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If you do not own a TIG-welding machine, you go to the machine shop again and have it carefully welded together, both from the outside and the inside

Reuse the shift stick bracket from the Z32 gearbox. You have to cut out some small triangles from it, bend it to a Z-shape to fit the S13 under body and then weld the cut outs together. (borrowed picture)

The new short shift

A small change of shift stick position compared to the original (borrowed picture)

A plate to cover the hole at the shift stick (borrowed picture)

A bracket to hold the gearbox in place (borrowed picture)

Aligning the gearbox with the rear axle. Put a steel tube in the gearbox, aim it towards the centre of the rear axle flange and find the final position of the gearbox bracket. (borrowed picture)

Side view (borrowed picture)

Front view (borrowed picture)

The prop shaft. Mount the Z32 yoke in the gearbox and the original flange on the rear axle. Measure the centre distance between the loops in the yoke and in the rear flange. Use this measure and go to your local prop shaft supplier and have him to make your new prop shaft. The shaft rotate at about 10.000rpm at max speed so it has to be dimensioned for the forces and also balanced.
how does the transmission shift? i see no connection from the stick to the trans. or am i just missing something here?

138 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
This is how to change the wheel studs to longer ones (not my car on some pictures)

Remove the wheels

Remove the bolts on the backside of the brake caliper (socket 17) and hang it up with a bit of wire.

Remove the center cover on the wheel hub with a flat screwdriver.

Remove the lock pin (replace with a new one)

Use a pair of flat pliers, squeeze the legs together and press out the pin

Remove the centre nut (socket 32). The wheel hub will start rotating, use a long bar or equal between the floor and the wheel studs to hold the wheel hub in place.

When the nut is removed, take out the washer placed behind it and pull off the wheel hub

Press the old studs out. If you dont have a wise or equal, you can hammer them out.

Please try to avoid using to much force when smacking them out, every blow will make small dimples inside the bearings. If you use a small sledge hammer One firm blow is better than multiple smaller ones. Support from behind is good to save the bearings.

Place the new longer studs in correct position (splines). Carefully knock them in a bit. Important that the splines are correctly alligned. Use a larger socket and a wheel nut and tighten till the stud is firmly seated towards the back of the hub..

Clean all surfaces and put new grease on the bearing surfaces. If you plan to use larger brake discs in the future, it is a good idea to remove the splash guard behinf the brake disc before you remount the disc.

Remount the washer, nut and locking pin. Assemble brake disc and spacer.

Remount the brake caliper

Mount the wheels and enjoy the wider stance :D

This is the result on my car (no spacers mounted yet and Camber not adjusted). This is also before the wider fenders are mounted.

I use a 5-stud wheel hub with pin studs. Make life much easier

Longer studs



138 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
I do not want to mess around with lots of hard to reach screws and nuts so I looked around to find a good solution.

Thanks to Creatix I managed to lay my hands on a bunch of really good Stainless Steel V-band clamps and flanges. They make life so much easier eliminating the hassle with aligning bolted flanges. Easy to mount and dismantle.

I will use them on the exhaust system, the down pipe, the front pipe, the two wastegates and on the turbon :)


138 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
What will happen when the fuel pump in the tank will suck air instead of fuel?

This could happen when you are on the track or during heavy acceleration. The fuel is forced towards the side of the tank, away from the pump. Especially when the tank is not full.
The air will be pumped into the fuel line, onwards to the fuel rail and via the injectors into the engine.

Most of the time this will cause a noticeable decrease of power and it may also damage your engine.

To stop air entering the fuel system, a surge tank / swirl pot is a very good solution.

I have tested a couple of designs and found two really well working versions. Which one to use is mainly a question of available space. Some install it in the boot, others in the engine bay. I will put mine in the engine bay.

If it is installed in the boot, use Teflon hoses. They are more gas tight compared with ordinary steel braided hoses and will prevent the smell of fuel inside the car. They are also resistant against E85.

To connect the hoses to the surge tank / swirl pot, use AN-connections. Usual sizes like AN-6, AN-8 or AN-10.

The installation is fairly simple. Remember the high pressure pump need rather much power and should be connected over a fused relay. It is recommended to use the ordinary pump power feed as relay control signal.

Boot installation

Engine bay installation

Bosch inline pump (0580254044)

Installation Diagram
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