[stevja1]

I am starting a new job on monday that will pay twice what I make now. I will also have my car loan paid off by april. I would still like a solution that is cheaper though, but fits the situation.

My exisiting motor has about 150 psi on all four cylinders. I think if I put a hotshot turbo on it, I would blow it up or something.

The question: Do I swap a new GA motor in and then buy a turbo; swap in an SR20 motor and then buy a turbo, or just sell my car and buy a 99 Sentra SE (are those rare and hard to find with low mileage?) I don't feel terribly confident in doing the swap myself. The most complicated thing I've done on my car is clean the throttle body, (and maybe install halo headlights... wiring those things is a pain in the butt.)

The situation: My friend is buying a new 05 Mustang GT next year. I want my car to still be able to beat his. I have about 15 months. The specs on that are:

0-60 in 5.2
1/4 mile in 13.8
curb weight at 3523lbs
300 bhp
320 lbft tq

I've searched around and it seems most people favor the turbo GA vs doing an SR swap. I also noticed that the turbo GA usually doesn't make enough power to get past 60mph in under 6.

My conclusion is that the SR20 swap would be in order, with a turbo later. What do you guys think?

 

[Acceler8ter]

Why do the turbo on the GA? Just go get an SR20Det. Problem solved. Comes with a factory turbo. An S13 SR20Det is rated 205 horses while the S14 (Or maybe it was the S15) is rated at 215. That's stock. Upgrade to a slightly larger turbo and you'll easily pushing out over 250 horses and you haven't even gotten started on one of these things yet. You can pull over 500 horses out of these things. The downside is plan on paying at least $2,500 for an S14 ($1,000-$2,500 for an S13).

Just buy a front clip with the motor so you know how to hook everything up. If I get this '96 Sentra GXE I'm looking at that's my plan.

You'd walk all over that 'stang. You'd have almost the same amount of power in a car that weighs almost half as much. Replace some body parts with Carbon Fiber and that gap keeps growing. Better brush up on those driving skills. :thumbup:

Edit: Sorry but I just noticed you live in Orem. That's awesome. I live up in Roy. =)

 

[BadBoy91]

Why do the turbo on the GA? Just go get an SR20Det. Problem solved. Comes with a factory turbo. An S13 SR20Det is rated 205 horses while the S14 (Or maybe it was the S15) is rated at 215. That's stock. Upgrade to a slightly larger turbo and you'll easily pushing out over 250 horses and you haven't even gotten started on one of these things yet. You can pull over 500 horses out of these things. The downside is plan on paying at least $2,500 for an S14 ($1,000-$2,500 for an S13).

Just buy a front clip with the motor so you know how to hook everything up. If I get this '96 Sentra GXE I'm looking at that's my plan.

You'd walk all over that 'stang. You'd have almost the same amount of power in a car that weighs almost half as much. Replace some body parts with Carbon Fiber and that gap keeps growing. Better brush up on those driving skills. :thumbup:

Edit: Sorry but I just noticed you live in Orem. That's awesome. I live up in Roy. =)

hey i dont want to rag yall to hard but you cannot use a RWD SR20 in a FWD.
There are motors available to go in to FWD cars like the Bluebird or GTi-R motors. Dont buy a GTi-R though, USDM parts dont crossover. The reason you cant use a RWD ie S13 S14 motor is because the mounts and and distributor are located in different places than a FWD.
In response to stevja's question; sell the GXE and find a 98-99 Sentra SE. they are fairly abundant. milage doesn't matter if you swap the motor, and dont buy an Automatic cuz its pointless. You can find um all day for less than 7 g's. If you start off with a SR20 powered car the harness will line right up, makes the swap real easy, no wiring mess like witha GA16 car.
its not hard to find info on these swaps so do a little research before you do anything, OK?
later

 

[BadBoy91]

also one more thing, Check out www.sr20store.com, the guys name is Marco Vargas hey is real helpful and fair prices, you can find them cheaper but you get what you pay for. i ve delt with him several time and he is one of the best.

 

[Acceler8ter]

I heard an SR20Det out of a Pulsar would drop right in. I just classified the motors as S13, 14, & 15 because it's much easier.

Or is the Pulsar RWD as well?

 

[chimmike]

what scion did you race dude. there are 3 models. be specific.

 

[Nismo1997]

I got a BB, PM

 

[wes]

OK this same topic has been brought up countless times and the long and short is that you have to decide yourself. IMHO this is not a decision you ask others to make for you.

Simply make a pro/con list and figure it out. If your not sure about specifics do some research on both setups (there is plenty of source material) and then do your list.

Also the GTI-R is AWD, it will work however you will need a FWD SR20 tranny and all of the other necessary SR20 parts to make it work.

And when you say S13,14,15 you are naming the chassis code for different 240SX's/Silvia's and it really has nothing to do with the motor itself.

 

[Acceler8ter]

And when you say S13,14,15 you are naming the chassis code for different 240SX's/Silvia's and it really has nothing to do with the motor itself.

