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Discussion Starter #3
another quick update wiring is a major pain well i made it a major pain goin at it with a chainsaw, i removed alott of stuff remove interlock relay and a stack of wires that came from the ecu, completly rewiring ingnition fuel pump and the accessories ex:lights cigarette lighter things that mainly need power. the motor came already wired with ecu so that just needs ignition and power to the ecu (about 7 wires) easily found schematics on google, also downloaded the f.s.m so i should be about set.


BOUGHT NISMO MOTOR MOUNTS FOR THE SR KA SWAP THAT DIDNT WORK!!!!!!!

nismo mounts mods "if done":the mounts that are on the motor will have to be notched and holes would have to be drilled to make mounts work on hardbody frame. all in all they wont work without major mods too me!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
okay after about a month of staring at the wireing diagram i realized that it was only half right. my wires where all messed up they would change colors halfway through the dash!!!! so i said some bad stuff kicked the side panel and RIPPED it all out with no concern bad idea!! so i mellowed out and decided that replaceing everything with clear speaker wire would work, yea thats right im using speaker wire lmao. so today i feel like i have finally accomplished something i got the wire for ignition to the starter and the headlight wires tucked behind the fenders and ran to the fusebox also relocated fuel pump relay and soon headlamp relay right on the fuse block, as most of you realize there are two available relay spots on the late model. this has made my engine bay alot cleaner, other then spending 4hours looking for a non existent wiper amp and getting sick from staring at wires it is going rather smooth one wire at a time. pics comin soon!!!!!
 

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Great project Just wire up the engine to the ecu for it's vital info needed to run! Then on the chassis side such as the cigarette lighter, the headlights,etc; keep that original HB! You may have to minimize what you need from each harness such as the powertrain/engine harness of the HB I would remove. All the chassis stuff in the SR20 I would remove and use only the powertrain/engine harness items absolutely needed to run, screw all the unused options! You'll lose a little weight and hair in the process but take you time man... you're on your own schedule, no one else's! I've worked on a project for over 2 yrs just to make sure I covered every aspect of all my mods and fitment! It's yours and screw those trying to rush you...... Keep up the good work...As far as rearend I would be searching for a HD D21 V6 cargo truck or 4x4 V6 D21.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yea that is exactly the way it is. someone on youtube said the same thing 4x4 rear, i love my hardbody and want to basicly restore the truck to its original minus motor,
i would have liked to include the motor but??? hard to believe that there isnt a page made just for the hardbody from lowrider to rock climber!!!!! that would be nice, thanks back to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
alright sorry no pics yet have taken a break on wires till i get my radiator for my initial start should be here on the 25th have been spending countless hours researching options for front suspension; FINALLY GOT THE TRANS BOLTED HAD TO ADD 3INCHES IN BETWEEN TRANS AND MOUNT, NEW PROBLEM NOW OIL PAN LAYS ON SWAY BAR.
swaybar must be removed/replaced otherwise damage may occur with stock mounts. also trans shifter hole must be modded. (new hole cut old hole covered)
 

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lower the midsectional bushings and shorten your endlink hardware. You can easily add 1" spacer between the midsectional bushings and the frame, you can then shorten the endlink bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
good idea cmax i will try that, pics will be up in the next couple days HERES SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT IF U BUY PULLEYS THEN STOCK BELTS PROLLY WONT WORK!!!!!! i am extending the EAI control solenoid and boost pressure solenoid wires, this is because my engine harness runs directly into the cab. so i said wires/vacuum? and decided that wires would be better than 3foot vacuum hose inside the cab. i will leave the ignitor chip inside the cab, and the ecu placement looks to be passenger floor somewhere unless i can stretch wires to under center dash.
 
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