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- There is a keyway and key (half-moon shaped piece of metal that fits in the keyway) on the crankshaft. Examine the key for burrs and dress it with a pattern file if there are any. (Clean and oil it afterwards.) Set the key in the keyway with the front slightly lower than the rear so the pulley won't push it out when installed.
THis has been a great thread but I'm just not sure about this step. The Haynes manual doesn't talk about this. Is this a loose part that comes off when the pulley is pulled? Can anybody care to explain Thanks
 

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THis has been a great thread but I'm just not sure about this step. The Haynes manual doesn't talk about this. Is this a loose part that comes off when the pulley is pulled? Can anybody care to explain Thanks
Yes-
it is a small separate part--don't loose it.

It may come out in the pulley. It is wedged in to keep the pulley from spinning on the shaft-

It goes back in with the round side to the shaft-then you press the pulley back on over it.

You'll understand better once you are in there-
 

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Looks like I have this problem with my 95 and was wondering if anyone has working pics of this. I would like to see what I am about to do and the Haynes book doesn't show this process.

Thanks
gam
 

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Make sure there is no crankshaft play or walk or your efforts will be wasted.
You have crank walk on a GA ??
Or main bearing play ??
I don't think i have ever seen that mentioned here even from our hi mile members.
 

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I don't but i've seen it before after the thrust bearing wears out, it will walk trust me.
On a Nissan GA series engine ?
I have been on this forum since 2003 and have never seen anyone report this.
Yes DSM's walk their cranks, various European engines.
 

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I just slammed my hand into the brake caliper takin my crankshaft pulley off. =)
Blood and swelling fun. My 2 cents get a puller and be done with it. Hehe
 

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Use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and socket and place it on the pulley nut then put in so it rests just above the pavement. Disconnect the ignition coil. Now just turn the key for a split second so the starter ingages. This is how I remove this bolt on automatics. Haven't had a problem with standards.
 

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Man am I glad I found this place and this thread. I am going to add this to my list for the weekend. I have a 99 Nissan Sentra GXE with around 113000 miles on in it and the front of the motor has oil all over. It is leaking on the ground. This should be a fun project. And while I am at it, the belts are going to be changed also.

:newbie:
are we twins? lol
 

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when i got the pulley off it had a seal on the inside of it. is that where i'm supposed to put the new seal??




or is it supposed to go somewhere in there??




and which way is the seal supposed to go in cause one side is solid and flat and the other has a groove and like a little spring inside (you see that in the first picture)??
 

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The pully is a harmonic balancer, leave the rubber alone.
the seal goes in the front of the engine
 

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if the seal is really leaking, you will have to pull the transmission to replace it. if it's a standard, just pull the tranny, pry out old seal, and use something the same size as new seal to drive it in square. if automatic, then you have to take torque converter off the input shaft to replace seal. make sure when you replace converter to push in on it while rotating it.it has to be seated all the way in or you will bust the pump. usually 3 notches, maybe four.

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Accessory Drive Belt - Direct OE Replacement Parts
 

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if the seal is really leaking, you will have to pull the transmission to replace it. if it's a standard, just pull the tranny, pry out old seal, and use something the same size as new seal to drive it in square. if automatic, then you have to take torque converter off the input shaft to replace seal. make sure when you replace converter to push in on it while rotating it.it has to be seated all the way in or you will bust the pump. usually 3 notches, maybe four.

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Accessory Drive Belt - Direct OE Replacement Parts
The seal is the engine front crankshaft seal, not the transmission seal.
 

