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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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I wish I could say that it quit using oil. But it still does, just not quite so much. But it isn't throwing oil out of the engine any more so that's a plus. How did the strut install go? I still need to replace the a/c compressor and the halfshaft, but its cooler now so the a/c can wait til next summer. Going to be interesting to see how many miles it can get on the odometer before it gives out. 223000 miles on it now.
You may want to pull the valve cover and replace the PCV baffle seal (it's the small, rectangular seal on the underside of the valve cover) along with a new valve cover gasket. The baffle seal is a common cause of oil burning in GA engines; they get hard or suck in and oil gets sucked directly into the intake. Also, make sure the PCV valve is not stuck or sticking.
 

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The job went easy except I took a chunk out of my crank pulley on the outer lip where the timing marks are unfortunately. Would a tiny piece like that throw off the balance enough to make a difference or am I just being overly paranoid?
Post a picture. If the chunk ain't too big, I'd say file it down so it doesn't take a chunk out of the belt and go with it.
 

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Hello all,
This is my first post.
I was very pleased to have the info re leaking front seal on my Nissan N14 engine.
Using the starter "bump" technique was a great save although it took about 6 attempts before the screw finally came free - well and truly set in place!
Can't imagine why the leak started but it wasn't caused by a high oil level.
Thanks fellas.
 

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I thought the "starter bump" tactic for loosening the pulley screw might have been a bit rough on the ring gear but others had used it successfully so I gave it a whirl.
Trying to lock everything up to loosen the screw wasn't really on - too much slack and sponginess in the drive train. In the event, after several bumps, the screw glided out.
I'd like to know how Nissan workshops tackle this difficulty.
 

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I thought the "starter bump" tactic for loosening the pulley screw might have been a bit rough on the ring gear but others had used it successfully so I gave it a whirl.
Trying to lock everything up to loosen the screw wasn't really on - too much slack and sponginess in the drive train. In the event, after several bumps, the screw glided out.
I'd like to know how Nissan workshops tackle this difficulty.
I was taught this by my local Standard Triumph dealer in England when I was 17, and that was a long time ago.

I dont know how they do it, but remember they want your money, so what the mechanics do and what the service writer tells you may be two different things.

The ring gear is not at risk with the pre-engaged starter, and you use the inertia of the engine moving to overcome the tight nut. So a little play before the breaker bar hits something solid is good.
 

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I was taught this by my local Standard Triumph dealer in England when I was 17, and that was a long time ago.
You don't hear THAT everyday!

So a little play before the breaker bar hits something solid is good.
Same principle as a good impact wrench. I say 'good' because I started out life without a garbage/cheap/knockoff one which wasn't much use at all. Spent the big $$$, got a good one, never looked back...
 

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Gosh it's that easy?

I actually had this done. Finding someone to do it was so tough considering how easy it looks on this page! One guy wouldn't do it (shop owner says he sends all that work somewhere else) and another guy would charge me $700. I had THAT and instal ball joint and two front struts for $295. I wish I'd tried it myself but if am clever I don't know, I'm too chicken to find out lol
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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I thought the "starter bump" tactic for loosening the pulley screw might have been a bit rough on the ring gear but others had used it successfully so I gave it a whirl.
Trying to lock everything up to loosen the screw wasn't really on - too much slack and sponginess in the drive train. In the event, after several bumps, the screw glided out.
I'd like to know how Nissan workshops tackle this difficulty.

Most repair shops, including dealers, remove/install the crank bolt using a 1/2" air impact gun. As far as the "bump method," it does work, but I have seen two incidents where this method was used and the starter housing cracked. You also have to be careful in case the breaker bar and socket falls off the bolt head and goes flying!
 

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What I don't get about the starter method is, how do you plan on getting the bolt back on? Can't use the starter again, and the crank will start rotating after what 5-10 lbs of torque. The bolt is supposed to be tightened down to 98 lbs, how could you even achieve half of that without an impact wrench?
 

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What I don't get about the starter method is, how do you plan on getting the bolt back on? Can't use the starter again, and the crank will start rotating after what 5-10 lbs of torque. The bolt is supposed to be tightened down to 98 lbs, how could you even achieve half of that without an impact wrench?
Well for manuals I put it in gear and used that to hold the force against the torque wrench..

