Nissan Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Platinum
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I went to AutoXing today and noticed rear tires grip too well and there is almost no rotation at all. Car had too much body roll and pretty heavy understeer. Now I am thinking about getting a sway bar for my car. Sould I get Front and Rear? or Rear only will be better? So far I know ST and $tealen make sway bars for B14, but which is better? I would like to know some info from your experiences. Oh, and where can i get a good deal on these?

Thanks

p.s. Sorry is this has been discussed before..
 

·
Platinum
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks

Thanks for the info!! Yeah, everybody i asked said the same thing. Rear sway bar is the way to fix this problem.. I think this is what I'm going to do next.

How can I get the rear sway bar only??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
638 Posts
$tillen sells the rear sway bar by it self, but it's gonna cost ya. I think wes has the $tillen rear bar, maybe he can add some feed back on how the install went and how well it performs...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Nopi

hey I just found rear sway bar from suspension techniques I think it is like 113 dollars at nopi.com, not bad at all compared to Stillen. And yeah that's what I'm going to get and not the front.
 

·
Platinum
Joined
·
462 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Awesome!

m14cstud said:
hey I just found rear sway bar from suspension techniques I think it is like 113 dollars at nopi.com, not bad at all compared to Stillen. And yeah that's what I'm going to get and not the front.
Thanks sooooooooo much for finding this!! I've been looking for rear sway bar only and this was the first one. I like the price too. I will probablly order this thing soon.

BTW, i had no luck with Summit Racing....
 

·
Driver
Joined
·
736 Posts
The front bar increases understeer. It's not bad for track use(road course and high speed) since the car is more predictable, but for auto-x and street driving a little rotation(by way of the rear bar only) doesn't hurt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Would the rear SE-R anti sway fit on my b13, does it need shortening, cutting, or lengthening or any thing of the sort. Also, does the SE-R have OEM strut tower bars?
 

·
bitter old man
Joined
·
1,456 Posts
Here are the differences between a B13 SE-R and the other B13 models:


  • Somewhat stiffer springs (132/109 lb/in).
    Somewhat stiffer struts.
    Rear disc brakes.
    Different cloth on the seats.
    SR20DE and its transmission and limited slip differential. I think the axles have different splines to fit this transission.
    Fog lights.
    14"x5.5" alloy wheels with 185/60-14 tires. 14"x6" were a dealer option.
    Solid front anti-sway bar; the rear bar may be slightly larger.
    2-door only
    SE-R badge on trunk lid
    Tail lights
These are all direct bolt-ons for any B13. Any 2-door model can be turned into an SE-R that only a VIN search could tell wasn't an SE-R.

Same differences apply to B14 Sentras and SE-Rs except for the 15" wheels.

B14 2.0 SE is unfamiliar territory for me, so no comments.
 

·
bitter old man
Joined
·
1,456 Posts
I haven't actually seen any rear sway bars other than what I held when working on my SE-R, so I defer to you on that.

As for leather, only the steering wheel, shifter boot and shift knob have that...these aren't available on other B13 models?

Sentra SE had spoiler standard and XEs had them available.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
OK, I'm late coming into this, but I'm going to suggest a different approach to autocrossing. Please keep in mind that I've only autocrossed once in the last 20 years (I don't care for it) so take my advice FWIW.

Let's understand a little more about what swaybars do. They do limit body roll, but you must ask yourself the question "what does this do for me and why?"

Body roll does nothing to change total load transfers. What swaybars do is speed up load transfer. While this is not necessarily important on a road course, it's tremendously important on an autocross course where you must change directions much more quickly than on a road course. So, speeding up and stabilizing the load transfer is very important on a autocross course.

If you are serious about autocrossing, I'd not only change my alignment at the event, but I'd change rear springs as well. I'd go with a big front swaybar to help with transitions. I'd get a really bit rear bar and run toe-out in the front. Lastly, I'd get some seriously high rate rear springs to make the car rotate.

This set-up would be downright dangerous anywhere but on an autocross course, so if you got this route, you must make your changes at the event and change springs and alignment back to your street set-up before leaving.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top