I do know that, I was refering to which chassis the motor came out of. There are differences between all 3 motors. The S13 has a red top motor and the S14 & 15 are both black tops but put out different power levels. I do it for simplicity reasons. Every book I've read that deals with the motors also refers to it by a chassis code because of the 3 different power-rated motors.

Ive done quite a bit of research on the motors. Are you gonna try to tell me there's no difference between the years of the motors and I should just classify them all as the samething? I don't know about you but I'd rather have a classification of if a motor has several different power ratings depending on which chassis you pull it out of.

 

[I'm tired of my usernamee]

well you did tell him to use a RWD engine in his front wheel drive car so................

 

[wes]

I do know that, I was refering to which chassis the motor came out of. There are differences between all 3 motors. The S13 has a red top motor and the S14 & 15 are both black tops but put out different power levels. I do it for simplicity reasons. Every book I've read that deals with the motors also refers to it by a chassis code because of the 3 different power-rated motors.

Ive done quite a bit of research on the motors. Are you gonna try to tell me there's no difference between the years of the motors and I should just classify them all as the samething? I don't know about you but I'd rather have a classification of if a motor has several different power ratings depending on which chassis you pull it out of.

I understand your logic and NO I am not telling you they are all the same, believe me I know the differences. What I meant by the chassis code comment is that not all of those chassis use an SR20DE-T as in the states they came with the A24 and overseas they have NA SR20's in some of the silvia's.

I guess it doesn;t matter though as we are talking about a FWD setup here.

 

[IanH]

I understand your logic and NO I am not telling you they are all the same, believe me I know the differences. What I meant by the chassis code comment is that not all of those chassis use an SR20DE-T as in the states they came with the A24 and overseas they have NA SR20's in some of the silvia's.

I guess it doesn;t matter though as we are talking about a FWD setup here.

Even with the HP can you really get under 5.2 0-60 with FWD ?
This is EVO and WRX type performance.
Just wondering the best a SER or Sentra has done 0-60???

 

[CHRIS/SR/SE]

I would turbo charge the GA16DE over Buying a SR20DE car. If your GA is almost paid off you can spend that money on parts, whereas if you buy a SR powered car you have to pay it off first and then modify it. A turbo GA will beat a naturally asperated SR any day, I doesn't need much. On a side note the SR20DET swap sound like a good idea, just keep in mind that you won't be done after buying one. You still need a ECU, intercooler (or at least piping to run the stock top mound intercooler) mounts and a few other things. The GA turbo would be the cheapest.

 

[stevja1]

Thanks for all the replies. I honestly thought I would get flamed more than that... but you guys all gave some useful input. I appreciate it.

Intercooler piping isn't a big deal. I know how to weld, and I'm in with a local muffler shop with a bender. The thing I'm worried about in the swap is getting all the stuff I need put together, because I'll be without a car for a few weeks. I'm also a little intimidated by wiring the whole mess.

I'm just trying to put together a long term plan for the car. The one I used to have was the way it is now, but next comes the 5spd, and then the turbo, but with the compression being as it is, I don't want to go that route anymore.

Is it really difficult to get an SR20 past 300 hp? The hp/weight ratio on the mustang is 11.74. My car with 200 hp would be 13, (B14s weigh in at 2600 right?), so unless I had really light wheels and drive train, the mustang would still be faster. I figure I need at least 225whp or so to keep up. That is why I'm kind of shying away from a GA turbo setup. I realize that the project b14 was doing around 230 with the turbo cams and ECU program, but in my mind, they have basically maxed out that car, and within a few years it wont be running at that power. With an SR, I could at least upgrade the turbo after a while.

I was thinking last night, how well do SR20VEs handle boost? They get amazing HP NA, and I was thinking it wouldn't take much to get it where I want it. I'm going to research it right now....

*EDIT* K... im done researching. SR20VE doesn't look like a good option. Really expensive and unexplored territory.

Where is a good place to look for used Sentras? I've tried the newspaper classifieds, ebay, the classified on nissanforums, and a few dealers around here. Most of the Sentras are 2000+ or 96-97. I didn't know there was a 98 Sentra SE. Do all the SEs come with 5spds?

To Acceler8ter: It's nice to see other people from Utah once in a while. There aren't a lot on here. Most are either east or west coasters.

To IanH: I am also interested in the fastest SE-R times. I have a 240Zx on my wall that put out 400bhp and had a top speed of 170 mph. It had an SR20 bored to 2.1 liters with (im sure) a number of other major mods.

To chimmike: The Scion was an xB. It looked and sounded stock. A 1.6 with exhaust, advanced timing, and pulley got beat by a stock 1.5 with three people in it. That's what bugs me the most. After the race, the guy turned and laughed... burn.....

 

[wes]

Thanks for all the replies. I honestly thought I would get flamed more than that... but you guys all gave some useful input. I appreciate it.