I don't remember how I held my 455 Pontiac Auto crank ...????
I suspect I used some kind of torque plate lock, I believe it had an inspection window.

Don't forget that the hard part is undoing this bolt after its frozen in place for 5 - 10 yrs or so.

And you need a torque wrench to get the tightening torque correct.
 

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What I don't get about the starter method is, how do you plan on getting the bolt back on? Can't use the starter again, and the crank will start rotating after what 5-10 lbs of torque. The bolt is supposed to be tightened down to 98 lbs, how could you even achieve half of that without an impact wrench?
Thanks for that torque value. I managed to get my bolt off by having it in gear. I was also able to pull the pulley off by hand, quite easily... It doesnt look bad so I am just waiting on the seal and will re-install it.
 

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I had an alternator die on a Maxima. The Crankshaft seal was throwing oil up on it without leaving a puddle in the driveway. To remove the lower bolt I gained access by removing the A/C compressor. I left the A/C compressor dangling on the hoses. The discharge hose pulled out and stripped the threads in the compressor and blew Freon and compressor oil in my face. I could not save the compressor. I ended up buying a new compressor and drier. The price of Freon added even more to my repair bill. If I had paid good attention and noticed that the seal was leaking then the repair bill would have been $4.00 instead of $400.00. Lesson learned. I keep my engine compartment clean so I can notice things like this and I still let this one sneak up on me. What could have been a two hour repair turned into a two day repair. I have a 1995 Maxima with 400K miles on her. The worn out rack and pinion will be what finally sends this car to the scrap yard. I simply am not interested in trying to replace it.
 

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Wait a minute, you mean the oil seal can be damaged if there's too much engine oil?Coz somehow my dipstick shows that the oil is about an inch higher than the stated maximum level.

Yeah, i cleaned the dipstick when i removed it and put it back again to get an accurate reading.
Engine was cooled down and oil reading was taken 4 hours later
Can too much oil blow a seal? Apparently yes.

On December 28 2016, I took my 05 Alrima to change the oil outside of the dealer shop for the first time. Thinking that I was giving a treat to my car, I allowed Walmart to put synthetic Castrol 5W30 in it. From that time, I drove the car a couple of times and left town for a couple of days in another car. I came to town yesterday, and drove the Alrima today 01/24/17. As I pulled under my carport, I noticed a large puddle of oil. Under hood there was evidence of oil leak either from the timing chain cover or a seal on top of the cover. The dipstick is totally dry :(. Could this be caused by overfilling or by the change from regular to synthetic oil?

Another forum member (Uhoh) said that reverting from synthetic to Chevron regular oil actually stopped an oil drip within 1,500 miles in his car :eek:. Has anyone experienced the same?
 

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Travis, I may be this very soon. What do you mean, have an assistant lightly tap on the stater? Looks like I'll have to have someone from work come over, my dogs are terrible mechanics.
 

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Get a socket and a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. Set in such a way that when you activate the starter, it will loosen the bolt. Remove the fuel pump fuse, and *very briefly* activate the starter.
 

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Can too much oil blow a seal? Apparently yes.

On December 28 2016, I took my 05 Alrima to change the oil outside of the dealer shop for the first time. Thinking that I was giving a treat to my car, I allowed Walmart to put synthetic Castrol 5W30 in it. From that time, I drove the car a couple of times and left town for a couple of days in another car. I came to town yesterday, and drove the Alrima today 01/24/17. As I pulled under my carport, I noticed a large puddle of oil. Under hood there was evidence of oil leak either from the timing chain cover or a seal on top of the cover. The dipstick is totally dry :(. Could this be caused by overfilling or by the change from regular to synthetic oil?

Another forum member (Uhoh) said that reverting from synthetic to Chevron regular oil actually stopped an oil drip within 1,500 miles in his car :eek:. Has anyone experienced the same?
This regular vs synthetic oil thing has been generally disproved. the synthetic has an additive so the oil seals don't dry out.
replace the seal ASAP and move on.
Good luck....
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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9,767 Posts
Get a socket and a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. Set in such a way that when you activate the starter, it will loosen the bolt. Remove the fuel pump fuse, and *very briefly* activate the starter.
Many times that will work, but I have seen starter housings crack from doing that.
 
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