I got my Greddy oil filter block today. I must say it is a nice looking unit. I ordered it from www.nipponpower.com cost me about $65 with out shipping. The part number I got was 12002734 and it is "Type C" this is the one that fits the GA and its 3/4-16UNF filter thread. If you get one make sure it is this one. You do not want to get the SR20DE one becasue I think their filters are 20mm. The one I have will also fit Toyota's.
Good news:
3 ports, 1 M12X??, 2 1/8"BSPT
Simple and effective(KISS)
Small, about 3cm thick and about 8cm at its widest point
Bad news:
I was told the ports were 1/8"NPT just like my Autometer senders. Instead they seem to be 1/8"BSPT.
Can not use OEM GA filter becasue the gasket does not seem to have much to seal on. Will need filter with bigger(diameter)gasket.
Ok so, I was a little miffed about the port size. No worries though as I just happen to have a 1/8"NPT tap. I retapped the holes with no problem and the senders fit great. There was not even a need to drill.
I like the idea of 3 ports, 2(1.8"NPT) for gauges and 1(M12X??) for possible oil-to-turbo.
Here are the pics. If you have any questions, just ask
Note: that is a temp sender sticking out of it in the second pic. I would not suggest using that port for a temp sender as it "shrouds" the sender. Use the one on the side instead(first pic)
If you go to greddy's website you will see that it says to use a filter from a toyota corilla sr5......It also looks like you could run oil lines to a turbo using the larger ports.
I know what size to use(I stated that above), but I dont want to use like a wix or anything like that. Maybe Mobile one.. I have not decided yet.
One thing I am thinking of is: http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm
oh, BTW since you already have somewhat of a setup already for the PSI and temp, not to mention the whole relocation setup. how do you plan on setting this up. Are you going to plug it into your existing setup, or are you going to replace the setup with this block?
How would you get the oil back from the turbo?Mine came about 2-3 weeks ago but I still haven't put it on.See my oil temp sender is the 1/2 size and my pressure sender is the 1/8 size, but I have plenty of unused adaptors. Just a sugestion but what do you think about a stand alone oiling system for a turbo?{pump, feed and return lines with a oil cooler,and its own resivor}
Oh thats how they tap into the oiling system.I have been wondering about that for some time.I,ve scaned through but never read how or were they tap it at.Well I now the out or feed line comes from the oil pressure switch in conjunction with a adaptor.In that case PatScottAKA99xe has a really good Idea.KISS rule all the way!.So you could use the two ports for gauges{I think I got a reducer or two that would work for my temp sender} save the one big one for the turbo option down the road and do a simple drill and tap to attach a fitting and voila' instant oiling system for a turbo.I think the hardest part would be removing the oil pan and cleaing out whatever shavings fell into it.3hrs. top on that.That gives plenty of room for what ever pops up unexpected.thoughs exshuast bolts can be a pain with out a impact,a nd the oil pan gasket only gives you about 15min to reinstall after its been applied.
I havent had time to put this in yet, looks like tuesday will be the day. I am completely removing the old system so that I can KISS(Keep It Simple Stupid). I have had a lil trouble with the lines I have now. They are too long and with out keeping an eye on them they can get cut by the powersteering puley. I have them secured, but why take that chance. I am also going to keep the old setup because it contains most of the parts needed to build an oil cooler system(If ever needed). All of my senders are electrical. If you look at the old setup(on my site), you can see them. The sender in these pics is one of the elctrical temp senders. The psi sender is quite a bit bigger and I have run braided stainless line from the current psi port to the sender(which is remote mounted). I plan on running the new system the same way(remote mounted psi sender) because I do not want the sender to hang from its threads(its pretty heavy) and to isolate it from engine vibrations.
SXSENIS - If you want to tap your oil pan the correct way this is what you should do. Get everything out of the way so that the oil pan can be quickly removed and replaced. Pull the pan off(after draining oil). Cut a hole for a threaded "bung". weld that bung in. Clean everything up. Apply the new gasket. Slap the pan on and bolt it up. Then you can reattach everything else. Then just screw in your return line.
BTW, I use high-temp/high-psi TFE teflon thread sealer on all of my threaded connections.
Yea last yr I had a oil leak and replaced the front oil seal and oil pan seal. I had to move the brace ;support the engine & tranny{used a jack and block of wood on the trans},and disconect the down pipe{from the cat to the flex coupler}.A welded bung would be less likely to leak, and you wouldn't need to tap it{simple plug and play}Good lookin out.Thanks for the tip.
nice part i was thinking about using one of those, but im just using the good ol "T" fittings for the pressure sender and feed to the turbo.
good thing that u tapped it, those BSPT fittings are hard to find i just TIG welded a bung in my pan for my return line, i will take pics so u guys can c what everyone is talking about.
and when u weld the pan, make sure its really clean/prepared well...a little bit of oil or grease will screw up ur bead. if u find it difficult when welding the bung to the pan, use silica bronze rod as a welding material...it'll make welding a little easier.
The se-r turbo{200 sx} in npm. They got some sort of super Tee adaptor for their senders.I still think the greddy peice will be easier to install.Anyway I wanted to know were they got it from?
Its still pretty neat.And the pic of the bottom end, I really didn't notice were they were talking about tapping for there return line.
I've never used that type of rod before{still kinda new to welding}I was thinking of using super flux{works on all types of metal,good for welding 2 diff. types}.Pics are always nice they help alot.
I have a quesition: What exactly does this do, and what are the advantages to having the GReddy oil filter block. I just ordered some 2" oil pressure and temp gauges and seen this but am confused as to what it does.
I have a quesition: What exactly does this do, and what are the advantages to having the GReddy oil filter block. I just ordered some 2" oil pressure and temp gauges and seen this but am confused as to what it does.
It seems more effective to just install a part that screws in somewhere in the factory oil sending system with no hassle than drilling holes in your block to accomplish the same task. I don't know why more people don't use that part, or why it wasn't invented a long time ago.
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