up!
1. Oil dip stick is going to be more trouble that you think.
2. lower middle nuts and washers will be a problem if you have short fat fingers since those are going to be right where the pipe bends. They will fit but cant get sockets in there. I had to use an open wrench and slowly tighten those nuts.
3. EGR pipe. It fits, the threads are correct but - the bung was not exactly the same location as before, close but not the same. So I had to wrestle with the pipe just to be it in and tighten.
I hope this helps with you guys upgrading. Oh yeah, BTW, my new headers had larger pipes that the crap I removed and the pairing is better. I believe I did not lose any low end power, I increased high end. Engine revs higher now. Have yet to take it to the highway though.
Good luck to all!
 
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