Nissan Forum banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I think I can finally get rid of my barney mobile, a friend of mine at work has a 1995 red 200sx se-r manual with 164,000 miles on it. The body is in good shape it has a slight scuff on the front bumper but thats about it. The springs on it have been cut so its lowered quite a bit but I would swap them out for some hyper coils springs quickly. The only damage I can see is that the e brake handle is messed up because he had a aftermarket handle on there that broke off and the corner marker is cracked.
Things it has-
Short throw shifter
Lighter flywheel
Different clutch
The engine has been port and polished
I'm wondering since the motor has been port and polished and basically rebuilt that since it has 164 thousand miles it will still be okay... I was just wondering if you guys think that it has too many miles on it for me to think about buying when I have a 200sx Se with 34k on it... Thanks guys
 

·
Have I Hit 12's Yet?
Joined
·
5,325 Posts
depeneding on how much he wants, ide get it. sr20 motors are pretty cheapand easy to find, assuming the worst happened and the motor blew, though it prolly wont
 

·
NX2000 Bredren
Joined
·
212 Posts
Nissan motors run forever when they are taken care of. Ive seen KA's, GA's, SR's, and VG's run over 300k and still run strong.

As for the port and polish thing...its funny that alot of people selling a performance oriented car always say that they port and polished the head.

But yeah if its what you want and the price is right reliability shouldnt be an issue. Even the ragged out SR20 powerd cars still run strong...unless they were oil starved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
alright cool i think im going to get it, I dont pay a dime for it I trade him my 1995 200Sx Se for his Se-r... Its cause since my car has fewer miles and is an automatic when he trades a car in to get a spec v in a month or so he can have mine and I can have his Se-R!! Love how that works.. okay so im not worried about the motor but what about the rest of the car. My dad was bitching to me the motor may run forever but the suspension, frame, bushings everything all also have 164k on it.. I dunno I'm kinda leaning towards...ITS A IMPORT THEY DONT FALL APART! but i could be wrong tell me what you guys think.
 

·
Please Shift Here
Joined
·
6,696 Posts
sounds like you're buying from a ricer. Check to make sure he hasn't 'modified' anything to death. Check for some trouble spots like holes drilled through the firewall w/o paint or gromets, leaky lights and turn signals, holes drilled in the dash or seats, loose "racing" petals, horrible camber, or any emblems that don't belong on the car. Oh and you're prolly gonna need new shocks, I'm fairly sure those can't be saved.

LOL, I'm trying to figure out what his definition of "port & polish" is. Most people I know put on bolt-ons before they rip the heads off and port them. I hope he's good with the dremel, b/c If he can't afford basic I/H/E, I don't think he would splurge on a professional port/polish job. What kind of flywheel is on there? Did he give you a brand? Ask him who did the work on the mods and what brands they are.

BTW, WHAT IS HE ASKING?!?!?! This is some good information for us to know before we tell you to buy it or not.
 

·
Please Shift Here
Joined
·
6,696 Posts
wait, you're trading your 95 34k SE automatic for his 95 164K SE-R Manual? Well, I gotta assume your car is worth WAY more than his. I also assume yours is in WAY better shape as well. I'm fairly certain there are going to be parts on his car that need replacement. How is he on fluid replacement? The engines are the strongest part of the car. I would seriously have a mechanical inspection of the car though if you don't know what you're looking at.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well the guy before him is the one that did all the work and a friend of mine knew the guy that did all the work and said it was done right... However I did check the tires and since the springs were cut the camber is screwed, but i have free access to a alignment rack and a master technician to do it. I already plan on taking out the shocks and springs and going with some AGX shocks with hyper coil springs. I'm going to swap off a few parts from my car onto his like the corner marker and e brake handle. I'm not paying anything for the car I'm trading him even, but now that I think about it its a bad idea and i should probally just sell my car and buy the car off him for around 2 grand. I dunno do you think I should get or, or say screw it and look for like a 98 sentra se or somthing else? Cuz i know he has raced it and does beat on it a bit. I watched him race a prelude last night..so maybe this is a bad idea. I dunno its just the miles that are worrying me I'm just trying to figure out if the cars going to start needing shit replaced constantly, ya know?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
i'd have to agree with your dad. If his car has 164k miles on it, there would be other parts that have the miles on them.. What you would need to do , is do a full inspection on the car.
If it were me, i would just keep the car you are using now. If 164k miles on it and still "racing" it, you would think that he would have put in an intake or better performace parts, other than the flywheel (which i am not saying is bad), but w/ an se-r, come on.
like you said, he did beat on it, and even racing it,.. doesn't seem to me that he is taking the car care seriously. I would expect the car to need some changes soon.
tell him "no", and see how he reacts.. he might be just trying to get rid of it. even if you are a friend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
^ I disagree.