Intercooler piping isn't a big deal. I know how to weld, and I'm in with a local muffler shop with a bender. The thing I'm worried about in the swap is getting all the stuff I need put together, because I'll be without a car for a few weeks. I'm also a little intimidated by wiring the whole mess.

I'm just trying to put together a long term plan for the car. The one I used to have was the way it is now, but next comes the 5spd, and then the turbo, but with the compression being as it is, I don't want to go that route anymore.

Is it really difficult to get an SR20 past 300 hp? The hp/weight ratio on the mustang is 11.74. My car with 200 hp would be 13, (B14s weigh in at 2600 right?), so unless I had really light wheels and drive train, the mustang would still be faster. I figure I need at least 225whp or so to keep up. That is why I'm kind of shying away from a GA turbo setup. I realize that the project b14 was doing around 230 with the turbo cams and ECU program, but in my mind, they have basically maxed out that car, and within a few years it wont be running at that power. With an SR, I could at least upgrade the turbo after a while.

Where is a good place to look for used Sentras? I've tried the newspaper classifieds, ebay, the classified on nissanforums, and a few dealers around here. Most of the Sentras are 2000+ or 96-97. I didn't know there was a 98 Sentra SE. Do all the SEs come with 5spds?



.

The SR20 can support 300WHP without any problems provided you have proper fuel.

Not all 98's SE's are 5 speeds, some are auto's. And the 99 SE-L's are the same.

 

[stevja1]

By proper fuel, I assume you're talking about 92 or better octane, or something else? (100+ octane???)

 

[BadBoy91]

By proper fuel, I assume you're talking about 92 or better octane, or something else? (100+ octane???)

i think by "proper Fuel" he ment fuel pump and injector size
Like i said earlier if you start with an SR car it will be cost effective and painless. I honestly think that Swaping a turbo engine is better than a turbo kit. You wouldn't have to worry about compression (8.3:1 on turbo motors, 9.5:1 USDM N/A), you dont have to worry about Fuel injectors (390ccm turbo motors), and the vehicles Factory harness lines right up in SR cars.
Also you can build power eaisly in an SR20, and cheaply. like if you were to remove the BOV intake return line (allowing the BOV to dump atmoshpereically) you can gain 15-20hp right there, FREE! not to mention it will sometimes spit a little flame when you shift. Exhaust mods are cheap too. anyway my point is that turbo motors are resposive to little things here an there. :thumbup:

 

[wes]

i think by "proper Fuel" he ment fuel pump and injector size
Like i said earlier if you start with an SR car it will be cost effective and painless. I honestly think that Swaping a turbo engine is better than a turbo kit. You wouldn't have to worry about compression (8.3:1 on turbo motors, 9.5:1 USDM N/A), you dont have to worry about Fuel injectors (390ccm turbo motors), and the vehicles Factory harness lines right up in SR cars.
Also you can build power eaisly in an SR20, and cheaply. like if you were to remove the BOV intake return line (allowing the BOV to dump atmoshpereically) you can gain 15-20hp right there, FREE! not to mention it will sometimes spit a little flame when you shift. Exhaust mods are cheap too. anyway my point is that turbo motors are resposive to little things here an there. :thumbup:

Mostly good advice. However the NAsr20 can support Big HP regardless of compression, over 400WHP on the stock bottom end. Also they have 370cc injectors while the pulsar GTi-R motors have 440cc injectors.

Lastly you WILL NOT gain 20 HP by removing the recirc pipe. You will gain the fast and the furious sound so many people seem to pay too much attention too.

And yes I meant FUEL DELIVERY... As in injectors, pump, rail, and FPR.

 

[stevja1]

Mostly good advice. However the NAsr20 can support Big HP regardless of compression, over 400WHP on the stock bottom end. Also they have 370cc injectors while the pulsar GTi-R motors have 440cc injectors.

Lastly you WILL NOT gain 20 HP by removing the recirc pipe. You will gain the fast and the furious sound so many people seem to pay too much attention too.

And yes I meant FUEL DELIVERY... As in injectors, pump, rail, and FPR.

Got it... good information to know. It sounds like the turbo version of the motor has more potential for power, (lower compression ratio, and better injectors). The problem is, it costs a heck of a lot more.

I don't care about the sound. I actually want it to be a sleeper. I'll have exhaust for sure, and 99 SE bumpers in the end, but i hope it wont look or sound like I've got a turbo.

At this point, I think im leaning toward buying an engine and swapping it. I love my car, and I don't know if I want to try and buy another. (Unless I could find one at a dealership and trade mine in).

What kind of mods are required to get to 400?

Thanks...

 

[Acceler8ter]

I don't really see how an SR20DET coming out of RWD car makes a difference. I understand it's a different transmission setup and such and would call for some (if not quite a bit) of customization to make it work. Also can't you someway get a transverse type motor? That would call for a straight drop in now wouldn't? I'm not sure if you can a transverse setup though, maybe I should have thought about that earlier.