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I have been watching this post for six or more months knowing that I needed to do this. My wife called me on sunday and said that all the engine lights came on and what should she do. I told here to pull over and look and see if a belt was off. It was and I told her to turn on the heater even though it was about 95. She got it home and I have been working on it since sunday. My first thought even though I knew the oil was leaking was just to through the belts on and move on. The belts gave me fits and after yelling about every foul word I could on sunday by sundown I just let it go. After thinking about it that night I thought I am going to have to take the wheel off to replace the belts I might as well replace the seal on the crankshaft and be done with that oil leak that is costing we about 20 dollars a month. Pulled it in the garage on monday jacked it up pulled the wheel put a jack stand under it and chocked the wheels. Thats were it stayed untill today I had to think about if I was going to buy the tools are try some of the tricks I had seen on here. Tuesday night we were in the Home Depot and looking at a 29 dollar air impact gun and then we saw a whole set with air rachet and grinder for 55 dollars. Enough said bought and started to use it on wensday. I removed the plastic panel with the air rachet it came with an attachment for screw driver tips had it off in about a minute. Then I started using the impact wrench and there were problems. I dont know if 260 lbs of torgue is enough to break the nut but I used it for about an hour with no progress. After that I did the trick bumbing the starter with my rachet wrench against a piece of firewood. Two bumbs loose bolt and on with the pulley puller. Now in the morning I will return the pulley puller to advance auto and pick up my seal witch they did not have in stock. Total cost of repair 7 dollars for 27 mm socket, 55 dollars for air wrench kit, 8 dollars for seal. Total cost of repair 70 dollars and I have some new air wrenchs for other projects. The only thing I really had to have was the seal and socket so I guess it could have been done for 15 dollars. I know its a bit shade tree but the starter bumbing trick was a saver for me maybe it was broke a bit by the impact wrech but it would not come lose untill I bumbed the starter. My biggest worry was the crankshaft seal but I will admit that I think putting the belts back on will be the hardest thing. Those adjustment places are about worthless unless you got the arms of a nine year old. My advice to those out there thinking about the impact wrench skip it if its a money concern. I dont mind buying it I will use it in the future but its not absolutly nesesary. The puley puller was the number one tool to those of you who said you pulled of by hand my hats of to ya. I think if I had everthing in hand I could do the job in about 5 hours with lots of breaks. To the guy that said he could do it in an hour I believe him with the right tools it could be done.
 

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Well done.
The starter bump technique was taught to me by a dealership service manager when I was a teenager in England.
It has worked on everything from a 997cc to 7500 cc engine without an issue.
If you think about it the starter only gets the engine rotating maybe a 1/12 of a turn, but its moving when the slack is taken up and the impact undoes the bolt. So all the engine inertia undoes the bolt plus the starter if its still engaged. And that's a definite if because Its a very short bump.
I have never damaged a starter or ring gear.
 

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Great information everybody! I have read all 11 pages on this sticky, and feel I have a very good information base to start this project, as I am a semi-professional shade tree mechanic :) ... I am a bit confused as to the difference between the standard and automatic transmission with regards to the "starter bump" trick ...

I have a 1994 Nissan Sentra LE, 1.6L Manual transmission ...

My understanding after reading this post, is that if you have a standard transmission, and someone holds their foot on the brake pedal, it will hold the crankshaft pulley stable while the bolt is loosened?

And if you have an automatic, you should position a 27mm socket and breaker bar on the ground or somewhere stable, and disconnect the primary wire leading to the distributor to prevent the engine from starting, the "bump" the starter to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt?

I would appreciate a bit of clarification before I attempt this repair ... I have a new Beck/Arnley seal, a set of 3 pulley puller tools (from Habor Freight), a 27mm 1/2 inch drive socket and 1/2 inch drive ratchet ... however, I do not have a breaker bar, at the moment. I also do not have air tools or any impact wrench type tools. I appeciate any assistance or clarification regarding this repair, which I am hoping to complete tomorrow.

My thanks, in advance!
 

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Great information everybody! I have read all 11 pages on this sticky, and feelI am a bit confused as to the difference between the standard and automatic transmission with regards to the "starter bump" trick ...
No difference between Auto and Manual, I have used for both.

My understanding after reading this post, is that if you have a standard transmission, and someone holds their foot on the brake pedal, it will hold the crankshaft pulley stable while the bolt is loosened?
Yes this will work. use fourth or fifth gear, but I use the starter bump

a 27mm 1/2 inch drive socket and 1/2 inch drive ratchet ... however, I do not have a breaker bar, at the moment.
I would not use a ratchet for this.....maybe see is you can get a 1/2 breaker bar at Harbor Freight.

For years I used a cheap box wrench's with a 1/2 inch hole i drilled in it and a 1/2 rod jack handle....
It doesn't have to cost much.
 

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In Deep

Thanks Ian .... I have procured a breaker bar from Harbor Freight, and it has helped to some degree ... but now I am stuck trying to get the Power Steering belt loose, and I don't know what to try next ... any help you or the other forum people could provide would be greatly appreciated ... I was able to get the adjustment bolt loose, but I am having a hard time figuring out where the "pivot bolt" is ... to the front or the passenger side or driver side ... where the F is the proper bolt? I have a Haynes manual, but it is very vague as to where the bolt is!

Please Help!
 
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