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ex-Super *********
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Ok, the way I understand it, small exhaust ports keep velocity high. A good thing, right? Are the exhaust ports of a Bluebird DET the apropriate size for say.. a 300WHP turbo set up? If so do you suggest a simple smoothing and ceramic coating of the ports from the valve to the exit?
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
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PatScottAKA99XE said:
Ok, the way I understand it, small exhaust ports keep velocity high. A good thing, right? Are the exhaust ports of a Bluebird DET the apropriate size for say.. a 300WHP turbo set up? If so do you suggest a simple smoothing and ceramic coating of the ports from the valve to the exit?
Like I said in my other post, for 300 hp, you don't need to do a thing to the motors long block. Your greatest gains would be JWT S3 cams and adjustable timing gears. Adavnce the exhaust cam 2.5-5 degrees and you are good to go. You don't even need that though. High 300's are posible with no work at all to the motor.

Mike
 

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ex-Super *********
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Discussion Starter #3
*Enjoying Mike's knowlage*
Thanks again Mike.
So I take it the great SR20 can handle 300hp without breaking a sweat. Boy am I getting excited!!
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
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PatScottAKA99XE said:
*Enjoying Mike's knowlage*
Thanks again Mike.
So I take it the great SR20 can handle 300hp without breaking a sweat. Boy am I getting excited!!
Yup, thats why I love that motor so much!

Mike
 
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it can actually handle upwards of 350 HP without breaking a sweat... there are numerous examples of completely stock SR20DE motors pushing above 400 HP at the wheels. The DET is even better set up for that though, with piston coolers, lower compression ratio, things like that.

For 300 HP, don't worry about doing anything to the motor other than maybe just running compression and leakdown tests on it to make sure it's in good shape.
 

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ex-Super *********
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys,
Yes I will do the compression and leak-down checks. Any other engine health checks you can can tell me? I have always used the 2 above, is there some that I am forgeting?
 
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Not unless you want to open up the bottom end and check your rod bearings for wear. In the past, there have been a lot of cases where somebody put a DET in their SE-R and it spun a bearing a couple weeks (or days) later. It happened to me once, and it's happened to other people I know.

Conventional wisdom on this issue is just to replace the bearings with new ones when you get the motor, before you install it. It could save you the pain of replacing the bearings later after the motor is in the car. On the other hand, there are a number of people who have done the DET swap and had no bearing troubles. I tend to see it as Russian Roulette. :)

Other than that, you should be okay, assuming you check the engine over for obvious stuff like damaged hoses, distrubutor cap and rotor, plugs and wires, that sort of thing. If you're going to use the stock turbo for a while, check the turbine shaft play. If it moves around noticably, then it'll probably have to be rebuilt. if it moves very little, then you're probably okay.
 

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One and only (sr20)
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I once had a ga16, even though it was able to go 300hp I wanted about 600hp, so the ga16 was not cutting it . The sr20 is able to have 400hp easy with no engine mods. Think about it the stock crank shaft can handle 600hp with out a stress. On most honda's that is first to go!!
 
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