I have a 5 sp. and at 3k in first its around 15 mph (give or take a couple). Add 15 or so for every gear at 3k except for 5th which is a different. I'm at 3k in 5th at 70 mph. 2k at 45 mph. Its not much different with a 4 speed (had a 4 then switched to 5, had the tach for both). I really dont pay much attention to the other rpm for the other gears and speeds, those are just my two main travel speeds. Still, youre best bet is to just listen to the engine and get used to it like that. Hope this helps.
Well if it's a M/T...it's when you want if it's an A/T Why would you need to know? It's automatic for a reason sorry..Umm..i'll give it you in KM/H it's 11:10 P.M. and i've been out all day..and i'm way to lazy to convert ..but it's around 25 in first, 45 in Second, 100 in third, and around 145 in fourth....That's for an A/T...i drive a stick so that's just guess at what i remember from driving an 88 ..can't be that much different...
shift where you have to. don't lug it, don't over rev it. For normal driving just nice quiet but above lugging. If you're racing (at a track) or getting on freeway quickly, then you'll have to get a feel for it. What everyone else posted works, but each car has it's on little personality and each driver is just a bit different.
I was just saying that because I was going down the highway and wanted to see how far I could push it. I was going 55-60 mph in second and it was right at 7k and then it just quit. It waited for a couple of seconds until the rpm was down around 6300 and then started again. I know it sounds like it just hit off the powerband, but it seemed to take too long if it was that. I couldnt think of anything else, and I know some cars have gas cut offs. But that was under load. I have goten it up to 7500 rpm in neutral, but I have only done that like once. That was another reason as to why I thought it was a gas cut off. So my fault for the incorrect info.
well it dont matter now. my car broke down not even a mile from my girls house. reason, not sure but think a axle snaped or something happened to the diff. the car made a loud clicking noise around corners, and the car would vibrate. then the wheel would started to kick to the right a little, eventually, it would click even going stright. the problem was only half the time i drove the car so it seams weird. well when it broke i went to left it out of first, the car reved but didnt move, picked it up the next day and on the way home my dad said he wont fix it if its going to cost more than 400-500 bucks, and with labor rates for machanics around here, about 90 an hour, im screwed. now im getting kicked down with a gay shit brown bronco that runs like hell. time for me to get a job finally, and get me a mkiii supra or a 240sx or something.
R.I.P. 89 sentra w/ salvage title and 4 acidents under it belt (none of which anything was fixed and still looked like new, these things are tanks)
Sounds like you broke the outer CV joint. From your description of the constant clicking, and the car not moving now, i'd guess that is what let go.
You should be able to crawl under there and check that out fairly easy. If that is all it is, not a big deal. A rebuilt shaft will set you back about $60 with the core, and a mechanic should be able to replace it in about an hour. If your car is still in decent shape, it would be well worth fixing if that is all that it is IMO.
hmm my first goes to 35 but to respond to the message about getting on it in second at 50mph already. idk what it is but i can bring my car up to about 40 in first if i get on it all the way through but if im hangin around 30mph for a second just for the heck of it then i try to get on it, it only gets up to around 35 and the fuel shut off kicks in sooo basically i used most of the fuel in the line being at such a high rpm for a while and the fuel cut off kicks in quicker that way