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I'm going to be replacing my clutch this weekend if everything manages to go well. I've never done this before, so I am looking for any suggestions that you all might have. Is there anything I should keep an eye out for while I am doing this? I've seen stuff before on sentra.net and I'm going to go back and re-read it all. TIA!
 

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When you go to put the transaxle back in, make sure the engine is supported [at the rear of the oil pan] perfectly level, so all of the rear trans mounts line up properly. Otherwise you'll be pushing on that sucker forever, and getting frustrated.
 

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Your electrical friend
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When I did mine in the XE, I found that even after all the bolts were out, the tranny held tight because of two alignment pins. So you might have to put a wedge in on one side while you work the other loose and back and forth like that. The tranny's really light, so you don't need a tranny jack, almost anything will do. Make sure you put the new clutch disc in, in the right direction, easiest way to tell, is note which side of the disc has more of the springs on it when you take the old one out. You'd have to try to put it in backward though, it really only fits one way, with the springs having more offset on the side that you'll see through the PP. Drain the tranny before you pull the shafts out, you'll have less mess to clean up. If you've never taken shafts out before, buy a nice pickle fork to pop the lower ball joints loose, or just smack the lower control arm with a mallet near the joint, that works as well. You disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm as well, so you don't have to fight against it to get the lower joint out of the spindle. Then just swing the spindle away enough that you can slide the shaft out of the spindle first, then pull it out of the tranny. Use a large screwdriver or pry bar to pop the shaft out of the tranny. To make electical connector hookup easier when you're done, because you'll be tired by that point, you might consider writing numbers on masking tape and putting in on each half of the connectors, 1 connects to 1, 2 connects to 2, etc. Instead of trying to get the clutch cable off of that big ass bracket where it adjusts, I just removed that bracket. It helps to have a 24" extension to get the backside motor mount bolts out. And be sure to draw a little map of the engine to tranny bolt locations because they're not the same lengths and you can waste a lot of time trying to ge the right ones back where they're supposed to go. Also, grease the shit out of the throwout bearing and the lever that the throwout bearing connects to. I cleaned the inside of the housing out with brake cleaner. I really cleaned the shaft of that lever out good and filled that lower hole where it sets with grease and then pushed in back down in. Spend the extra money for full synthetic grease, it's only a few bucks for a can of it. I also put in full synthetic tranny grease as well. I couldn't beleive how much clutch pressure I used to have and now, the gas pedal has more pressure than the clutch. You can depress the clutch with your pinky practically. If your cv boots are split, just put in new shafts while they're out, new boots won't last. Plus the shafts are only like $60 each after core at Auto Zone. Ok, now I'm getting long winded. It's time consuming but really pretty easy and you'll save yourself about $200. Good luck.
 

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Wow, outstanding write up, toolapcfan. I'm sure members receiving this info. are grateful for the time you spent writing it. I think it's really a nice gesture, to have so many people donate thier time to help others. I do it when I can. That said, I just had one comment about this sentence: "buy a nice pickle fork to pop the lower ball joints loose, or just smack the lower control arm with a mallet near the joint, that works as well." I disagree with using a pickle fork. They destroy the ball joint boots. I have seen this so many times, and it makes me nuts. The ball joints are sealed units, and you can't grease them, so it's important not to damage the boots. Your other suggestion is definately the way to go, use a small sledge hammer or a big heavy ball peen, but smack the forged steel spindle [with the steering cranked all the way to one side], not the stamped steel control arm [which might get dented or bent]. Thanks again :)
 

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Your electrical friend
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Thanks, I try to do my bes tto help and enjoy doing it. Besides, GA16 guys get a bad rap from SE-R guys, and having been on both sides of that, I have a soft spot for them. I agree about the smacking of the lower control arm. I'd only do that If I'd had the joints loose previously that year. I did my shafts about two months before I did my clutch, and to get the lower joints loose the first time I did just like you said, cranked the wheel all the way one way, pulled the shaft out as far as I could after I'd loosened the bal joint nut as far as I could, and I layed a 3/8" breaker bar vertically onto the nut. Smacked it with a maul and it worked well since you can't get a good smack on the thing with the shaft still in place. Something else that I know remember, when putting the ball joints back in, they wanted to spin when I tried to tighten the nut, so I put the floor jack under the ball joint and lifted up until the car was almost off the jack stand, so all the weight as on that joint. It didn't spin anymore and I was able to get the nut on far enough to put the pin back in.
 

