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my b13 pisses oil :rolleyes: i got another car that im fixing up so that when this thing dies ill have something to drive, but till then my sentra pisses oil. i just checked the oil today and it wasnt even on the dipstick :(. my money situation is tight and i SIMPLY CANT FIX IT. switching to a thicker oil to help slow the leak is the only thing i can do right now, i simply dont care enough about the car right now to do it the right way, in the past few weekseverything has started to go wrong with the car.


i live in NY and it was just snowing today. so the climate is still pretty cold. what weight would be my best bet to put in it for now?
 

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Powered By hopes & dreams
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could be that common problem that I can't think of......but good luck man.
 

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It's probably the front main seal, which costs about tree-fitty. So, if you run through two quarts of cheap oil, it's a break-even. It's a sticky in the GA16DE section on replacement. I had never done one before and was able to do it in about an hour.
 

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94econobox said:
It's probably the front main seal, which costs about tree-fitty. So, if you run through two quarts of cheap oil, it's a break-even. It's a sticky in the GA16DE section on replacement. I had never done one before and was able to do it in about an hour.
um so in english thats $3.50? or $350.00?? my ebonics arent up to date :rolleyes:
 

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Now w/20% More Magic
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the front main is more around 7-10 bucks its easy as long as you have no trouble getting the crank pulley off pop out the old one and use it to help press in the new one I think there a thread about so do a quick search
 

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Switching to a thicker oil to reduce burning, or especially leaking, is really making the best of a bad situation ... especially in cold weather. And some engines don't respond to thicker oil at all.

And, of course, a thicker oil means harder starting, increased wear on start-up as the oil takes its time moving through your motor and reduced power and economy once the motor is warmed up.

Best to get a massive leak like that fixed.
 

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Bror Jace said:
Switching to a thicker oil to reduce burning, or especially leaking, is really making the best of a bad situation ... especially in cold weather. And some engines don't respond to thicker oil at all.

And, of course, a thicker oil means harder starting, increased wear on start-up as the oil takes its time moving through your motor and reduced power and economy once the motor is warmed up.

Best to get a massive leak like that fixed.
Yes I second that but given his problems and NY winter he needs some time. How about a thick additive like the good old STP. It will have all the problems you listed but will at least protect some on start up because it tends to stay in place. I used a lot of that stuff on some of my older cars years ago.
Also there are seal softeners and expanders that will slow the leak for a while. These will not thicken the oil, so you can use both......
Good Luck.....
 

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If not fixing the leak, I have used Gold Eagle brand Stop Leak (seal conditioner) . It is available at Wal-Mart and some parts stores. It did stop my rear main seal leak, as long as I used the product. Car ran great using it. It may buy you a little time, and may not affect viscosity like thicker oil. If the seal is too far gone, nothing but replacement will work.

http://www.goldeagle.com/no-leak/faqs_no-leak.asp?sub_cat=Brown Leaks
 

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Catman said:
If not fixing the leak, I have used Gold Eagle brand Stop Leak (seal conditioner) . It is available at Wal-Mart and some parts stores. It did stop my rear main seal leak, as long as I used the product. Car ran great using it. It may buy you a little time, and may not affect viscosity like thicker oil. If the seal is too far gone, nothing but replacement will work.

http://www.goldeagle.com/no-leak/faqs_no-leak.asp?sub_cat=Brown Leaks
Can you give more details about that product Catman, when do you add it to the oil, does it stop leaking immediately and when does it start leaking again.
 

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I just added it during my oil change. I used 3 quarts regular oil, and I bottle the Stop Leak product (15 oz I believe). I do not know how long it took, but next oil change area between transmission and motor was dry. But, next oil change I could see some oil leaking when not using this product. My leak is not very big. When my front main seal went, oil was everywhere. It is hard to tell how long it may take or what affect it may have on your leaking situation. The only way to find out is to try it. Now, I am taking a different approach. I am using a product called Auto-RX that cleans the engine and seals. I am on my second cleaning phase, and I noticed more oil leaking on the bottom of my engine, (but I am using less oil). After the seals are clean, they will have to reseat themselves. Seals fail, in general, when they are not able to get a oil. It is oil that keeps them pliable and healthy. When a coat of varnish, etc. coats them, they deteriorate. That is why people who switch to synthetic oil may get seal leaks. The synthetic oil cleans the false seal keeping oil from getting to the seal in the first place. I am hoping my rear main seal is not ripped, and will be fine once cleaned. Here is a link to what I am using to clean the seals/engine, since it may be a better long term option. The side affect is the engine has never been stronger. This product also cleans the ring packs and can bring back lost compression.
http://auto-rx.com/
 

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that's very cool. my girlfriends engine is a little leaky. there is varnish on the dipstick and oil leaks onto the spark plug jackets. and i think the oil lines might be a little clogged. the engine almost sounds like a deisel at idle, as if it didn't have proper oil pressure. i may run it in her car just to see what it can do, improve mileage or the smoothness.

and then ill run it in my car with 190k on it, and see if i get an improvement in fuel mileage or emmisions.
 

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I am also using it on my Saturn with some visible sludge/deposits with great results. Also, I using a product called Fuel Power, to clean the combustion chamber and injectors. So, it is hard to tell what is having the most affect. But, I believe the Fuel Power (FP60) had more effect on my rough idle.

http://www.lubecontrol.com/

I just know both cars are very smooth and have more power. Here is one person who tried to prove Auto-RX did not work. His results were amazing.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=002941

The only problem with Auto-RX is if the seal is too far gone, you will have to replace it. To me, it was worth the risk.
 

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I ordered 3 bottles of the ARX, one for my car and two for my girlfriends. we'll see if they make any difference. im mainly looking for better compression which will translate to better mileage.

i'm not purchasing the other product because i dont see how it is cost effective in any way. i already run very good fuel system cleaner (techron, used extensivly by GM) and dont see how that could improve anything.
 

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Both are good products, but are not for everyone. I failed emission 1 1/2 years ago in my Sentra. An injector cleaning service at Meineke made it pass. But, I have been hesitant to use injector cleaners, since I lost injector #1 right after using an fuel injector cleaner. Fuel Power has done a good job of cleaning things at about 5 to 7 cents per gallon. The increased fuel economy I have gained has covered the cost of the product. Not everyone has that experience. Frankly, it is a PITA to put it in every tankful, and smells terrible. If it was not for the positive gains, I would not use it. Auto-RX requires patience. It will take me a full year to do two cleaning cycles and an additional oil change to see if it took care of my seal problem. Not a quick fix, but a great product to gently/slowly clean the engine.
 

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i dont think ill see the cost benefits of using that fuel additive. i'm content to run techron should th eneed arise.
 
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