2001 3.5 pathfinder having issues starting after going on short trips. It starts fine and runs fine when cold but if I’m running to the gym when I come out it won’t start, Just cranks. If I leave it for a few hours it starts right up again. It threw a P0340 camshaft position sensor code so I replaced it started up fine went to the store and came out to a no start again. It was a Standard Motor Product sensor which are usually pretty good quality but wondering if I need to go OEM as it threw the code after it started again and I drive it home. It just makes no sense to me because it start up and runs fine until I turn it off then won’t start again until it sits for a couple hours
Snerz
When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $120. Inspect the harness connectors on all the sensors for any oxidation or loose connections. Insure that any water resistant connector is in good condition; if the seals have been compromised, then any water intrusion can cause intermittent problems.
The CKP's and CMP's on late model Nissans are Hall Effect types. When Halls get weak, they often start "missing teeth" on the tone wheel at cranking speeds but work fine once the engine fires and the wheel is moving faster. If you install an aftermarket sensor and it sounds like it's still acting up with a long cranking of the starter (with no codes or a crank sensor code) is usually a sign of a sensor with insufficient reluctance, which doesn't trigger properly at cranking speed but does once the car fires and the reluctor wheel spins faster. It's common for cheap aftermarket CKP's and CMP's to misbehave that way.
The CKP's and CMP's on late model Nissans are Hall Effect types. When Halls get weak, they often start "missing teeth" on the tone wheel at cranking speeds but work fine once the engine fires and the wheel is moving faster. If you install an aftermarket sensor and it sounds like it's still acting up with a long cranking of the starter (with no codes or a crank sensor code) is usually a sign of a sensor with insufficient reluctance, which doesn't trigger properly at cranking speed but does once the car fires and the reluctor wheel spins faster. It's common for cheap aftermarket CKP's and CMP's to misbehave that way.
So I replaced the sensor with one and same issue but now I don’t think that was the issue. It throws the code when I have to crank on it for awhile to try and get it to start and that must be due to starter turning over engine slower than when it’s running. If I go out the next day it starts right up with no code. It’s only after a 10 or 15 minute trip and engine gets warm that it won’t start back up. So it’s definitely fuel related. I have replaced both the fuel pressure regulator and fuel damper. It runs perfect from a cold start no missing or hesitation. I wonder if it is a bad engine coolant sensor sending the signal it’s still cold when it’s warm and flooding the engine. I hate to keep throwing parts at it but I’m at a loss on why it won’t start when warm.
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