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Destroyer of Engines
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This is a bit off topic, but I changed of my axles last weeks and I used a pickle fork to loosen the lower ball joint. Sure enough I tore the seal on the ball joint.
Is it true that you have to replace the entire control arm to replace the ball joint? I would imagine it is since I think you need a special tool to remove/put the ball joints in.
If I do need to replace the entire control arm, does anyone know how much this costs?
 

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aminidab said:
This is a bit off topic, but I changed of my axles last weeks and I used a pickle fork to loosen the lower ball joint. Sure enough I tore the seal on the ball joint.
Is it true that you have to replace the entire control arm to replace the ball joint? I would imagine it is since I think you need a special tool to remove/put the ball joints in.
If I do need to replace the entire control arm, does anyone know how much this costs?
I agree....good information... exactly what these forums were design to do....
 
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This should help you all a bit. Instead of taking the ball-joint assembly apart, you can just slide the halfshaft right out . Just take out the two strut bolts, and then turn the wheel the opposite direction of the side your working on. This gives you plenty of room to slide the shaft right out. Plus, you don't have to worry about breaking that damn rubber seal on the ball-joint. Trust me, this works.
 
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Sorry, that is the only way I've heard of replacing the ball-joint

woooohooo! 2 posts!;)
 

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paulb said:
This should help you all a bit. Instead of taking the ball-joint assembly apart, you can just slide the halfshaft right out . Just take out the two strut bolts, and then turn the wheel the opposite direction of the side your working on. This gives you plenty of room to slide the shaft right out. Plus, you don't have to worry about breaking that damn rubber seal on the ball-joint. Trust me, this works.
good info thats the way i always do it, disconecting the balljoint from the steering nuckle is a real bitch some times!
 

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By the by, at the shop I used to work at I used to get a lot of cars in with torn C/V boots, and we would sweet talk the customer into replacing the whole axle (which was actually cheaper with the core than replacing just the boot, including labor), but anyway I'm getting off track.. we would usually try to sell them in pairs, and I was told never to remove both axles at the same time as there was a piece inside the transmission that was suspended inside it and ends of the axles inside the tranny held it in place, and to keep it suspended there you had to leave one axle in the tranny case while you replace the other one, and if you removed both at the same time the piece would drop into the bottom of the tranny case and one would have to crack open the case and put it back. Is this true? If so, is it true on all transmissions?
 

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Sorry I am going off subject again (lol).

Question about clutch installation...

I encountered a few problems while installing a new clutch... I installed a new Exedy clutch/pressure plate/t.o.b. and just finished the job. For some reason, the pedal feels a hell of a lot softer than before. At first when I put the cable back on there was some play, even with the thumb screw tightened to its fullest. We found a way to 'rig' it and get it to where there was no more play, but still the clutch pedal is still soft. Is it supposed to feel this soft? And if not, what could be some possible problems? The clutch seems to grab somewhat better but engages earlier (about a little past half-way up on the pedal) as opposed to the way it was with the original clutch (which engaged close to the top). Would anyone have an idea? I would appreciate any help!
 

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UnderDog said:
By the by, at the shop I used to work at I used to get a lot of cars in with torn C/V boots, and we would sweet talk the customer into replacing the whole axle (which was actually cheaper with the core than replacing just the boot, including labor), but anyway I'm getting off track.. we would usually try to sell them in pairs, and I was told never to remove both axles at the same time as there was a piece inside the transmission that was suspended inside it and ends of the axles inside the tranny held it in place, and to keep it suspended there you had to leave one axle in the tranny case while you replace the other one, and if you removed both at the same time the piece would drop into the bottom of the tranny case and one would have to crack open the case and put it back. Is this true? If so, is it true on all transmissions?
I hope not every time I do more than one axle the tranny is just siting there. I never had to do this.
 

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I suppose I was misinformed. Maybe it's only certain trannies or older trannies perhaps.
 
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