Nissan Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

· NPM Executive Editor
Joined
·
232 Posts
nissanseller said:
first off im nissan certified on the entire nissan line.......second when i speak of SE R i mean the SE R line up both sentra and altima. there are no upgrades yet from nismo worth getting now.. goto stillen's web page youll find some stuff there. nismos site sucks. :cool:
I'm just curious if you have dyno figures that show that the Nismo intake for the Altima 3.5 isn't worth it?

Stillen does offer a wide variety of intakes. AEM's definitely makes good power. Check our first articles on project Altima 3.5 SE

http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/august02/projectaltima/

I'm also wondering if you've driven an Altima with the NISMO suspension? It has stiffer spring rates and dampening over the SE-R suspension and it has an ASD valve in it to keep the ride nice over bumps. Coupled with the stiffer bushings, direct steering and reinforced rear K frame that the Altima SE-R has over the other Altima's the car should shine even more with the NISMO suspension.
 

· NPM Executive Editor
Joined
·
232 Posts
Clayton_SE-R said:
Just a question. I see people always talking about breaking their engines in adn what not. How does that work exactly (as in what is the process), and what are the repricussions of not following those steps?
The most important thing to be worried about while breaking an engine in is the rings on the pistons not seating. Petroleum oil (non-synthetic) oil is suggested for breaking in a motor. Synthetic oil is considered to be too slippery to allow for proper piston ring seating. Most manufacturers say the break in of a motor should take between 1500-2000 miles. Race motors can get about 20-30 min at low RPM on a dyno.

There's a school of thought that says you should break in an engine by driving it hard. With proper engine warm up the idea is that you get the piston rings to seat as quickly as possible and reduce the chance of contaminating the oil with combustion gasses and other combustion byproducts. Driving an engine under load (high gear lower RPM) is a good way to do this. The idea here is that by driving an engine easy during the break in process you’re actually prolonging piston ring seating and doing more harm. The acid and combustion gasses that go past the rings to the engine oil can cause wear on other engine components and cause power losses in a motor.

All the "wear in" during piston ring seating usually takes place under the first few miles of the motor so it’s important to change the oil soon after you buy a car. Some manufacturers recommend that you change oil after 600 miles but I look at it the old school way. Oil is cheaper than engines. Most of you reading this probably have more than 100 miles on your motor but I would change the oil as soon as possible with a non-synthetic. After the motor has broken in at 1500-2000 miles its safe to switch to your favorite synthetic.

This is a highly debated topic, so break your engine in how you want. I broke my Altima SE-R in hard. We’ll see what the numbers look like when I put it on the dyno.
 

· NPM Executive Editor
Joined
·
232 Posts
mattchu5150 said:
I originally got an auto, but called dealer back when I got home and told him to find me a 6sp. They agreed and I got it on Monday. The car is very fun, BUT it is now in the shop it had to be towed from my house. I went to Cleveland Friday night 'bout 60 miles from home. There are a couple of fun curvey roads I was racing around on, when coming to an end, my brake pedal went mush. I had to down shift and e-brake to stop. This car has 250 miles on it. Dealer says he can't replicate the problem and the guy who took it off the flatbed says when it sat idling pedal would go to the floor???? If they can't find the problem, what do I do? I am afraid to push it. What if it happens again. I crash.

Anyway it is smoke 6 sp w/no brakes.

I love the car though.
Does the pedal stay on the floor or can you pump it? Pumping the pedal might build up enough pressure to stop.

I would insist that the whole brake system is checked, Master cylinder, lines, brake booster, calipers. If they haven't found the problem it doesnt mean its fixed (obviously).
 

· NPM Executive Editor
Joined
·
232 Posts
mattchu5150 said:
Got the car back last night. They did everything you mentioned, plus the rotors were turned. They were out .030. Car had 75 miles on it when delivered, I didn't warp them. Everything seemed to feel fine now. Only 1 big decision to make and that is swapping out the car and going back to the auto I had in the first place. Dealer says they will work with me.

That being said and having driven both cars this is a very hard decision to make. I went out last night and did some launches & 1-2 shifting, it is pretty hard keeping traction, and yes it has TCS. I have a better feel for the manual now BUT the auto shifts so well and with such little driving effort. They both have thier pros, as I am yet to find any cons (other than the traction thing).

Well it's 9 am now and I have to call the dealer by 10 with an answer.
Driving a V6 Altima with a manual really reminds me a lot of driving my turbo-charged Sentra. On pump gas my Sentra only makes a little more horsepower then our fully built out Altima 3.5 SE project.

Point being, it's an aweful lot of power to drive through the front wheels. The good news is the tranny isnt succeptable to blowing up like the sr20 powered cars. As long as you respect the power and let off the gas when you feel wheel hop you'll be fine. The Bad is you can really light the tires off in 1st and 2nd but it's childish an fun sometimes.

I've realized that the traction control can be quite liberal at times and you can get an awful lot of wheel spin before Mom comes in and slows things down.
 

· NPM Executive Editor
Joined
·
232 Posts
CTDan said:
part number has been discontinued-five dealers. Then I call a Nissan dealer, they said that NISMO COLD AIR is not available for SE-R.

These is an every-day car for me, so it needs to be street legal. And have not interest in settting this car to sound like those Civics driving around with the coffee can hanging off the back.
Keep in mind most dealerships have the old school mentality that hates aftermarket performance parts. Who ever you spoke with doesn't know jack! Both the AEM CAI and NISMO will fit on your car. The AEM has CARB exemption the NISMO doesn't. If you really want just a hint of noise gain with an intake and a 5 wheel hp gain you should go with the JWT POP charger.


CTDan said:
1. Cold Air Kit (Company: unknown)--suggestions welcome.

2. Headers with cats, new down pipe.

3. Performance Cam.
For headers both Stillen and Hotshot make them. Stillen's do not have a cat Hotshot's do.

NPM Project Altima Headers/

For cams there's the NISMO cams or JWT.

NPM Projet Altima CAMS

You really should go to that project car page ;)

Stay tuned with our updates for our Altima SE-R project also!
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top