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Discussion Starter #1
A common problem with the GA16DE engine is a leaking front seal. The symptoms are:

- Oil in the area of the belts and other parts of the passenger side of the engine.
- Ol level low, but no puddles/drips.

Here is the procedure from the Factory Service Manual



- The Engine under cover is the plastic cover bolted to the underside of the engine.
- The front of the car should be put on jack stands, and the passenger-side front wheel removed. The RH engine side cover is behind the passenger-side wheel. Remove the clips. If the clip is smooth, pry it out with a screwdriver. If it has a Phillips screw in the middle, remove the screw and then pry the clip put with a screwdriver.
- The drive belt removal is shown below.
- The crankshaft pulley (the bottom pulley you took the belts off of) is removed by loosening and removing the bolt in the center. The bolt is on tight and is most easily removed with an impact wrench. If you have a standard trans, you can put it in 4-th gear and have a friend stand on the brakes while you try to remove it with a socket and breaker bar. If you have an auto trans, this method will not work. Once the bolt off, grab the pulley with both hands and try to work it off. Sometimes this works. If not, use a puller. (you can rent one for a returnable deposit from an auto parts place).
- You can remove the seal with a screwdriver, as shown. Be careful not to scratch the surface on the engine where the seal is installed. If it is scratched, it may leak.
- The suitable tool used to install the seal can be a large socket (a piece of hard wood will work). The important part is to keep the seal square and not damage it when installing it. Install it flush with the block, not any deeper.
- There is a keyway and key (half-moon shaped piece of metal that fits in the keyway) on the crankshaft. Examine the key for burrs and dress it with a pattern file if there are any. (Clean and oil it afterwards.) Set the key in the keyway with the front slightly lower than the rear so the pulley won't push it out when installed.
- The crank pulley has a slot which fits over the key. Orient the pulley so it lines up with the keyway and slide it on. It should go on easily, don't force it.
- Tighten the bolt to 97-112 lbs-ft with a torque wrench.
- Re-install the belts and shields (line up the holes and push the clips in).

Engine Accessory Belts
 

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Slashie
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Is there a sneaky way of removing the crank pully bolt without an impact wrench or a standard transmission? Just so you know, i haven't searched this one well. I did read a post about using a screwdriver to hold the pully in place while you turn the bolt, but I have the aluminum UR pully and I don't want to damage it.

I just thought it would be good to have in this sticky.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
stevja1 said:
Is there a sneaky way of removing the crank pully bolt without an impact wrench or a standard transmission? Just so you know, i haven't searched this one well. I did read a post about using a screwdriver to hold the pully in place while you turn the bolt, but I have the aluminum UR pully and I don't want to damage it.

I just thought it would be good to have in this sticky.
You can try a Hand Impact Driver. It can take 1/2" sockets. You hit it with a hammer.

Lew
 

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Slashie
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lshadoff said:
You can try a Hand Impact Driver. It can take 1/2" sockets. You hit it with a hammer.

Lew
This Hand Impact Driver looks pretty cool.

I actually broke down and bought some air tools for $50 dollars and got the seal replaced. I'd say it was worth it. Now I can buzz the lug nuts right off my wheels. :)
 

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What is Seven Ten for?
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my car WAS doing this, but they overfilled my oil when they changed it and blew the seal, so they got to fix it for me :cheers:
 

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Haha I beat the crap out of one of those impact drivers for about half an hour trying to break mine loose and the sonofabitch wouldn't budge. I ended up saying screw it and putting everything back together.

Afterwards I read something that I wish I had thought of. I read somewhere that the crank turns the right way that you can pull the fuel pump fuse and start the car, then let it die. Then take everything apart, put a wrench on the pulley nut & brace the wrench against something that won't move. Then go and essentially "try to start" the car. When the starter motor turns the crank, it'll break the nut loose.
 

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THINK BLUE
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BikerFry said:
Haha I beat the crap out of one of those impact drivers for about half an hour trying to break mine loose and the sonofabitch wouldn't budge. I ended up saying screw it and putting everything back together.

Afterwards I read something that I wish I had thought of. I read somewhere that the crank turns the right way that you can pull the fuel pump fuse and start the car, then let it die. Then take everything apart, put a wrench on the pulley nut & brace the wrench against something that won't move. Then go and essentially "try to start" the car. When the starter motor turns the crank, it'll break the nut loose.
A friend of mine that is a mechanic suggested I do this too. I have an auto tranny, and no power tools. He told me to get a breaker bar with the correct socket and place it on the nut with the breaker bar resting against the ground. Then turn the key for a sec, long enough for the engine to turn, but not enough to start it. Taking out the fuel pump fuse would be a good idea to prevent the car from starting. I have yet to try it, but this would be the way to go for me....
 

