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toolapcfan said:
I've yet to encounter a computer controlled car that doesn't have a wire from the coil to the ECU for a tach signal. All B13's B14's and B15's have a wire from the coil to the ECU. They also all have a wire out of the ECU that is intended for connecting to the optional OEM tach. If you know more than I about this, why are you asking me how to hook a tach up to your car? I've helped other people wire a tach in their B13, B14 and B15, you obviously have not, hence why you're spouting off like a retard again. I've forgotten more than you'll ever know smart guy.
ok there you go actin smart about something noones asking about its like talking about how u process cheese,(noone cares) and secondly i never asked u for help i was being sarcastic bc u were actin like an ass to someone else who needed help... and a spec v engine is none of the above listed so b4 u start spouting off like a retard encounter a QR25DE then spit out all that yac yac knowledge u think u have...and im done having this lil internet beef with you bc its pathetic and pointless bc if i were to see you in real life you wouldn't dare try me... :fluffy: so do like fluffy and turn around.
 

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wonder1872001 said:
and a spec v engine is none of the above listed
Man you're sharp! Spec V's are B15's ya stupid shit.
 

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toolapcfan said:
Man you're sharp! Spec V's are B15's ya stupid shit.
ok so then whats a QR25???your such a dumb fuck you dont kno what your talkin about b15 are 1.8liter cheaper sentras,whereas a spec v has a 2.5 liter so yea y dont u edit what you wrote b4 u embarrass yourself too late quoted already...maybe next time...maybe if you upgrade your vehicle ud kno this...
 

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Your electrical friend
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wonder1872001 said:
ok so then whats a QR25???
That'd be the engine found in a spec V ya dumbass. B15 is the chassis code for all Sentras made after 2000. God, I can't believe how retarded you are. Let me take a shot in the dark here. You think the "V" is a roman numeral "5"? You pimpin' your "Spec Five"? :loser: Each time you post, you continue to prove how ignorant you are. You really should just quit because you keep digging your hole deeper.
 

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Your electrical friend
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wonder1872001 said:
ok so then whats a QR25???your such a dumb fuck you dont kno what your talkin about b15 are 1.8liter cheaper sentras,whereas a spec v has a 2.5 liter so yea y dont u edit what you wrote b4 u embarrass yourself too late quoted already...maybe next time...maybe if you upgrade your vehicle ud kno this...
Actually, I haven't edited most of my posts. Funny you should say that, because you edited yours. And before your stupid as goes talking about "upgrades" I did inital design work on the lower control arm brace for the B13 that Progress makes, as well as provided some of the specs for the coilover suspension they make for the B13. Both are products that didn't exist before I talked with Progress about manufacturing them. Hmmm, let's see, what have you done that could compare to that? Oh yeah, that's right, you aren't even aware that B15 is the chassis code for all 2000+ Sentras.
 

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toolapcfan said:
Actually, I haven't edited most of my posts. Funny you should say that, because you edited yours. And before your stupid as goes talking about "upgrades" I did inital design work on the lower control arm brace for the B13 that Progress makes, as well as provided some of the specs for the coilover suspension they make for the B13. Both are products that didn't exist before I talked with Progress about manufacturing them. Hmmm, let's see, what have you done that could compare to that? Oh yeah, that's right, you aren't even aware that B15 is the chassis code for all 2000+ Sentras.
there you go talkin bout that cheese that noone gives a fuck about."oh i did this i did that," when plain and simple your tryin to cover the fact that you dont kno where the fuckin wire plugs into for the spec v or "spec 5" thanx for the idea just might make a decal... still twistin up the lil things and ignorin the plain and simple fact that you cant just say that a b 15 is a spec v when in essensce its not...you said it yourself its the body so stop contradicting yourself and tryin to make me look like i dont know what im talkin about when we are both right bc the chasis yes is the same but it holds the 1.8 and the 2.5 (lil different there)yea where all humans theoretically speaking but there are different races... just like with the car
 

