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Its been a while so I don't remember exactly, I do remember I had trouble finding it too !!!
Try this from the FSM.
If you still cant find try search as this has come up before.



EDIT

Looking at the image I am not sure which is which. try looking for a bolt at the opposite side to the adjuster.
 

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And download the FSM. The common one floating around is for the 96 but does well for 94 -97, and good enough for 98 and 99
 

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PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE! USE A 2 JAW PULLER! You can get a set from HFT for around $18. Might as well buy a seal puller too since they don't cost much.That beats the heck out of the $150 for a new pulley if you use a prybar! Ask me I know! I bought the seal from Rockauto for $3.13 (of course it doesn't include shipping, so order extra stuff I.E belts, filters etc.)Just make sure they all are shipped from the same place or they double bang you with shipping. Use the starter method for pulley bolt removal, it works great! Now I'll just have to replace the oil soaked worn out rubbers under the car. It's been leaking for a long long time. I could have saved a $100 or more on oil if I had done this 2+ years ago..... 220,865 miles on the odo so we'll see how long she lasts. Not bad on a 94 Sentra.
 

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Hey I got the seal in !!! I used the 2 jaw puller from Harbor Freight and it worked great! Also used the "starter bump" trick with a breaker bar, after removing the coil wire from the distributor cap, and it came loose on the first try, works like a charm I must say! Replaced the belts, did an oil change while I was under there, no leaks now on my '94 Sentra, which has 116K on the original engine. YAY !!!

I just picked up a set of (4) Monroe Sensa-Trac struts ... I am going to replace the struts all the way around, so I will be starting that fun project today, if it doesn't rain.

You guys are great! Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it !!!

:fluffy:
 

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I wish I could say that it quit using oil. But it still does, just not quite so much. But it isn't throwing oil out of the engine any more so that's a plus. How did the strut install go? I still need to replace the a/c compressor and the halfshaft, but its cooler now so the a/c can wait til next summer. Going to be interesting to see how many miles it can get on the odometer before it gives out. 223000 miles on it now.
 

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Hey depot1200 and everybody!

The strut installation went fine, it did take some time and a crapload of WD-40, but no major snags! I picked up a set of spring compressers from Harbor Freight (total cost with tax was $10.55). The breaker bar proved to be worth its weight in gold when taking off the old struts, because most of the bolts were rusty as hell and did not want to come off easily!

It rides a lot better now ... all 4 of the old struts that I took out had ZERO pressure in them, they were all dead as door nails.

Still no leaks on the new oil seal, so I must've installed it correctly ... YAY !!!

Next project will be CV joints, most likely will replace the entire halfshaft on both sides ... I am really not looking forward to that one :crazy:
and she needs a new set of tires. The fun never ends with this car!

:fluffy:
 

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I use a breaker bar against the ground and then turn the key to remove these bolts on automatic transmission cars and it always works. -Feld
 

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A common problem with the GA16DE engine is a leaking front seal. The symptoms are:

- Oil in the area of the belts and other parts of the passenger side of the engine.
- Ol level low, but no puddles/drips.

Here is the procedure from the Factory Service Manual



- The Engine under cover is the plastic cover bolted to the underside of the engine.
- The front of the car should be put on jack stands, and the passenger-side front wheel removed. The RH engine side cover is behind the passenger-side wheel. Remove the clips. If the clip is smooth, pry it out with a screwdriver. If it has a Phillips screw in the middle, remove the screw and then pry the clip put with a screwdriver.
- The drive belt removal is shown below.
- The crankshaft pulley (the bottom pulley you took the belts off of) is removed by loosening and removing the bolt in the center. The bolt is on tight and is most easily removed with an impact wrench. If you have a standard trans, you can put it in 4-th gear and have a friend stand on the brakes while you try to remove it with a socket and breaker bar. If you have an auto trans, this method will not work. Once the bolt off, grab the pulley with both hands and try to work it off. Sometimes this works. If not, use a puller. (you can rent one for a returnable deposit from an auto parts place).
- You can remove the seal with a screwdriver, as shown. Be careful not to scratch the surface on the engine where the seal is installed. If it is scratched, it may leak.
- The suitable tool used to install the seal can be a large socket (a piece of hard wood will work). The important part is to keep the seal square and not damage it when installing it. Install it flush with the block, not any deeper.
- There is a keyway and key (half-moon shaped piece of metal that fits in the keyway) on the crankshaft. Examine the key for burrs and dress it with a pattern file if there are any. (Clean and oil it afterwards.) Set the key in the keyway with the front slightly lower than the rear so the pulley won't push it out when installed.
- The crank pulley has a slot which fits over the key. Orient the pulley so it lines up with the keyway and slide it on. It should go on easily, don't force it.
- Tighten the bolt to 97-112 lbs-ft with a torque wrench.
- Re-install the belts and shields (line up the holes and push the clips in).

Engine Accessory Belts
Your illustration is quite good and useful but the mechanics never follow these steps to troubleshoot. Following the manual procedures sometimes make a fuss out of the issue..
 

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This thread is exactly what i needed, it was the first time ever doing anything on a car that had to do with taking off belts or anything. And i got it done in about 5 hours, that wasn't all straight work but it took me from around 9-2. Its a fairly simple job :)

-tapping the starter to break that crank pulley bolt is an amazing trick

-i loaned a pulley puller from autozone, i couldn't get it off without it.