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My Way - pls, read!

I did this repair by myself in March. At the end of the winter car was dripping a quart of oil every week , and estimate was for 200-250$.

The way I did it is VERY DIFFERENT from what's in the book! I'm not a mechanic and I don't have the right tools, so here my shortcuts:

1)No need to loosen the belt "tighteneres" - it's all but impossible to get to them. I gradually slipped the belts from the pulley by rotating it.

2)One needs no impact wrenc! The way to get that 27mm nut loose is the following: put a socket wrench on it, prop that wrench against lower front arm, and ask an assistant to LIGHTLY TAP ON THE STATER! Nut gets loose instantly.

3)One need no tweezers - sharp pliers work fine, you have to scrap the old gasket from the cover.

4)Do not align new gasket with the groove of the old one! I put mine slightly in front. This way, leakproof is assured.

5)Tighten the nut with wrench and a hammer

6)Put the belt back on the pulley like a chain on a bicycle - gradually slipping them on by rotating the pulley.

Since than, not a single drop of oil; belts are OK as well

Hope it helps. If you have questions, ask.

Rgrdz, Travis
 

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Travis, I may be this very soon. What do you mean, have an assistant lightly tap on the stater? Looks like I'll have to have someone from work come over, my dogs are terrible mechanics.
 

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Avtomat Kalashnikov
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xbrandonx said:
my car WAS doing this, but they overfilled my oil when they changed it and blew the seal, so they got to fix it for me :cheers:
Wait a minute, you mean the oil seal can be damaged if there's too much engine oil?Coz somehow my dipstick shows that the oil is about an inch higher than the stated maximum level.

Yeah, i cleaned the dipstick when i removed it and put it back again to get an accurate reading.
Engine was cooled down and oil reading was taken 4 hours later
 

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Slashie
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Exalta said:
Wait a minute, you mean the oil seal can be damaged if there's too much engine oil?Coz somehow my dipstick shows that the oil is about an inch higher than the stated maximum level.

Yeah, i cleaned the dipstick when i removed it and put it back again to get an accurate reading.
Engine was cooled down and oil reading was taken 4 hours later
Yeah... too much oil will blow your seals. In extreame cases, it may blow your head gasket, and start mixing with your coolant. I accidentially put 4 quarts of oil in my engine, and thought I'd be fine, but I think it actually led to my front main seal breaking. It's easy to fix. You just unscrew the oil thing under your car and let a little over a cup of oil out and you'll be fine.
 

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A big thanks to everyone who's posted tips on this thread. I was able to replace my front seal in 2 hours using just a basic socket set and a breaker bar. The "pull the fuel pump fuse, disassemble and use the engine to spin the bolt out" trick works great. I had resigned myself to either adding oil every week or paying big $ at a dealer. Thank You!
 

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this pics are from the b13 our b14 users manual ?

because i have only the b14´s users manual and im reaseaching for the b13's.
 

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New to the forum....

hello, I'm new to this forum. I moved over from http://www.maxima.org

I own two 94 Sentras, both have the 1.6L engine. one is a 5-speed XE model with 142,000 miles that I've had for almost a year. the other one is a Limited Edition model with 210,000 miles, automatic tranny, that I've had for about two weeks. they are both the same color and identical in appearance. both run strong and run the NGK Platinum plugs.

the old one (XE) has a front seal issue that I'm about to fix. also, the bearings rattle. I've done a front seal on my old 88 maxima when I replaced the timing belt. I lose about a quart to 1.5 quarts per week and the oil leaks onto the belts, causing them to slip and squeal. the belts also carry it into the alternator, so since this leak started, I've gone through 2 alternators.

I have a FSM that I got used about a week ago.

Dan
 

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i went to autozone to get a price on a new seal and they said something like 40$ i was like wtf??? i know thats now right, so what should i ask them for when i go in there? is there a technical term the product has other than Front Seal? and how much is it?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
slow200 said:
i went to autozone to get a price on a new seal and they said something like 40$ i was like wtf??? i know thats now right, so what should i ask them for when i go in there? is there a technical term the product has other than Front Seal? and how much is it?
It is part No. A8060-45174 Front Crankshaft Seal, $8.73 from the Nissan Dealer

Lew
 
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