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wonder1872001 said:
ok so then whats a QR25???
thats called sarcasm damn ill feel bad for your family u ever heard of the sayin the apple doesnt fall far from the tree...u must've hit a couple branches on the way down
 

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Your electrical friend
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wonder1872001 said:
there you go talkin bout that cheese that noone gives a fuck about."oh i did this i did that," when plain and simple your tryin to cover the fact that you dont kno where the fuckin wire plugs into for the spec v
No, it shows that I've got cheese and you don't have shit. It really doesn't matter what I know though does it? The fact still remains that you don't know, and you're the one trying to make out like you know better than I do.

Which brings me to my point. I do know which wire it is, because as I've already mentioned, I've helped someone install a tach in a QR25DE powered B15. I did it personally. I even used the same FSM from phatG20 that you did. It's just too bad that in this thread, you started off being an asshole, while in your other thread you're minding your P's and Q's, hoping for some help. Maybe next time you won't be so mouthy and you'll get the info you need right away. All your bullshit mouthing off certainly isn't going to convince me to tell you which wire it is. But don't you sweat it man, because you know better than I do, you don't need me to tell you which wire it is, which is exactly why I won't tell you.
 

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toolapcfan said:
No, it shows that I've got cheese and you don't have shit. It really doesn't matter what I know though does it? The fact still remains that you don't know, and you're the one trying to make out like you know better than I do.

Which brings me to my point. I do know which wire it is, because as I've already mentioned, I've helped someone install a tach in a QR25DE powered B15. I did it personally. I even used the same FSM from phatG20 that you did. It's just too bad that in this thread, you started off being an asshole, while in your other thread you're minding your P's and Q's, hoping for some help. Maybe next time you won't be so mouthy and you'll get the info you need right away. All your bullshit mouthing off certainly isn't going to convince me to tell you which wire it is. But don't you sweat it man, because you know better than I do, you don't need me to tell you which wire it is, which is exactly why I won't tell you.
ok stalker researching my name now...point is maybe u do kno more and maybe u do have more cheese who knows who cares but the way i see it is...im 19 and im a medical student and i think i have a pretty bad ass whip and i dont go around stuntin everythin i kno and got like i said i felt u came at someone wrong bc they had a different approach at the situation...but in the long run i think mine is commin nice so you can hold out all you want its fine...not stressin it but ima be the bigger man and walk away from this and eventually figure it out myself...and eventually when i graduate tell u the truth won't even matter bc ill have a different whip
 

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wonder1872001 said:
ok stalker researching my name now...point is maybe u do kno more and maybe u do have more cheese who knows who cares but the way i see it is...im 19 and im a medical student and i think i have a pretty bad ass whip and i dont go around stuntin everythin i kno and got like i said i felt u came at someone wrong bc they had a different approach at the situation...but in the long run i think mine is commin nice so you can hold out all you want its fine...not stressin it but ima be the bigger man and walk away from this and eventually figure it out myself...and eventually when i graduate tell u the truth won't even matter bc ill have a different whip
Actually I happened to be browsing the B15 section of the forum. Interesting that you'd post your thread in the B15 section when you originally claimed your car wasn't a B15. I've got 10 years on you, and I remember that I thought my shit didn't stink when I was your age as well. When you graduate are you still gonna talk like a punk thug? Stuntin your mad tyte medical skillz that pay the billz? ;) Regardless what you do, you're not the "bigger" man. Trust me on that one.
 

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for some reason I don't think this thead is quite finished........................................................
 

