[98sr20ve]

Lets lay some groundwork first. First, the SR16VE is basically the same as a SR20VE as far as a swap is concerned, second you are going to need to do all of the same things that you normally do to swap in a sr20 into a ga16 car. Other then that the swap is pretty easy. I have a complete writeup on it in the VE section of sr20deforum.com. Look for the Sticky. I swaped a sr20ve into my 98 SE.

 

[98sr20ve]

If you want a 1/4 mile car AND a daily driver I would say go turbo. Weight is the problem with the B14's and chasing a 2100lbs civic with a better engine but 400 lbs more weight is tough. I have run a [email protected] with street tires and weighing 2485 (no driver). Even with street tires a 14.2-.4 is achievable with my car. I just not interested too much in the 1/4 mile world. This thing is great for the autocross. Lots of low end torque and plenty of high end power. I have H/I/E on it now and put down 180whp.

 

[98sr20ve]

The GA does not have VVL in same same manner as a VE. It varies the timing of the cams as the rpm changes. The VE actually has 2 cam profiles. To compare a GA to a VE is like compareing the 4 cylinder mustang to the V8 stang. It a different world (and I have owned 2 GA16 cars). My redline is 7700rpm and I currently get max power at 7200rpm. It holds pretty strong to 7700rpm.

Ignore the dip in power at 5000rpm. I have tuned that out now. A VE is not the ideal choice for a turbo because it has 11:1 compression and a ton of overlap in the cam profile. It would take more work to properly turbo a ve then to start with a DE. After a point in a FWD car you reach a point of saturation for the front tires. This is very easy to do with a mild DET in our cars. In other words just go DET if you are going turbo.