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504 Posts
Spec v Cams any special TOOL?
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504 Posts
Well it turned out that my cheap tools that I bought after mine were stolen sucked it up and the 17mm socket was actually stretched. Thanks for the ideas and help, this sight is great and friendly too :bs:
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871 Posts
how'd the install go? I did not see this post asking for help, try posting in the right location, you'll get better answers and faster.
Let us know about those cams. And if you left the site because you posted in the wrong place, dont let the door hit you in the ass on the way out smart guy.
Let us know about those cams. And if you left the site because you posted in the wrong place, dont let the door hit you in the ass on the way out smart guy.
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504 Posts
I thought I posted in B-15/ QR25 and that would be fine. MY BAD. I was a little ticked off because I had everything apart and I thought I needed a special tool all of a sudden like with the flywheel, and nobody tells you these things when they sell them to you. When I do business I wouldn't want any of my customers to have any surprises. Plus I e-mailed and called the sellers to see why the intake cam and the exhaust cam both had the plate part on the end of the cam for the camshaft position sensor to read. Only the intake cam needs it. I got a stupid answer 2 days later that had nothing to do with my question so I was a little more upset. I hope nobody took it personal.
About the cams: When setting the timing marks right you might have to rotate the crank several times before the timing marks are perfect. A lot of times they were one tooth apart which would make it easy to mess up on install if you went at it that way. That is why some get the CEL to come on. Make sure you set the tensioner back, with pin to hold, before you take it off or else the little piston and spring will fall in. Nothing a magnet can't take care of.
Pop the sprockets off with a good 17mm socket and 22mm wrench on the cam. INSPECT THE NEW CAMS and put some engine assembly lube on them and install. Set the timing back perfect on the sprockets and they should fit with ease on the cams. Do all the torquing right and you should be good to go.
The motor as a whole, runs harder. I felt no real loss in the low end as advertised. The whole motor runs harder now. It starts running real hard at about 4300 rpm before second runners or butterflies in the manifold open up later. It runs so hard I almost couldn't hear them open up when I am in a low gear. Price for part=no Part for motor building=yes
About the cams: When setting the timing marks right you might have to rotate the crank several times before the timing marks are perfect. A lot of times they were one tooth apart which would make it easy to mess up on install if you went at it that way. That is why some get the CEL to come on. Make sure you set the tensioner back, with pin to hold, before you take it off or else the little piston and spring will fall in. Nothing a magnet can't take care of.
Pop the sprockets off with a good 17mm socket and 22mm wrench on the cam. INSPECT THE NEW CAMS and put some engine assembly lube on them and install. Set the timing back perfect on the sprockets and they should fit with ease on the cams. Do all the torquing right and you should be good to go.The motor as a whole, runs harder. I felt no real loss in the low end as advertised. The whole motor runs harder now. It starts running real hard at about 4300 rpm before second runners or butterflies in the manifold open up later. It runs so hard I almost couldn't hear them open up when I am in a low gear. Price for part=no Part for motor building=yes
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