If you have access to alignment shops and friends in the mechanic biz then it's pretty safe to say you'll be able to fix most any problem with this SE-R. You may even want to do an engine swap when the time and finances are right.

The SE-R is one hell of a car. I love mine to pieces and I've personally been through almost every piece on the car. I carefully took the time to bring my baby back to life
(the jack-ass I purchased my SE-R from did a awful piss poor job of care and maintenance but that’s all different now).

Your SE-R sounds like it's about 90% better condition then mine was. Replace some bushings and shocks and maybe later do an engine swap, replace the rack & pinion... you got your self one hell of a car.


Then again… if you’re not very mechanically inclined and can’t wipe your own ass then maybe this little gem isn’t the one for you.


I suspect you can handle this one. :)

Good luck,
s
 

·
Please Shift Here
Joined
·
6,696 Posts
but if you're a technical guy and you don't mind putting more money into a car you just bought, that's one thing. When you're told a car cost X amount of dollars, most people would assume, that's all they're going to have to put into the car for awhile, other than gas. When you find out that half the shit doesn't work, that's what seperates a techy guy from the average person.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,308 Posts
i have a 99 sentra gxe 120k miles. i just bought a 91 b13 se-r with 220k miles for $1950 with I/H/E (hotshot and greddy equiped). my dad said the same thing, but once we put it on a lift he was sold, it has rubber spray like crazy, no rust (other than exhaust pipe) and all that jazz. but the guy i bought it from is a good guy and i trust him (i know him from sr20forum) as for the car you are buying honestly you are getting the $hit end of the deal! you are trading a car that is worth alot more for a car that has cut springs........anyone who cuts their springs does other bad stuff too. just wait, price your car and see what you could sell it for, then find a nearly stock se-r. unless you know the person you dont want to buy a modded car because they are almost always driven to death. as for chassis integrity i dont think you have much to worry about. granted i will be going to UTI so i will have mooooooooooooore than enough tools/ ppl with know how than i could ever even begin to use so working on this car isnt a problem for me.

but cut springs? i would even shake a stick at it.........sorry :( just wait untill you find a good car, or well maintained b13 beater, the guy told me the AC didnt work.......i just put a can of R-134a into it and its cold as ice! it just gets better and better :thumbup:

edit: just to let you know, the car i bought is far from perfect; needs power steering fixed, O2 sensor, fuel sending unit is wayyyy off, rear barkes are bad, 4 shocks rattle, no radio. but at the moment i have full access to a hobby shop with everything i need and a friend that works at advanced auto......so i am set. you need to ask your self "am i ready to work on my car instead of hanging out with me friends?" for me it was yes, my friends are at college, and the firneds i make at uti wont be doing anything but working on cars... :thumbup: (easy decision for me)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
Pete,

For the most part I agree with about everything you said above except for this...

1.6pete said:
or well maintained b13 beater, the guy told me the AC didn’t work.......i just put a can of R-134a into it and its cold as ice!

If that car is the 91 b13 SE-R then shouldn't the car be running R-12 Freon???

