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How far can I take it?
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I lubed the tensioner on the seating area and for measure I dump oil on top of it before installing the valve cover.
I'm not sure about over tightening. I guess you'll strip the bolts before you over tighten it.
 

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Over tighten? Not likely. If you did, you'd be looking for more new parts :)
When I put mine in, I soaked it in oil, and "pumped it up" a few times, kinda hoping it would suck some oil into the passages. Whether it helped or not? I dunno. Made me feel a tad better at any rate.
Chain tensioner bad at 115K?
Bad oil, not changing the oil, is about the only thing I can think of. That's not to say that a tensioner couldn't go bad at 115K. It's just that it seems like the average is in the 150K+ range and to get an average, you gotta have lows and highs. You're the lucky one that just happened to be at the low end of the range.
 

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Hi, hope this helps. I've got a similar scenario when I just replaced the upper tensioner (check post#70 here). At first I thought I had a funky upper tensioner replacement, or it's not getting any oil at all. Found out my chains were hitting the 2 upper guides. Removed the upper guides and the noise was still there intermittently. Decided to have the whole timing assembly opened. There I found out that my lower tensioner guide was worn out (worse than my upper tensioner). The upper tensioner and the lower tensioner guide (curved part) has plastic parts that were worn out. To save myself the time and labor cost, had the lower guide, the lower tensioner, the chains, cam sprockets, idler gear, and crankshaft sprocket replaced at that time. Mind you the mechanic told me aside from the lower guide, lower tensioner, and upper tensioner - the rest were still ok to reuse. After that, engine was running smoothly and quietly, and I still used the same brand of 20W50 engine oil.

sorry for the long assed reply, but my guess is it's the lower guide + lower tensioner that you need to check out too.
 

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Mizumo Auto GA16DE Timing Chain Assembly

So. To add to my post from a few weeks back. I've figured out (after getting back into the upper chain) that the tensioner seems fine. My next step is to replace the entire timing chain assembly. Called Nissan. They want over $500 for the kit. As much as I'd like the genuine "Nissan" part thing, I have to admit, I bought my 1995 200sx for $800 and spending $500 on this just isn't going to happen.

I get on line and find all kinds of deals on chain sets. The one that has caught my eye is a Mizumo Auto full chain kit that includes a new water and oil pump. Has all the gaskets, etc. Listed for $183.38 (w/ free shipping). Anyone used this set? Heard about it. The parts numbers translate over to Cloyes and Napa (the same set at Napa is over $300). I'm thinking I should get it.

Also thinking of replacing the coolant hoses as long as I'm in there (draining it). Just replaced the belts about 10,000 ago so they should be fine. Anything else I should consider replacing while I've got this thing torn up?

Any thoughts?
 

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How far can I take it?
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Hmmm... tried to check the part you are ordering. I can't seem to find one on the internet for a ga16de. it lists 2.0 (SR20DE). Anyway, if you're sure its for the 1600 and you're ok with the price do for it. I spent less than $200 for all my parts and fluids. Well, my intake sprocket came from the junk yard :)

Good idea to replace the thermostat, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket (if it has not been replaced recently), everything else should be included in the kit.

Before jumping into the project, check all parts, ESPECIALLY: sprockets and chains - count the teeth and links 10x :) Jdg had a bad experience with his car
 

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91-99 Nissan Sentra 200SX NX1600 1.6 GA16DE DOHC Water Oil Pump Timing Chain Kit | eBay

Plug the above link in (if you're interested). Honestly, the only thing that scares me about this set is how cheap it is. I called the seller. They say they get it directly from the manufacturer (in Taiwan). Well, I'd love Japanese parts but I couldn't hack the $600 or so it would cost. I don't drive much anyway.....

Good advice on the thermostat and oil pan gasket (I planned on doing the gasket as it's the only place I'm leaking oil....finally get to plug it up).
 

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How far can I take it?
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I guess those parts are ok. I didn't replace my oil pump. Water pump and thermostat along with the timing kit. the only thing I see is that the intake cam sprocket you are looking to buy is not the right one. Unless you 1995 sentra is not cvt.
You might be able to use the old part. Just make sure its in good shape. Mine had a few teeth missing. Had to recondition a junkyard part since this sprocket is about $450
 

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Before jumping into the project, check all parts, ESPECIALLY: sprockets and chains - count the teeth and links 10x :) Jdg had a bad experience with his car
That's an understatement! :)

The timing kit linked above, I wouldn't have a problem with buying that one if I had to do another GA16DE.
The only thing I'll say about it is that the top upper chain guide (the one on the very top of the chain and sits horizontally on the engine, not the upper chain tensioner that sits at an angle at the back of the chain) was deleted on the late-98/99 engines due to the extra noise it makes after the upper chain tensioner gets a little bit of wear on it.
My early '98 had the top upper chain guide installed from the factory and I removed it when I had my mess awhile back. As far as I can tell, the 95-99 engines are identical at the timing chain end except for that top upper guide being deleted on the later models.
I don't see any problem with either leaving that upper chain guide in or taking it out, just that from what I've read, like I said, after getting a bit of wear on the tensioner, that upper chain will start to make noise again sooner as the upper chain tensioner wears in and the chain kinda starts 'slapping' that upper chain guide a bit.
 

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Update....Midway through my chain replacement!

Don't know if anyone cares to know but just wanted to repost to those of you who helped me through the upper chain tensioner replacement.

Finally almost done with the teardown to do both chains. Have the oil pan off, most of the "garbage" off the front of the engine, likely remove the power steering pump and then the oil pump (cover) on Friday or Saturday. Do the rebuild on Sunday/Monday.

