symptoms are pointing towards the distibutor, although ive seen bad coils do the same thing. being in the distributor however, you cant exactly go and change the coil out... what were the codes that auto zone pulled?
rough idle and stall.
I own a 2001 altima it started idleing very rough rpm's ranging from 750 to 500 ish and the a intermitent stall/all while at a complete stop only.As soon as i step on the gas my problems go away.Auto zone hooked it up to there diagnostic comp. and said I needed a o2 sensor and had multi. cylinder misfires.I got a $160 dollar sensor from nissan and it still runs like s#@t.New plugs didnt help either and the wires look good......please help me...thanks
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I dont know the code #but it said multiple clyinder misfire? sorry i hope this helps if not i will go back in.what coils are you refering to?AsleepAltima said:symptoms are pointing towards the distibutor, although ive seen bad coils do the same thing. being in the distributor however, you cant exactly go and change the coil out... what were the codes that auto zone pulled?
the ignition coil. on your year altima, its on the distributor itself under the distributor cap.paulrivera said:I dont know the code #but it said multiple clyinder misfire? sorry i hope this helps if not i will go back in.what coils are you refering to?
ok does it come with the cap and rotor set.....i said to someone that i should change the rotor and they stated that the chances of the rotor causing a miss fire are slim to none...they did'nt look to smart though.AsleepAltima said:the ignition coil. on your year altima, its on the distributor itself under the distributor cap.
what do you think i would pay for a cap rotor and coil or were can i find the best price?paulrivera said:ok does it come with the cap and rotor set.....i said to someone that i should change the rotor and they stated that the chances of the rotor causing a miss fire are slim to none...they did'nt look to smart though.
nope, it only comes with the distributor. the distributor is pricey though so you have to make sure it is indeed the distributor before you run out to get one. the rotor can cause a misfire if the carbon button in the center is worn out or the tips inside the cap are too corroded and the rotor cant make the arc good enough. wires can look good but be bad at the same time. try going outside (now would be the perfect time) and run the engine with the hood open and NO LIGHT on the engine. if you see a miniature light show coming from the plug wires, you just found your problem.paulrivera said:ok does it come with the cap and rotor set.....i said to someone that i should change the rotor and they stated that the chances of the rotor causing a miss fire are slim to none...they did'nt look to smart though.
not sure about your year... www.autozone.com would give you an idea but to tell you the truth, i only buy oem from the dealer when it comes to the cap and rotor.paulrivera said:what do you think i would pay for a cap rotor and coil or were can i find the best price?
the o 2 sensor was only good from the dealer as well...i will go out now and look for lights.AsleepAltima said:not sure about your year... www.autozone.com would give you an idea but to tell you the truth, i only buy oem from the dealer when it comes to the cap and rotor.
no light show.is it more likely the distributer cap and not the coil?paulrivera said:the o 2 sensor was only good from the dealer as well...i will go out now and look for lights.
ill check back in the morning to see if you were able to see any lights at all. good luck.
no lights at all.AsleepAltima said:ill check back in the morning to see if you were able to see any lights at all. good luck.
then my advice would be(so you dont spend unnecessary money) is to go and retrieve those codes again. i dont want to keep throwing out remedies and wasting your time... get the codes and post them and then we'll go from there.
will do! :thumbup:AsleepAltima said:then my advice would be(so you dont spend unnecessary money) is to go and retrieve those codes again. i dont want to keep throwing out remedies and wasting your time... get the codes and post them and then we'll go from there.
hmmm, same as before "multiple cylinder misfire"... im going to ask another mod what he thinks and see what he thinks as well.paulrivera said:the # is p0300
cool thanks!AsleepAltima said:hmmm, same as before "multiple cylinder misfire"... im going to ask another mod what he thinks and see what he thinks as well.
It sounds like the intake has a leak such as a vacuum hose has come off or broken, the battery has dirty or corroded connections, or the plug wires are more than 5k ohms per foot. I would check the problems in that order because I think the leak is the most likely cause of your problem. Sometimes to isolate the leak I will spray carb cleaner around the intake until the engine the rpms go up substantially and then visually check in that area.
Troy
Troy
thanks Troy,i used to live in Golden on w. 14th st. my wires are factory could that do it? I will get some carb cleaner and clean my battery connections. thanks!....i looked for a vacuum leak and could'nt see one but that doesnt mean it aint there lol.KA24Tech said:It sounds like the intake has a leak such as a vacuum hose has come off or broken, the battery has dirty or corroded connections, or the plug wires are more than 5k ohms per foot. I would check the problems in that order because I think the leak is the most likely cause of your problem. Sometimes to isolate the leak I will spray carb cleaner around the intake until the engine the rpms go up substantially and then visually check in that area.
Troy
before you say it....i wont clean my connections with the carb cleaner i know thats to check for leaks lolpaulrivera said:thanks Troy,i used to live in Golden on w. 14th st. my wires are factory could that do it? I will get some carb cleaner and clean my battery connections. thanks!....i looked for a vacuum leak and could'nt see one but that doesnt mean it aint there lol.
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