R-134a doesn’t work in the old b13... unless its had a conversion sometime down the road? :D
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,308 Posts
^ yes sir, it was retro fitted to R-134a but he just never dealt with it. i had a can of ac system restorer (has the oils in it) with about half left, so i dumped the oils in. then i bought a new can (one of those stubby ones, not sure of the size. it was $9 and made by dupont) and that brought her right up to the middle of the blue area (full) on my gauge. CHARLIE MURPHY....YOU COLD AS ICE :thumbup:
 

·
Please Shift Here
Joined
·
6,696 Posts
Not to keep nagging, but I still think it's a bad deal. Trading cars is not a good idea, you can't just trade cars like you would trade baseball cards. Although you don't realize it now, one of you will be walking around with a sour deal.

Look at the facts, his car has 130,000mi over yours!!! Shocks are prolly blown, and I can think of about 30 maintenence items that most likely haven't been taken care of by that guy. He's walking away with a car that's in top shape, ultra low-mileage (for a 95) and worth at least 3 grand more than what he owns now. You get an SR20, but you just got fucked by 3,000 plus whatever maintenence you need to do to your new SE-R.

If you're ready to move up to a better car, I suggest you sell yourcar privately and use the money TOWARD a car you REALLY want. You need to wait for the right one. Not many people are able to say they own a car they've been dreaming about. When I wrecked my old Sentra, I found my SE-L and I knew it was the one.
 

·
Please Shift Here
Joined
·
6,696 Posts
here are the first maintenence items you're going to be doing:

Change and flush all fluids (I still don't trust him)
Shocks (to restore to stock, ~$200) (aftermarket plus springs, $600+)
Axles ($100-150/side)
bearings (at least one will be bad, $35 + >150 labor)
suspension bushings
motor mounts
clutch (I don't trust many aftermarket clutches, expecially w/ no name provided)
exhaust (prolly shit on there now)
head gaskets, engine internals (if the car was abused, the engine was abused)
rust/bodywork
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
Ninety-Nine SE-L said:
Not to keep nagging, but I still think it's a bad deal. Trading cars is not a good idea, you can't just trade cars like you would trade baseball cards. Although you don't realize it now, one of you will be walking around with a sour deal.
You have a good point here.
If you buy the car and it craps out on you or needs more work and more money than you accounted for then first, your dad is gunna laugh at you then loan you the money to get it fixed. You could be without transportation to work or school and that really sux. And lets not forget how pissed off you'll be at you're friend the next time you see him.

So taking that all into consideration I would like to make a suggestion... why not buy the SE-R off your buddy?

That way you have two cars. One car you work on and the other you drive around till the SE-R is all fixed up. Then sell your SE and recoup the value.
There you go! Now you get the best of both worlds. :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No way i can afford two cars I need to sell my car to be able to buy another one sorry i cant have the best of both worlds
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Stick with what's reliable. Unless you can be sure to not get a crap ass deal out of this. And have your buddy give you the shaft.
 

·
Please Shift Here
Joined
·
6,696 Posts
If I were you I would keep looking for a better deal, You're talking about a 160,000mi vehicle as if it's a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Your current ride is completely reliable and worth around twice as much as the SE-R you're looking at. At the very least, hold out for a slightly lower-mileage car, or a better car than what you're looking at now.

IMO, this would serve you the best, Place an ad in the local paper or autotrader for your current car. The ultra low mileage will make it sell, believe me, you could prolly get 6k for the car with only 34,000 on the clock. The very day it sells, go onto autotrader and you can find a much nicer, newer SE-R with that kind of money. Hell, you could prolly get a G20 or 240sx with around that.

And think, if you got the SE-R you would have to dump an additional $1000+ to get it back in shape anyway, put that $1000 toward your new car and you got $7000+ to work with. That's your BEST option.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,308 Posts
plain and simple, there is no need to worry about a higher mileage car or it being 1/2 of what your current car is. i bought my se-r and its worth 1/2 of my GXE but steve was very honest with me and i like that. he also gave me a bunch of stuff and offerd to help any time, also his friend is a master welder and having access to a welder being a car guy that is like the jack pot. the copression test renderd a 100psi accross the board, thats not steller by any means but since its flat accross the board that means its still a stable engine. and for a car that cost me $1950 with a super solid chassis and no rust i have no problem droping in a new high port down the road.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top