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thatoneguywiththatonecar
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127 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well damn, if it's not one thing it's another. I replaced my rear pads today with Axxis metal masters. No problems with the job. I hop in the car and start heading to hooters, and while on the freeway I smell burning. I get out and the rear driver side brake assembly is smoking, bad. So I drive home (never made it to hooters damnit) let it cool, and pull it apart. It looks fine so I put it back together and go for a drive. When I get home I jack up the car and sure as shit it's sticking.

Anybody got any ideas? I replaced both sides the same way and only the drivers side is fubar!
 

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b15 pimp daddy
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158 Posts
ok here are the 3 main questions asking...


#1 did you tighten the caliper all the way back down to the surface as indicated in the instructions?? there is like a couple cm play on the caliper itself so that it releases.. could very well be to tight on the pads..

#2 did you check your pins and shims... making sure they are also not cuasing any issues?

and #3 tell me you had your rotors resurfaced before throwing ont the pads..

im me if you need to..
 

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SR20DEe said:
and #3 tell me you had your rotors resurfaced before throwing ont the pads..
Why in less the rotors were warped there is no need.

There is no reason the pins should have been removed either if he was just replacing the pads.

John Paul. Try removing the pads and backing off the cylinder some more and reinstalling. Btw, how did you move the cylinder back... Its a twist and push in case you didn't know.
 

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thatoneguywiththatonecar
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127 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
david said:


Why in less the rotors were warped there is no need.

There is no reason the pins should have been removed either if he was just replacing the pads.

John Paul. Try removing the pads and backing off the cylinder some more and reinstalling. Btw, how did you move the cylinder back... Its a twist and push in case you didn't know.
Ok well it seems to be all better now! I used a pair of needle nose to twist and push the cylinder. I just ininstalled and reinstalled about 3 times and now they are fine.
 

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b15 pimp daddy
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158 Posts
david said:


Why in less the rotors were warped there is no need.

There is no reason the pins should have been removed either if he was just replacing the pads.

i live inside my haynes book ;)

resurfacing the rotor would have definately not fix his problem..
but for 10 bucks a rotor would definately be worth doing while your down there. gets rid of (if any) glazing ect and ensures proper pad wear in.. Ive had to learn this the hard way :(

the pins i checked as precuasion.. (like i say i live in my haynes book ) made sure they lubricated correctly.
 

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ex-Super *********
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1,410 Posts
Well if ya want to hear a tech's(not just me all the guys at my shop) opinion on resurfacing rotors. On car with such small brakes that cant handle heat well new, resufacing them is kinda a waste. One you have them cut they end up being even worse at handleing heat. When we cut small car rotors(such as imports)at the customers request, we find that they are back sooner(because of warpage)the they would have been if we had put new rotors on(even cheap ones). On big stuff(we are a GMC dealer), the rotors have so much "meat" that even after cutting them they can go quite a long time with out being touched again.
 
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