As a nice side note, I noticed my passenger side drive axle was shot so I get to replace that too! ($49 rebuild one from Cut Rate). I got the seal as well as it was only $11.

Question. The Hayes manual says that there's two copper sealing rings on the power steering pump that need to be replaced after you remove the pump. Anyone familiar with those? The parts store wasn't. I suppose I'll see them when I take it off.....

***I noticed that a bunch of guys were able to replace the upper guide and eliminate their "noise" (I wasn't.....mine made more noise). FYI. When I spoke with a Nissan mechanic a few weeks back he stated that if the top one is wasted it's about 90% sure that the lower ones are wasted too. Just a thought.***

I'll let you know how the rebuild goes.
 

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How far can I take it?
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FYI. When I spoke with a Nissan mechanic a few weeks back he stated that if the top one is wasted it's about 90% sure that the lower ones are wasted too. Just a thought.***

I'll let you know how the rebuild goes.
nope, not true. at least for me. My sprockets were very worn down, the top and intermediate one that was connected to the top. Everything at the bottom was ok. I replaced them too because the parts are available in the kit and there was no extra effort at that point. The plastic guides were about half worn, the lower tensioner was ok.
 

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btw, I didn't need to remove the power steering pump. just a bracket that was bolted to the front cover
 

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x2 on the above.
Haven't heard or seen a lot of people that have had to mess with the lower tensioner, much less remove the P/S pump, just loosen is up to get the belts off, and as said, get the bracket out of the way.
 

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Done Changing Chains on my 1995 Nissan 200sx (GA16DE)!!!!

Thanks for all the encouragement, help, direction to find that Nissan Technical Bulletin, and "life experience" stories I got off this website. It helped me work up the guts to tackle this job (with help from my neighbor). It only took me 3 months and seven days to amass the parts I needed (complete chain kit....see previous post, new water pump, new thermostat, gasket sets for everything, new coolant, an engine hoist [borrowed!], an air compressor and air tools (borrowed), and a few six packs).

Frankly, the job is a royal pain in the butt. Really. I don't wish it on anyone. If you follow the technical bulletin and Hayes (I did) they have you remove the power steering pump bracket, the alternator and a/c compressor (and bracket), the power steering resovoir, and the middle engine support (the long one under the oil pan). You really don't need to remove all those (though it does make installation much easier!). Live and learn. I'd suggest just looking at all the stuff, study where the front cover is, and make your best call on what you need to remove.

An important point (on my job anyway). The VCT WAS NOT included in the parts set I bought. I thought the sprocket that came with the set could be retrofit onto it (it can't). I called around for prices and, when I found out how much the VCT was (jesus, it's like $400!!!), I just reinstalled the old one. Everything else (sprockets, chains, guides, etc.) is new in that baby. I was a little nervous when I was going to start it yesterday (old VCT and all) but the engine sounds and runs show room new as near as I can tell (a little over 30 miles on it since the job)! I even got rid of a tad bit of hesitation the car had on starting from a stop (still haven't tracked down the little "shudder" I have on initial startup though). Any posts on that problem out there? Fuel pump, maybe?

For the record, my lower chain, guide, and sprocket looked great as a previous poster assumed they would. I thought they'd be shot. I could have just left the lower portion but, I figured I got all the way down there so why not replace? Only the top half showed any wear (chain and tensioner, anyway). One of the sprockets (the "idler" sprocket) showed a bit of wear but the other two (VCT and exhaust sprockets) looked great. The old chain was a bit more loose than the new one.

All in all. Worth the money (a bit over $200) and time to do it myself rather than pay the shop over $1,000.

Side note. This is the first time I've taken off an oil drain pan. Why in the hell are they built to hold that much oil even after they're emptied!?! Must have been half a quart left in the dang thing! Pretty black oil too. Hate to think that stays in the engine even though I change oil every 3,000..... Oh, there were also some plastic chunks from my upper tensioner too! Felt good to see those go away!

Thanks again all!
 

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Great thread with pics!!!
Did you have to replace entire timing chain set-up or did you just go with replacing the tensioner?
How many miles did it have before the fix and have you had any problems with it since?
Current miles?
Thanks for your help, man!!!
 

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Timing Chain

I had to replace the entire timing chain setup.......

My daughter ran the poor little thing dry of oil and all but fried the chains (no valve damage though!). Been running great since (now has about 145,000 miles on it). It had 115,000 miles on it when I had to do it. Shouldn't need it until about 200,000 if you keep the oil changed.

Well, after seeing the lower part of the set I probably didn't NEED to replace it for a while but I figured we dug all the way down there so I better replace it. It's a lot of work.

I hope to never have to do it again!
 

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Great post. Changed the upper timing chain tensioner in about an hour. It was completely worn down to the metal. Now she runs very quiet and smooth.
Thanks to you all

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Can we get the pictures back?

Jason
You can see how much wear the plastic has suffered. Wow what a big difference with the new tensioner installed. The car is much smoother and quieter now!











can someone bring the pictures back? i have 140k on my GA16 and i'm noticing this diesel-like rattle at idle and this might be the chain, tensioner, and/or guides.
and to make matters worse, i just replaced the distributor about a week ago due to a crank-no-start condition. No spark on that as well.

Thanks.


I too would like to see the pics
this may be coming soon on my 200SX SE:crying:
 

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more tech tips pleease!..I'm a real dork when it comes to cars and i've been pulling my hair to know other things just to make my Baby in top condition. I've been there, done that but i always ends up fixing a new problem everytime i go under the hood!

thanks a lot!!
 
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