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toolapcfan said:
Actually I happened to be browsing the B15 section of the forum. Interesting that you'd post your thread in the B15 section when you originally claimed your car wasn't a B15. I've got 10 years on you, and I remember that I thought my shit didn't stink when I was your age as well. When you graduate are you still gonna talk like a punk thug? Stuntin your mad tyte medical skillz that pay the billz? ;) Regardless what you do, you're not the "bigger" man. Trust me on that one.
Well like I have explained im b4 im new at this forum thing i would've posted my thread under a datsun or a pick up if i had too... And I know my shit stink everybodies does (some more than others) I just can't stand ppl that put down ppl in the forums for askin a simple innocent question, i mean after all thats what the forum is for help isn't it...If your just here to talk about cars then really you should find something else to do like find a friend... and yea your prolly true when i graduate i still am gonna talk like thug but only too lil punks... that dont talk respectful...like my mom always taught me you can't get respect unless you give respect...and dont tell me im gonna stunt when in all these past threads you've been the one stuntin on everything you know and have, like if you have to prove something...me stunt...thats not me...so while you sit here and think of your reply im going to go outside and try to figure out which wire leads to what.... see ya :hal:
 

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Back to topic...

The install went like a charm and i get better at wiring every time i do it. My dimmer didn't work but it may be the old ass tack i used. A neighbor gave it to me and its late 80's early 90's aftermarket. Come to think of it my r/defroster light dosn't dim either.

Is it normal for my '92 1.6 sentra to idle at 450 RPM's? Whatever it works great and i love it.
 

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toolapcfan said:
Very nice, It's nice to see other people take the time to do this stuff and do it right. I shake my head when I hear people are hacking into the coil wiring to get a signal and drilling holes in their firewalls. When I put a tach in my '93 XE I used the blue/white wire also, which worked fine, but the actual tach wire used for the OEM tach is the blue/black wire at ECU terminal #2. It's also found in a harness behind the HVAC controls. I also tapped into the dimmer wires at the dimmer switch, it's closer to the gauge cluster and easier to remove and fish wires to than the hazard switch. It seems as though most tachs don't have a seperate power feed or ground for the backlight though, so using the dimmer probably won't work on a lot of aftermarket tachs. In the XE I used a cheap Equus (sp?) 2" tach I bought from JC Whitney for about $20, because to me, nothing would have been cheasier than to have a noticeable tach in an XE. And I used double sided tape to hold it onto the steering column on the topside. That didn't hold up too well in the summer heat but I wasn't going to drill holes or do anything permanent to mount the thing.
Were is the ECU terminal #2 and what is the HVAC i am trying to find the blue/black wire.

thanks
LanFX
 

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toolapcfan said:
Very nice, It's nice to see other people take the time to do this stuff and do it right. I shake my head when I hear people are hacking into the coil wiring to get a signal and drilling holes in their firewalls. When I put a tach in my '93 XE I used the blue/white wire also, which worked fine, but the actual tach wire used for the OEM tach is the blue/black wire at ECU terminal #2. It's also found in a harness behind the HVAC controls. I also tapped into the dimmer wires at the dimmer switch, it's closer to the gauge cluster and easier to remove and fish wires to than the hazard switch. It seems as though most tachs don't have a seperate power feed or ground for the backlight though, so using the dimmer probably won't work on a lot of aftermarket tachs. In the XE I used a cheap Equus (sp?) 2" tach I bought from JC Whitney for about $20, because to me, nothing would have been cheasier than to have a noticeable tach in an XE. And I used double sided tape to hold it onto the steering column on the topside. That didn't hold up too well in the summer heat but I wasn't going to drill holes or do anything permanent to mount the thing.
damn for someone that talks about ppl not doing things right double side tape wtf talk about ghetto... shit might as well have used elmer's school glue...
 

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I put a 8K RPM tach in my 94 XE I had a few years ago, I ran the signal wire directly to the coil. the B13's have a rubber insulated boot around the wire loom going from the driver-side door for the electrics in the door itself, what I found is you can run most wires through that, and run them down the inside of that front quarter panel, and you can get them to come out just by the fuse block/battery, I did that for both my amp power (4ga. thick) and tach. It is slightly ghetto but it's worked fine for me so far and saved me the trouble of drilling a hole.

No the door doesn't pinch them..

Oh btw, I mounted it to the A-Piller with 2 screws and the bracket that was included, if you ever want to hide the screw holes you can just pick up another A-Piller from a junkyard for probably $10-20.
 

