So I'm starting my 4x4 project (98 SE Pathfinder). I have "some" idea of what I need/want to do. Any help by you more experienced guys would be greatly appreciated. So I want bigger tires (thinkin 31's) with more meat on them then my normal SUV tires. I looked at some Dick Cepek fun country tires with some new wheels. Now I know the tires can't be too big to avoid rubbing, which brings me to the next thing on my list... How do I raise it up a bit (2-4")? whats involved in a suspension lift? Just springs, shock/struts or do i need to lengthen the brake lines and other components? I'm having problems finding kits for this year too. So I'm wondering if all I need is longer/harder springs shocks? or is raising the body a better option? whats involved in that? Sooo many questions, thanks for the help guys!
Starting 4x4 Mods
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Your R50 is a unibody, so body lift is not possible...
There is a suspension lift available from 4x4parts.com, it consists of stock length (pretty close) springs that have a higher spring rate to achieve 2-3" of lift. The front struts cannot extend any further and there are no good solutions to that at this point. You can get extended Rancho shocks to give you an extra 2" of extension with the lift...31" is the most you can go but be wary of backspacing...If you want more detailed info come on over to Nissan Pathfinder Off-Road Association (Powered by Invision Power Board) it has a wealth of information on any topic you can think of...
There is a suspension lift available from 4x4parts.com, it consists of stock length (pretty close) springs that have a higher spring rate to achieve 2-3" of lift. The front struts cannot extend any further and there are no good solutions to that at this point. You can get extended Rancho shocks to give you an extra 2" of extension with the lift...31" is the most you can go but be wary of backspacing...If you want more detailed info come on over to Nissan Pathfinder Off-Road Association (Powered by Invision Power Board) it has a wealth of information on any topic you can think of...
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Yes you can, there is a CAD drawing floating around on the R50 part of that site that you can take to a machine shop and have made. Max I would go with a regular lift (meaning the coils, not a subframe drop) would be 1", which I have. Make sure you sandwich the spacer between the upper and lower mounting plates so you dont put too much of an angle on the CV axles while the struts are fully extended.
Here is my 97 with 31x10.50R15 tires, AC lift coils and 1" strut spacer up front.
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Here is my 97 with 31x10.50R15 tires, AC lift coils and 1" strut spacer up front.
See that looks awesome... Not too agressive, but not your mother inlaws grocery getter (I inherited mine from the inlaws ;-)
Ok so I need to look for OEM replacement shocks and struts, either AC or OME coils, 1" spacer specs to take to a machine shop, and strut topper bearings?
Now what are these Warn hubs? do I need them for light offroading (camping, showing off, took wrong turn, etc?)
Ok so I need to look for OEM replacement shocks and struts, either AC or OME coils, 1" spacer specs to take to a machine shop, and strut topper bearings?
Now what are these Warn hubs? do I need them for light offroading (camping, showing off, took wrong turn, etc?)
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Well most people prefer KYB GR-2 struts and rancho rear shocks, which is the setup I have and really like the ride. There are many other brands available so you can change those up if you want. I would replace the strut bearings when you replace the struts, but DO NOT use the KYB ones, go to the dealer and get OEM, there have been many horror stories with the KYB. Head on over to NPORA since all of this has been discussed in detail over there...
On the subject of hubs, there are four types that will work on the R50: Mille Marker (had on my 97, $100), Warn (have on my 01, $150), AVM (wanted to try but the Warns were barely any more and they are proven), and Nissan OEM hubs that were used on the Hardbody's with a 28 spline count, which I believe was only V6's (I have no desire to rebuild the hub even though I hear these are very strong and cheap at the JY). The main benefits of hubs are threefold: 1. better mileage (between 1-2 on my R50's), 2. The Warn specifically is designed to have a cheap and easy to replace ring break BEFORE your CV axles will, and 3. If you have CV or front diff failure on the trail you can disconnect the front driveline to get off the trail
On the subject of hubs, there are four types that will work on the R50: Mille Marker (had on my 97, $100), Warn (have on my 01, $150), AVM (wanted to try but the Warns were barely any more and they are proven), and Nissan OEM hubs that were used on the Hardbody's with a 28 spline count, which I believe was only V6's (I have no desire to rebuild the hub even though I hear these are very strong and cheap at the JY). The main benefits of hubs are threefold: 1. better mileage (between 1-2 on my R50's), 2. The Warn specifically is designed to have a cheap and easy to replace ring break BEFORE your CV axles will, and 3. If you have CV or front diff failure on the trail you can disconnect the front driveline to get off the trail
Alrighty, I've been surfing the other site as much as I can, they've locked me out I think until my registration goes through. (from my year of Pathfinder area at least)
Ok so the Warn Hub is a manual locking hub (the old style that you get out and lock both pass. and DS by hand)? Which is fine by me, just trying to absorb as much info as I can.
Ok so the Warn Hub is a manual locking hub (the old style that you get out and lock both pass. and DS by hand)? Which is fine by me, just trying to absorb as much info as I can.
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Yes they are, a simple turn of the dial is all it takes...And I believe they only block you from posting, but you can read all u want until they register you...
I don't even have the option to go into the section of the forum with my year pathfinder in it. But if I go in as a guest I can go where ever I want, just can't post. Getting alot of info off of these sites thats for sure. Looks like I'm going with KYB GR-2 Struts, Rancho 99010 Shocks, OME Springs (Do I just order them from the OME website?), probably going to get the spacers from NX industries (unless I can find the drawings) and the Strut bearings from the dealership. Sound like I have all my bases covered? haha
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The part number for the Ranchos is RS999010XL I believe, it is the rear shock for the Rancho lifted Durango, Im the one who had to find that info out. I can tell you the OME will NOT give you more than 1" of lift, and when they settle maybe 3/4". The member with the spacer drawings name is tmorgan4, PM him and he will email you the drawings.
The only other things I would consider while you are doing this are:
1.Manual Hubs, I think they are worth every penny
2.Polyurethane control arm bushings, R50s are notorious for the "death wobble" when the stock bushings go bad
3.Sway bar end links, all 4 of mine needed replacing when I lifted
4.Camber adjustment bolts from Ingalls Engineering, I bought my set at Summit Racing. You will need to replace the top bolt on the knuckle/lower strut mount with this to correct the camber, if you have a choice get the +/-2 degrees.
The only other things I would consider while you are doing this are:
1.Manual Hubs, I think they are worth every penny
2.Polyurethane control arm bushings, R50s are notorious for the "death wobble" when the stock bushings go bad
3.Sway bar end links, all 4 of mine needed replacing when I lifted
4.Camber adjustment bolts from Ingalls Engineering, I bought my set at Summit Racing. You will need to replace the top bolt on the knuckle/lower strut mount with this to correct the camber, if you have a choice get the +/-2 degrees.
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422 Posts
My 97 had the 2" lift coils out back and the 2" lift coils plus the 1" strut spacer up front after everything settled. I don't have any pics of the OME setup, youll have to search for that
Did you change your shocks and struts whe nyou did the coils, or is it necessary? Mine are relatively new(ish)Yes you can, there is a CAD drawing floating around on the R50 part of that site that you can take to a machine shop and have made. Max I would go with a regular lift (meaning the coils, not a subframe drop) would be 1", which I have. Make sure you sandwich the spacer between the upper and lower mounting plates so you dont put too much of an angle on the CV axles while the struts are fully extended.
Here is my 97 with 31x10.50R15 tires, AC lift coils and 1" strut spacer up front.
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. And i'm cheap. My back fender is about .5" lower than my front... how normal is that?1 - 14 of 14 Posts