-having a friend with you definately helps!

and i torqued the bolt back on the crank pulley to 100pounds? i hope thats enough, if not its not to hard to go back and add a few pounds to it. i read 100 was good though.

Thanks a ton for the all the information!:cool:
 

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The spec is 97.7 to 112 Ft Lbs.
So you are probably OK.
In general be aware the accuracy of torque wrenches is not good, so its normally best to aim for the middle which is 105 ft lbs.

This bolt which seems relatively un-important put my Subaru Legacy down for a new engine. It worked loose after I gave it to my son and they worked on it.
this ruined the crankshaft, and then would not stay tight.
 

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So last weekend I had to replace the starter. Not too bad if you take off the intake hose and work it from both the top and bottom. got that replaced,started it and it started pouring oil out! so I crawled back underneath to see what was the matter and lo and behold it was the oil filter! I don't know how many hundreds of oil changes I've done over the years and this is a first for me. I normally buy Fram filters but since it was old and so forth I decided to buy a cheapie filter and this is what I get. So after refilling the oil in it for the past 5 months, it ends up being that! now has 227,000 on it with no oil leaks! remember to check the "small" stuff too!
 

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The gasket didn't spin off that cheap filter did it? I've had that happen before with some of those off-brand/no-name filters.
And now that you mention it, taking the intake hose (and probably the whole throttle body itself) would make getting the starter out a lot easier. Good to know for me...my starter has needed a couple of beat-downs in the past couple of months. I was kinda not looking forward to doing it.
 

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Don't take off any more than you have to. Just by taking off the intake tube you can get to the two starter mounting bolts using a 14mm socket and pull the starter up through the top. Mine had bad brushes but luckily I bought a lifetime replacement from Advance and took it back to them. I would have just replaced the brushes if they sold them, but they make more money selling the rebuilt starters so I traded mine in. Now I notice that I have coolant dripping from somewhere around the water pump. So I have that to look forward to. But I can put an awful lot of parts on a car for the price of one monthly payment on a new one! Now if I could just change some other peoples way of thinking. They convince themselves that it is going to "nickel and dime" them so they go out and buy a new car. Most will criticize you for throwing away an empty coke can instead of recycling! Reduce, Reuse, Recycle! REUSE that car!
 

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You ain't kidding me...
I've got 2 of them, '97 Sentra GXE (182K miles, bought for $1700 3 years ago) and a '98 200SX-SE (168K miles, bought for $4K 7 years ago). I'm into the '97 for an alternator, all suspension components and the normal brakes/tires/belts/tuneups, the '98 has had an alternator and now timing chain work (which is still in progress), again as well as normal wear/tear stuff.
The '97 gets ~30MPG (automatic), the '98 gets just shy of 40MPG if I keep my foot out of it. The '98 left me stranded once, had to get 'er towed, but only because I wasn't thinking. The screw fell out of the rotor. DOH! I should've noticed it, but again, wasn't thinking, stuck with the wife and kid over the road, 400 miles from home, etc. Got towed, pull my head out of my a$$, found the screw, temp fixed it with an over-sized screw.
Daily driver is an '88 Chevy Sprint ($300 12 years ago!, 224K miles), gets me ~54MPG summer, ~48MPG winter, looks like a$$ but runs great.
I ain't getting rid of any of them until I literally run the wheels off them. As far as I'm concerned, my kid (just turned 2) will be driving one of them when he gets to that age...that is if there's still gas around...even then, I'll convert one of them to electric before I shitcan it!

Otherwise, I took a look at the Sentra today. Ya, looks like a relative piece of cake to get the starter out now that I look at it. A lot less work than I thought it was going to be.
 

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Can anyone confirm you need a 27mm socket to take off the crank pulley nut? Would a regular socket work or would I need a deep one?

Don't wanna be running around buying sockets in the middle of this job.

Thanks!
 

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Regular socket should work. I used a deep because that's what I had. But you'll likely need about a 3" extension.
 

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Thanks Jdg, a regular socket worked fine

Did this last weekend. I might be in the minority here, but I had no trouble with the crank pulley bolt - I do have an electric impact wrench though. One of my favorite tool purchases and mine was under $40.

However, getting the pulley itself off was a PITA. I wasn't having any luck pulling it by hand or with a few taps from a mallet. When I tried the 3 jaw puller I borrowed from O'Reilly's, I didn't have much room to work. I had to thread the crank pulley bolt in most of the way and line up the jaws perfectly to get the puller to work.

Also I ran out and bought a seal puller. Made pulling the seal a LOT easier.

Hope this helps someone.
 

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I didn't have a problem with either of my pulleys (I've got 2 B14's). Just kinda wiggled/walked them off the shaft with a little bit of tapping here and there.
I think I'm in the minority for that though. The seal, you can pull that out with a regular ol' flat edge screwdriver with the tip bent over, but ya gotta be careful not to nick up the crank surface itself. Sometimes better to buy the right tools for the right job. Screwdriver worked for me...
 

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I replaced my front main seal today! It was going through about a quart every week or so and so far my car doesn't seem to be losing a drop. The job went easy except I took a chunk out of my crank pulley on the outer lip where the timing marks are unfortunately. Would a tiny piece like that throw off the balance enough to make a difference or am I just being overly paranoid? I might just JB Weld it on in a couple days and call it good, but if I do decide to replace it can UR pulleys still be found? I looked a few places to know avail.
 

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UR pulley sets were available for the GA, check the classifieds !!!
 
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