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Tachometer Problems

cowsnuker said:
This write-up is for the Nissan Sentra XE. 2door or 4door.

I did quite a bit of searching, only write-up I could fine consisted of the cluster swap, not really an individual aftermarket tach install. There were some "help me!" posts, but here's the answer. :)

Suggested tools:
Electrical Tape
Phillips Screw Driver
Drill (Sorry, don't know what size bits you need off hand)
Wire splicer (I used a pocket knife)

Before you get started with mounting the tach onto the car, you need you remove the passenger side's kick panel. This is located on the floor board, by your feet, on the side of the center console. It's held in by a metal screw, and a plastic screw. Once removed, you have some working room to access the ECU.

Ensure you have your car turned off, and the negative battery wire removed. Safety first, just in case. ;)

The ECU, has quite a bit of wires coming out of the front with a plastic shield protecting the plug-in. It's a silver box, hard to miss.

Remove the plastic shield. You'll notice a bundle of wires wrapped by a protective sheath, made of cheap plastic. Simply expose the wires a little, and dig around looking for a Blue/White stripe wire. Once located, strip the wire. I didn't bother cutting the wire at the ecu, I just "hijacked" it. This wire is the tach signal (you didn't even have to go for the ignition coil!), that was intended for the SE-R, but was left in by Nissan for the XE.

Next, we'll get the power source, dim, and ground.

Remove the center console's cover, the same one that surrounds the cd player, up front center. I believe there's 6 screws to this, doesn't take long. Once unscrewed, you have to remove the shifter boot on the bottom, and pop it out. Careful, the Defroster, and Hazard lights are plugged into this! Just located the plug in the back, and remove, easy to do.

Now, for the power/ground/dimmer, we need to use the rear defroster. Don't worry! The rear defroster will still work after this!

The plug that went into the rear defroster button, consists of 3 wires we'll be "hijacking", the yellow wire (power), black wire (ground), and the red/blue stripe wire (dimmer). Strip each wire for the install.

Now, mount the tach where you'd like, and run the wires (I put the tach's wires behing the center console to hide, and it looked nice. :)), to the sources. The green wire (common, tach signal wire), goes to the ecu blue/white stripe wire. Wrap the wire into the one you striped, and wrap in electrical tape. The red wire (common, power wire), goes to the yellow wire from the defroster. Wrap the wire to the yellow wire, and cover. Black of course, goes to the grounding wire, which is thankfully... black! The White (dimmer wire), goes to the red/blue stripe wire. After everything is covered in electrical tape... reconnect negative battery wire, and turn the key!

I think I have everything included!
Hi, I have a 96 Sentra and just bought a Sunpro II Tachometer, hooked up all the wires, but when I got to the green wire I ran into some problems, I hooked it up to the blue wire on the negative side of the coil but when I turn the car over the neddle goes to 1000 RPM's at idle, but when I give it gas the neddle goes down, do you think it is a defective tachometer? Thanks.
 

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5aprilc said:
Hi, I have a 96 Sentra and just bought a Sunpro II Tachometer, hooked up all the wires, but when I got to the green wire I ran into some problems, I hooked it up to the blue wire on the negative side of the coil but when I turn the car over the neddle goes to 1000 RPM's at idle, but when I give it gas the neddle goes down, do you think it is a defective tachometer? Thanks.
Your car has a B14 chassis. B13 GA16DE has a GREEN/YELLOW wire coming from the ignition coil which you can tap into for your tach. I believe your ignition coil is built into the distributor.
 

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I used the instructions to install a small 3 5/8 Sunpro tach just above my steering column to the right (it covers up the ebrake light and check engine light) and had a real easy time installing everything with these instructions after trying to use 3 other sets of instructions. I recomend these instructions to everyone else who tries to install their own tach. Im might try to include some pictures because I know that would help a lot of people who may not be too familar with cars. It would have helped me alot when I tried to use the first 3 sets.
 
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